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Month: April 2012

High/Low: Blue Collar Edition

1
25 April, 2012

A common complaint I hear from blue-collar men is how dressing up is so antithetical to what they have to wear all day long. Nothing is more form over function than what a welder or construction worker wears to work. And since these men wear the same thing day in and day out, it becomes a part of them and is truly comfortable. I’ve seen men with more swagger in a greasy mechanic’s outfit than some kid dressed to the nines in his new suit.

My suggestion is, rather than abandoning the ethos of what you do all day, you should embrace it. If you’re going out for a weekend or are in any social situation, take the time to dress a little better but still acknowledge what kind of man you are and what you do.

blue-collar style

If you work in the outdoors, keep the Ranger-issued aviators, wide-brimmed hat and work boots like the man above.

If you work in a shop, keep your greasy sneakers on to contrast with the dark jeans and blazer you’re wearing.

I’ve seen farm hands who use their work gloves when they’re on a motorcycle instead of having bike-specific gloves.

Just make sure you don’t overstep it. I don’t recommend wearing a tool belt or a hard hat on your off time. You don’t want to look like a crappy attempt at “channeling the masculine” on some designer’s runway.

Clothing blue collar style, contrast style, High Low Mens Style, high low principle

Wednesday Weigh In

10
25 April, 2012

I got a lot of good responses from the post I did asking you guys to critique a certain man’s style. In learning to dress well it’s good to be able to analyze what you do and don’t like in particular rather than just embracing or writing off something as a whole.

So, I’m going to try to do a post like that once a week.

the sartorialist all black

Tell me what you think men.

Clothing all black no socks, mens slicked back hair, stylish grey beard

Beard Infographic

4
25 April, 2012

A beard is a tough thing to pull off in our current climate. It’s seen by authority figures and anyone in the Baby Boomer generation or older as rebellious, sloppy, and lazy. Amongst the younger set, anything longer than a half an inch or so is immediately perceived as hipster and faux-masculine. A long beard on a 20 year old is akin to his $450 painted axe he bought for his reclaimed-wood dinner table in his $2200 a month loft in Brooklyn his parents pay for.

But the rumblings of a return to real masculinity are picking up steam and with that, I believe we’ll see a return to the beard’s credibility. It won’t be worn in irony or as a desperate attempt to have some semblance of testosterone, but instead will be accepted as a man embracing his own masculinity.

In the meantime, here’s an interesting infographic about the history of beards and what they’ve meant at different times and in different cultures.

Lifestyle Beard Infographic, Credible Beard, Professional Beard

Military Weekender

1
24 April, 2012

Can’t argue with the masculinity communicated with a travel bag like this.

Lifestyle Force Protector Gear Bag, Military Weekend Bag

Ditch the Socks

13
24 April, 2012

One of the best things about warm weather is the decrease in clothing. I love it from a visual perspective on the opposite sex and also my own comfort perspective.

We all know the guy who breaks out the shorts and flip-flops as soon as the temperature gets above 40. I hate that guy. He looks retarded. But, I can sympathize because I’m wont to ditch my socks as soon as I’m able to. There’s something so comfortable about it and it just feels like Spring and Summer.

One note on this, going sockless in situations that aren’t traditionally accepted – the beach, the tropics, etc. is acceptable now but it’s more of fashion thing then long-lastingly stylish. I have a feeling in ten years we’ll look back on the current sockless craze for men and think it’s silly. Whatever, I like it anyway.

Believe it or not, there is a right way and a wrong way to go without socks.

sockless business suits

The first thing is to know when it is and isn’t appropriate. It’s not appropriate if you work in a conservative environment – especially one that deals with customers on a daily basis. The banker, insurance salesman, and lawyer shouldn’t be going sockless in their suits. It’s a casual look and you don’t want it to affect your credibility with your clientelle. Basically, if you represent someone other than yourself and that someone is in a trusted and respected position in the community, don’t go sockless.

middle-aged sockless look

That being said, if you work in an environment where you wear a suit everyday but you represent or yourself or are high enough in the food chain that you call the shots, do it. It’s a power play.

I don’t wear socks to church as soon as the weather gets warm but would look down on a missionary who did the same. I represent me when I’m at church, he represents the Church. That’s the difference.

Other than that, really any time you can think of is going to mostly be appropriate. I’ve even gone sockless to more casual weddings and have gotten compliments on how it contributed to my look. You can do it with jeans and chucks, shorts and boat shoes, really anything you want. In fact, having a pair of jeans, no socks, and a pair of dress shoes is one of my favorite High/Low staples.

On top of doing it from a style standpoint, you have to worry about it from a practical standpoint. You are a man and you will sweat. Your feet will get sweaty. They will get even more sweaty if they’re encased in leather without anything to absorb that sweat. And when that sweat festers it stinks.

There are basically three options for avoiding all the sweat and stink that comes with going sockless.

No-Show Socks

These can be both good and bad depending on what route you take. The basic premise of these is that they’re socks that hit below the ankles. Most look like this.

The problem with these is that they’ll still show if you’re wearing shoes with any kind of opening. Loafers, boat shoes, driving shoes, all of these will still get you a peek of the sock. It looks worse than doing nothing at all.

The other alternative is to go even lower like these

I hate these things. They look too feminine. Sure another person will never see them but what if you have to take off your shoes when you have these on? You might as well hand over your man card as soon as these things are spotted. I don’t recommend them.

Powders

Powders have been helping men fight sweat in other places for years.

The concept is simple, you sprinkle a little bit in your shoes and the powder absorbs the sweat. Gold Bond is the most recommended. I’ve never had to go this route because I live in a desert. The lack of humidity means I don’t have as much of an uphill battle win it comes to sweat combat.

Cotton Insoles

These are what I use. They’re the easiest, most comfortable and effective.

At $8 a pop they’re relatively cheap and will last forever if you take care of them. Pop these guys in your shoes and wash them periodically. Periodically is determined by your climate and how much you personally sweat. I can get away with about once a month.

Not only do these absorb sweat and odor, they’re very comfortable. In fact, I keep them in year round and still wear them when I have socks on.

Going without socks takes some getting used to. The first day or two you do it you might rub the skin on the back of your ankles raw. It happens to me every spring. Just give them a day or two off and, after they’ve healed up, they’ll be resilient for the rest of the year and you won’t feel anything.

Clothing Aldo cotton insoles, guide to going sockless, No-show socks for men, sockless men

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