You have a cool complexion and should wear cool, blue-based colors to keep your skin and complexion looking healthy.
Colors to Avoid
Because you have a cool complexion, you will want to avoid warm, gold-based colors as they will make you appear jaundiced and older. You can still wear tans and browns, but they should be cooler, grey-based shades.
There are a few colors pictured above that overlap between the warm and cool spectrum. They are fine to wear. Remember also that these are guidelines and not definitive rules.
You have a large build and should wear medium and large patterns to keep things in proportion. Small patterns will make you look freakishly huge instead of simply large.
Know the rules of visual pattern effect:
Vertical lines give you more visual height.
Horizontal lines give you more visual width.
Checks and boxes give you more visual heft.
With your body type you will want to focus primarily on vertical stripes, followed by boxes and checks. You should avoid horizontal stripes, not because they add weight but because they’ll make you look boxier than you are.
Because you have a muted contrast, you will want to avoid color-based patterns and stick with tonal patterns. An example of color-based patterns is a blue stripe on a white background, whereas a tonal pattern would be a dark-blue stripe on a light-blue background. If you do buy clothing with color-based patterns, make sure the contrast is not too stark as it will wash out your face.
Your frame will be more complemented in a single-breasted suit as opposed to a double breast. The double breast requires a different build to be able to properly flatter the man wearing it.
With your single-breasted jackets, you should stick to either a one or two-button option. You do not have the required height/size ratio necessary to be flattered in a three-button jacket and it will visually shorten you. The bottom button of your jacket should always be left undone.
You can opt to have a single vent or dual vents in your jackets. Single vents are more casual and American and should be worn in blazers, sport coats, and business suits. Dual vents are more formal and European and should be worn in business and formal suits. Vents should always be worn in your jackets as they allow the jacket body to properly drape over your hips and prevent the jacket from bunching up when you are seated. With either vent option, your jackets should always be long enough to cover your rear.
The area in which most men struggle in proper suit fitting is the shoulders. Most men will buy a suit that is too large in the shoulders or one with pads that are too thick. Both of these will have the same visual effect of your suiting wearing you instead of you wearing your suit.
Your suits should be tailored to follow the natural lines of your body without restricting any movement. If your suit is baggy enough that it is impossible or difficult to tell what your natural build is beneath it, you will need to size down or have it brought in. If your suit is tight enough that it constricts your motion or there is visible pull in areas like the buttons and the seams, you need to size up to be able to get a proper fit. Slim suits are flattering on all body types while tight or baggy suits flatter no man. This applies to the body of the jacket, the fit of the shoulders, and the width of the sleeves.
You should stick with large lapels. This is anywhere between three and a half and four and a half inches. Anything smaller than that will make your head look too small for your body. Anything larger and your shoulders will disappear.
You can wear both peak and notch lapels and should follow the rules of formality. Peak lapels are more formal and notch lapels are more casual.
Tie width should roughly correspond with lapel width as its size will have the same visual effect as your jacket lapels.
The ideal length of your tie will place its tip between the top and bottom of your belt. Any longer and your legs will appear too long for your torso. Any shorter and you will have the opposite effect. Either way, it will throw off your proportions and be visually distracting.
There are three key areas to getting a good fit with a dress shirt:
The collar width
The sleeve length
As long as these three areas fit you properly, you will be able to alter or tailor almost anything else. If you cannot find off-the-rack shirts that fit in these three areas, it is worth investing in custom shirts. Online retailers like Indochino, and Paul Fredrick can create fully customizable shirts for around the same price you’d pay for something from Polo or J Crew. If you do stick with off-the-rack options, make sure the shirt body and sleeves are tailored to follow your natural lines without pulling or restricting movement. Shirts are like suits in that no one is flattered by those that are too tight or too baggy.
You have a broad, square face that needs to be framed with a longer, narrower collar. A spread collar will accentuate the broadness of your face and make it look fat instead of large. Another flattering option for you will be a pin collar. The pin will bring the collar points in and down to help narrow your face.
With your casual button-up shirts you want to make sure you always undo the top two buttons instead of just one. Along with this you do not want to wear crewneck undershirts. The reason for this is that showing that bit of extra skin and having the collar propped appropriately will help frame your face. With one button undone or a crewneck on, people will look at your throat instead of your face.
For this same reason you will want to opt for V-necks, henleys, and polos for casual shirts. The henleys and polos should be unbuttoned to show off the right amount of skin to frame your face.
You can wear both pleated and flat-front pants. However, pleated pants need to be worn at the natural waist, instead of the hips, in order to drape properly and look flattering. Most men can’t commit to wearing their pants that high and should avoid pleated pants unless they can. Even in your flat-front pants, you should get used to wearing them on your hips instead of beneath them. This is more flattering because it evens up your leg/torso proportions and it prevents you from looking like you dropped a load in your trousers.
Your pants should be tailored to fit you the same as your suits and shirts – follow the natural lines of your body without pulling or restricting movement. This means you will want to find pants that have a bit of a taper or pay a tailor to taper them so they thin out below the knee. The idea of slim-cut pants applies to your shorts as well. Baggy shorts will make you look boyish and like you have chicken legs.
Because of your height/size ratio you will have the freedom to either opt in or out of having cuffs sewn into your dress pants. This visually anchors your legs and will make them appear just a bit shorter but also larger and more substantial. You can also roll your jeans if you’d like to.
Your pants should have a moderate or slight break. Having no break will make your legs appear too long. However, too much break will visually ruin the slimness of tailored trousers and will also make it look like your suit doesn’t fit.
Because you have a strong, square jaw, you will want to wear round or ovular glasses for some balance. Wearing geometric, or tear-drop lenses will over-exaggerate the hard lines of your face and make you appear robotic.