You have a stark contrast and should wear colors of a medium to high intensity to properly frame your face. You should also focus on colors that have a complementary or triadic relationship to each other on the color wheel.
You have a warm complexion and should wear warm, gold-based colors to keep your skin and complexion looking healthy.
Colors to Avoid
Because you have a warm complexion, you will want to avoid cool, blue-based colors as they will wash you out and make you appear older. Avoiding blue-based colors does not mean you should avoid blue itself as it’s a nearly universally flattering color.
There are a few colors pictured above that overlap between the warm and cool spectrum. They are fine to wear. Remember also that these are guidelines and not definitive rules.
You have a small build and should wear small and medium patterns to help give you some extra visual size. Large patterns will overpower you and make you appear smaller than you really are.
Know the rules of visual pattern effect:
Vertical lines give you more visual height.
Horizontal lines give you more visual width.
Checks and boxes give you more visual heft.
With your build, you will want to focus primarily on vertical stripes, followed by boxes and checks. You should avoid horizontal stripes, not because of the added visual weight, but because they will cut you into segments – making you appear shorter.
Because you have a stark contrast, you should focus primarily on color-based patterns. An example of this is a blue stripe against a white background. Tonal patterns (light blue on dark blue) won’t provide the contrast you need.
You can wear both single and double-breasted suits. However, a double-breasted jacket is more fashion forward and requires more care in tailoring so this option should only be explored after you have a solid rotation of single-breasted suits in your closet.
With your single-breasted jackets, you can wear a one-button, two-button or a three/two-roll option. You do not have the necessary height/size ratio to be flattered in a traditional, three-button jacket as the jacket will cover too much of your chest. With any button configuration, the bottom button should always be left undone.
You can opt to have a single vent or dual vents in your jackets. Single vents are more casual and American and should be worn in blazers, sport coats, and business suits. Dual vents are more formal and European and should be worn in business and formal suits. Vents should always be worn in your jackets as they allow the jacket body to properly drape over your hips and prevent the jacket from bunching up when you are seated. With either vent option, your jackets should always be long enough to cover your rear.
The area in which most men struggle in proper suit fitting is the shoulders. Most men will buy a suit that is too large in the shoulders or one with pads that are too thick. Both of these will have the same visual effect of your suiting wearing you instead of you wearing your suit.
Your suits should be tailored to follow the natural lines of your body without restricting any movement. If your suit is baggy enough that it is impossible or difficult to tell what your natural build is beneath it, you will need to size down or have it brought in. If your suit is tight enough that it constricts your motion or there is visible pull in areas like the buttons and the seams, you need to size up to be able to get a proper fit. Slim suits are flattering on all body types while tight or baggy suits flatter no man. This applies to the body of the jacket, the fit of the shoulders, and the width of the sleeves.
You should stick primarily with medium-sized lapels. This is anywhere between three and three and a half inches. Anything smaller than that can make your head look too small for your body. Anything larger can make your shoulders disappear.
You can wear both peak and notch lapels and should follow the rules of formality. Peak lapels are more formal and notch lapels are more business and casual.
Tie width should roughly correspond with lapel width as its size will have the same visual effect as your jacket lapels.
The ideal length of your tie will place its tip between the top and bottom of your belt. Any longer and your legs will appear too long for your torso. Any shorter and you will have the opposite effect. Either way, it will throw off your proportions and be visually distracting.
There are three key areas to getting a good fit with a dress shirt:
The collar width
The sleeve length
As long as these three areas fit you properly, you will be able to alter or tailor almost anything else. If you cannot find off-the-rack shirts that fit in these three areas, it is worth investing in custom shirts. Online retailers like Indochino, and Paul Fredrick can create fully customizable shirts for around the same price you’d pay for something from Polo or J Crew. If you do stick with off-the-rack options, make sure the shirt body and sleeves are tailored to follow your natural lines without pulling or restricting movement. Shirts are like suits in that no one is flattered by those that are too tight or too baggy.
You have an oval face and are lucky to be able to wear most collar types. You will just want to avoid extremes like 70’s points or British Cutaways. The ideal middle ground is either a medium point or a semi spread.
With your casual button-up shirts you want to make sure you always undo the top two buttons instead of just one. Along with this you do not want to wear crewneck undershirts. The reason for this is that showing that bit of extra skin and having the collar propped appropriately will help frame your face. With one button undone or a crewneck on, people will look at your throat instead of your face.
For this same reason you will want to opt for V-necks, henleys, and polos for casual shirts. The henleys and polos should be unbuttoned to show off the right amount of skin to frame your face.
You can wear both pleated and flat-front pants. However, pleated pants need to be worn at the natural waist, instead of the hips, in order to drape properly and look flattering. Most men can’t commit to wearing their pants that high and should avoid pleated pants unless they can. Even in your flat-front pants, you should get used to wearing them on your hips instead of beneath them. This is more flattering because it evens up your leg/torso proportions and it prevents you from looking like you dropped a load in your trousers.
Your pants should be tailored to fit you the same as your suits and shirts – follow the natural lines of your body without pulling or restricting movement. This means you will want to find pants that have a bit of a taper or pay a tailor to taper them so they thin out below the knee. The idea of slim-cut pants applies to your shorts as well. Baggy shorts will make you look boyish and like you have chicken legs.
Because of your height/size ratio you will have the freedom to either opt in or out of having cuffs sewn into your dress pants. This visually anchors your legs and will make them appear just a bit shorter but also larger and more substantial. You can also roll your jeans if you’d like to.
Your pants should have a slight break or not break at all. This will visually lengthen your legs and help you appear taller. Too much break will make you appear shorter, ruin the slimness of tailored trousers, and make it look like your suit doesn’t fit.
Because you have a sharp jaw and pronounced cheekbones, you will want to wear round or ovular glasses for some balance. Wearing geometric, or tear-drop lenses will over-exaggerate the hard lines of your face and make you appear robotic.