From a scene in the movie.

PS. For updates and insights follow me on Twitter.

Read the intro to the series here.

The Rugged Man is one who is physically masculine. He bends nature to his will by means of his brute force and has a cave-man attitude that brooks no nonsense. There is nothing subtle about the rugged man and everything in his life exists for a specific, direct purpose. He is the adventurer, the mountain man, the gladiator, and the blue-collar worker.

Throughout almost every age of man, the rugged archetype has been a necessary and crucial form of masculinity. Without the infrastructure and technology we have available to us today, individual men were required to physically, forcefully, and violently bend nature to their will in order to provide for themselves and their families.

If you wanted a home, you built one; if you wanted meat, you killed it; if something threatened you, you dealt with it. There were other men for you to rely on, but the vast majority of your place in the world was carved out by you and you alone.

All men, by virtue of our biological makeup, have this element of rugged masculinity within us. Even the basement dwelling gamer has it, he simply satisfies it through virtual substitutes as opposed to real-world activities. The Rugged Man is why shows like Man vs Wild and Survivor Man fair so well. It is why football and other contact sports are so popular. It is why Everest was climbed and men skydive from the fringes of space.

The Style

A rugged style is defined by complete versatility. From a Danger and Play perspective there is all danger and no play. A Rugged Man’s clothing never sacrifices function for form, even if the function is a bit more subtle than what is readily apparent. His clothing:

• Allows for full body movement and range of motion – nothing too tight.
• Shows off his physical stature making him a more imposing foe – nothing too baggy.
• Is made of materials and weaves that can withstand daily abuse and nature’s defenses – denim, leather, tweed, and rough weaves.
• Has no excess for display or show – no excessive frills or embellishments

The Tricks

Focus on traditional clothing. Because we live in a world where the Rugged Man is not as necessary as he once was, clothing has not changed as drastically. For inspiration try to find old photos of men from the turn of the century. Don’t focus on their suits or city clothing so much as their work clothes. Most likely they will consist of jeans; cotton or tweed trousers; waffle-knit henleys; flannel shirts; wool stocking caps; heavy wool coats and jackets; leather belts, suspenders, and boots; and simple, natural colors with little-to-no patterns.

Look for military-inspired clothing. Things like field jackets, trench coats, earth-toned colors, and functions like epaulets or flapped pockets all originate with the military and give off a Rugged impression.

Look also for hunting-inspired clothing. Traditional hunting patterns like buffalo plaids, gun-club checks, and others are all rare these days and have a visual link to their heritage. Similar to military clothing, hunting gear was functional and the clothing had extra reinforcement in seams, close-able pockets (and more pockets), and thicker materials.

Don’t worry about wrinkles. Rugged clothing is casual and not appropriate for dressed-up events. This also means some of the preparations necessary for dressed up events are unnecessary  now. A pressed shirt isn’t any more functional than a wrinkled one – it just looks better. Therefore, your appearance will be more Rugged by allowing the natural wrinkles their place.

Embrace frayed edges and minor damage. These are work clothes, they don’t need to be perfect. A frayed cuff or collar gives Rugged clothing some character.

When there is major damage, patch over it or repair it rather than replacing the garment.

Shop at stores like LL Bean, Sierra Trading Post, and Duluth Trading Co. They cater to outdoors activities and traditional makes.

The Risks

More than any other type of clothing, the Rugged wardrobe has been co-opted by limp-wristed sissy boys gallivanting as men. The term “urban lumberjack” is on the rise for a reason. A generation of boys who grew up with the idea of masculinity being a bad thing are at odds with their own natures and the world they grew up in. Rather than embracing the virtues of true masculinity, they trick themselves into believing they’re men simply by dressing in a traditional manner. This frees them up to continue to act in any way but a masculine one and they can call out their manhood if it is ever questioned.

Because this is on the rise, you will be accused of being an urban lumberjack if you embrace the Rugged style too heavily. This can be mitigated by lifting heavy things and building your physique; actually participating in traditionally masculine activities like hunting, working on vehicles, and blue-collar work; having the body language that comes from knowing you are capable of being a physical threat to those around you; and being consistent with the same brook-no-nonsense attitude your clothing indicates.

The Reward

You will be a polarizing force. People will either hate you or love you. Many will call you trendy or hipster while others will see you as genuine. You will intimidate some and earn the respect of others. You will be physically imposing. People will joke with you less, socialize with you less, but depend on you more.

Below is a gallery of photos showcasing different elements of Rugged Style. Not every man in every shot is going to epitomize masculinity but all of them have elements of a Rugged Style.

Remember that Rugged, Refined, and Rakish styles are not all polarizing. You are free to incorporate an element of any or all three of this into your style as you learn to adequately express exactly who and what you are as a man.

PS. For updates and insights follow me on Twitter.

UPDATE: The bag I was sent was the Safari as the Sahara only has one internal compartment. The FHT website is currently showing both as out of stock, but Matt has said they will be getting more in within the next couple of days.

For some reason finding a suitable every-day bag is difficult for us as men. We’re too old for backpacks, too masculine for totes, but we still need something that will look sharp, carry our gear, and stand up to some abuse. Essentially we need a bag that comfortably sits in both the rugged and refined camps.

The resurgence of menswear has led to a similar expansion in all things style related for men. While there are companies out there who make the ideal bag, paying upwards of $500 is a bit much for a lot of us.

Thankfully there’s a company who can offer a quality product at about half the price.

I first heard of Far Horizon Traders on Style Forum. The reviews were all favorable in both how the bags look and how they hold up. I reached out to the company to learn more and had a great time getting to know the owner.

Matt is a world traveller who has spent a lot of time in Central and South America. During one of his adventures he purchased an old, weather-worn saddle from an antique shop. Knowing the condition it was in, he took it across the street to a humble leather worker. A day later he had a perfect replacement along with a satchel waiting for him. Now, a full decade later, he has expanded and is selling his hand-made goods from artisans all over the subcontinent

Matt sent me over the Sahara a couple of months ago to try out and I’ve loved this thing. My situation covers both extremes. I work in a refined environment that requires a certain aesthetic. However, on my off time, I have my fair share of casual days and needed a bag that can withstand a bit of abuse. The Sahara has filled both of these requirements perfectly.

It comes with two main, interior compartments. The larger and closer to the back can be closed with a zipper (the only movable part) and is the ideal place to keep anything large that you want people to keep their hands off of (laptop, iPad, etc.). The second compartment has a few interior pockets for things like pens, your sunglasses, and other small items that can get lost in a completely open bag.

The back has a small sleeve that is ideal for magazines, a paper, or a portfolio, and each side of the bag has another small, exterior pocket for any extras you need to access quickly.

The Sahara also has an attached handle to carry like a briefcase and a large, thick detachable strap for when you need to throw it over your shoulder.

The first thing I noticed when I got this bag was how thick all the leather is. This is not some dainty, fused leather concoction that will rip apart the first time you take it out of city limits. That being said, the cleanliness of the shape and the warm coloring of the tan leather make it classic and clean enough that you can take it with you to the office. You’ll want something more streamlined for when you’re in the big city meeting with the higher-ups. But this beauty will be great for the daily grind.

Since I’ve had it I’ve taken it with me on trips out of state, to work every day, and now that we’re in spring, on quite a few motorcycle rides. The detachable strap has been a lifesaver here. For years I’ve been stuck with straps that either didn’t adjust or just slid along D rings. Since this strap is punched and works like a belt, it means I can set the length exactly where I want it and not worry about it getting longer because I have more weight in the bag. It seems like such a small improvement, but not having the bag fall over the side of the bike as I’m taking a corner makes my rides both more enjoyable and safer.

There’s only one thing I would change and that is the prominence of the logo on the covering flap. Thankfully it’s just branded in, and the longer I’ve owned the bag the more it’s faded. It just detracts from the overall cleanliness of the look.

All in all I can 100% recommend one of these bags. It works just as well in the office, a weekend in the city, or a road trip and will just get more character as it ages and you put it through its paces. The Sahara sells for $250 but FHT has other options that start below $200 and are made of the same leather with same attention to detail.

PS. For updates and insights follow me on Twitter.

One of the most common complaints I see about my site on online forums or other areas on the web is that what I advocate is too hipster. Oddly enough, these accusations will usually come from men (or their women) past their mid 30′s who are still content to wear a T-shirt, cargo shorts, and flip-flops. I get that someone who has taken no real concern for his style is going to see everyone who dresses with care as a hipster – even if the accusation couldn’t be further from the truth.

In my Danger and Play series I spoke on the differences in attitude between dressing with an element of danger and dressing with an element of play. These two can be mixed and matched to accomplish certain effects and the same man can wear both styles on different days to drastically change the physical impression he gives.

That being said, the distinctions between styles can still be taken a step further.

If you think about the apex, alpha male that most men aspire to be, there are a few different categories under which those men fall.

The Rugged Man is one who is physically masculine. He bends nature to his will by means of his brute force and has a cave-man attitude that brooks no nonsense. There is nothing subtle about the rugged man and everything in his life exists for a specific, direct purpose. He is the adventurer, the mountain man, the gladiator, and the blue-collar worker.

The Refined Man is one who is financially and influentially masculine. He bends the world of men to his will by means of his connections, his money, and his political/social power. He is capable of mixing both direct and subtle elements to accomplish his ends and has so much clout that he very rarely has to adapt to situations going out of his control (because they never do). He is the titan of industry, the politician, the hedge fund manager, and the 1%.

The Rake is a man who is socially masculine. He influences individual people to his will by means of his attitude, his charisma, and his disdain for following the rules of society and being beholden to another man. While he is capable of using direct elements to accomplish his goals, he lives largely in a subtle world and is always thinking two or three steps ahead of the people around him. He is constantly adapting to new situations and thrives in his ability to do so. He is the playboy, the rock star, the outlaw, and the vigilante.

Any individual man can embody any or all of these different types of the alpha male. Take Teddy Roosevelt as an example. The man was the epitome of a Rugged man. He was physically tough and imposing, even completing a speech after he’d been shot. At the same time, he was a refined man who knew how to dress in a way that met his station as president of the United States. He did not attend meetings or address the nation in his work clothes but did so in a well-fitting suit that fit the styles of the times.

Depending on what kind of man you are, you can build your wardrobe to better communicate it. There are elements of danger and play in all three of these men and the following posts in this series will break down each type of man and how to dress accordingly.

PS. For updates and insights follow me on Twitter.

PS. For updates and insights follow me on Twitter.

Good question from a good reader.

I recently purchased some nice dress socks to help my transition to a more masculine me…the only issue is they seem to only have two sizes of socks. The socks that fit shoe sizes 6-12 is the size i fall into since I wear size 9.5-10.

Now that is fine and dandy, but when I put the socks on, the formed heal of the sock always ends up clear up at the top of my ankle. To me this looks a little sloppier than my faded ugly socks. Can you do a post of shopping for, selecting, and wearing dress socks to help us clueless men out there that don’t know what to do in this situation?

Thank you,
Tyler (a clueless man)

What Tyler’s talking about here is a fairly common, albeit small problem. It’s much more noticeable when the heel cap of your sock is very different from the rest of the body, but still obnoxious when you notice any difference.

There are basically two approaches to solving this problem. The first is to immerse yourself into the world of luxury men’s hosiery. There are companies (Zimmerli) that will offer cashmere socks to specific foot measurements. However be prepared to pay the price; they’re not anywhere near cheap.

The second option is much more preferable – change the way you put your socks on. Since Tyler asked about dress socks, I’m going to assume he meant anything over the calf or at least mid-calf as ankle socks are inappropriate for business situations. 99.9% of men will put on their socks the same way – grab the opening with both ends, insert foot into opening, and pull sock all the way up as high as it goes. It’s simple, efficient, and keeps the top part of the sock over the calf preventing it from falling down throughout the day. However, even if your foot is the perfect size for your one-size-fits-all socks, by having the stretch begin at the toe cap and continue all the way to the top of the calf, you’re bound to have the heel cap stick out of the shoe.

The best alternative is to split that two-part process in half. When you first put on your socks, only pull them on as far as covering your foot. From there, you can either simply step on the ground or put on your shoe and then pull the upper half of the sock up and over your calf. By having the stretch start at the heel instead of the toe, you’re able to keep the heel cap in place and hidden inside your shoe.

This process is easier with over-the-calf socks than their mid-calf brethren. Most of us know intuitively that the higher the sock sits on our calves, the more likely it is to stay in place. Since mid-calf socks don’t sit as high, you will have to overcompensate by having the stretch begin from the toes.

From a comfort perspective this does take some getting used to at first. The lower half of your sock won’t be stretched as tightly over your feet and will feel a bit baggy until you get used to it. Just remember that you’ve trained yourself to recognize that stretched feeling as normal when it really isn’t.

PS. For updates and insights follow me on Twitter.

A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to sit down with Chris Holifield who runs a great and growing podcast called I Am Salt Lake. In it, he features people who make Salt Lake unique and are doing things to help the local culture grow and expand. It’s worth checking out his archives.

Last night he posted up our conversation. What started out as a typical interview about Masculine Style and men’s clothing turned into a fun conversation about masculinity and different philosophies behind it. Check out the whole thing here.

PS. For updates and insights follow me on Twitter.

Although we’re on the tail end of winter, a scarf is a three-season article of clothing – fall, winter, and spring. In fact, dressing well in the spring is really determined by the ability to dress in layers. So a scarf can help keep you adequately warm when you’re outside in your blazer instead of a full winter coat.

Depending on how you wear it, a scarf can be ornamental, warm your chest, or warm your neck – and all three have equal merit. Scarves have been worn by men for thousands of years and have served functions in the upper echelons of society, the military, the poor man trying to feed his family, and everyone else in between.

The key to wearing a scarf in a masculine way is to do so with an appropriate fabric. For example, a silk scarf with your casual clothing is going to look extremely effeminate and foppish. However, that same scarf paired with a three-piece suit and a business-appropriate top coat is going to provide some great contrast between sheen and flatness helping you look wealthy and sophisticated.

Take that same outfit and add a heavier wool scarf and things will start to be a little bland. However, that same wool scarf thrown on with a pair of jeans, chukkas, and a bomber jacket will look like you’re ready to brave the elements as a one-man army.

While there are many different types of scarves out there, for our intents and purposes we’re going to keep it simple. Your scarves should be a rectangular piece of fabric anywhere from six to 14 inches wide and 50 to 90 inches long. Both the length and weave will determine which knots you can tie as longer scarves allow for more elaborate knots and those that of a heavier material and wider knit will require something more simple.

Depending on the need, there are myriad ways to tie a scarf. We’ll go over some of the basics so you have a full arsenal of options at your disposal.

The Drape

This is as easy as it gets. You put the scarf around your neck and let both ends drape in front of you. You can choose to place the ends inside or out of your jacket or coat as you please. Obviously this “knot” is going to be more ornamental than functional.

Over the Shoulder

This is the second of the more ornamental knots. Because you have one tail in front and another in the back it provides the most opportunity for others to see the scarf itself. This is a knot you’ll see a lot in magazines and photos as a result, but it’s actually kind of a pain to keep in place.

You start with a Drape over the center of your neck with one tail longer then the other. From there, take the longer tail across your neck in the front, and throw it over the opposite shoulder. It’s simple to do and, because there’s no actual not, you need a long and heavy enough scarf to keep the back tail behind you.

Ascot

Also one of the more classic and simple knot options – the ascot is made by tying your scarf around your neck just like you do when you start to tie your shoes. You have the freedom to choose how high or low you want the knot with a higher placement being more functional for warmth and also looking a bit more dressed up. A lower knot is more ornamental and casual.

European Knot

This is my personal go-to. It does require a scarf that’s a bit longer as you’re effectively cutting the length in half with this particular fold. The benefit is that this is still a stylish option that shows off a lot of the body of the scarf, but the knot itself hugs closely around the neck keeping it nice and warm.

This is tied by folding the scarf in half and then laying it around your neck. This will leave the two tails on one shoulder and an open loop on the other.

From there you simply place the two tails into the open loop in the center of your chest and pull them through. Like the Ascot, you can leave it as loose or tight as you want.

Once Around

This knot provides the same amount of function as the European Knot but keeps everything up around your neck. It’s also possible with a shorter scarf than what the European knot needs.

You start with a Drape but have one tail significantly longer than the other. Take the longer tail, cross it around the front of your neck like you’re making an Over-the-Shoulder knot. However, rather than letting the longer tail drape across your back, you continue bringing it around up and over the original shoulder.

Like other actual knots, this can be done as loosely or as tightly as you like.

Twice Around

This requires a seriously long scarf. It gives a lot of extra bulk around the neck for some serious warmth. Depending on the scarf material you use, an in-your-face knot like this can appear either extremely casual or extremely luxurious.

It is made by following the same steps as the Once Around. However, after completing the first full loop around your neck, you loop the long tail again, meaning you have a full two and a half loops of scarf around your neck.

Having a few different knot options up your sleeve gives you some visual variety for when you only have one or two scarves in your rotation.

When buying a scarf, it’s important to remember that the majority of these are made for women. You want to avoid any colors that are too glamorous or effeminate, excessive fringing, anything that requires a scarf pin, and prints that are too girly. You can still wear louder colors, but you’ll want to stick with patterns like university stripes and thicker materials to keep a masculine appearance.

PS. I’m on Facebook and you damn well better Like it.

I’ve seen a few of these elaborate tie knots making the rounds over the last couple of weeks. At first it was just on Pinterest – which is largely women just posting up pictures of how they wish their men would dress – so I wasn’t too worried about these actually catching on.

But more and more I’m seeing other men and bloggers giving these their best attempt. Gaudy knots are ridiculous. There is nothing more classic or conservative than a tie and trying to modernize it with a new, crazy knot is going to make you look more like you attend cosplay events than live in the real world with the rest of us.

Gaudy knots are like bluetooth headpieces – nope, those actually can serve a purpose, they’re like cell phone belt clips, they’re a retarded attempt to look like you’re a modern business man when you really just look like a monkey.

PS. I’m on Facebook and you damn well better Like it.