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Author: Tanner

Tanner is the founder and primary author of Masculine Style. He lives in Salt Lake City, Utah with his wife and two kids, and helps run Beckett & Robb - a men's clothing company built around custom suits and shirts.

Dressing the (Larger)Man

3
2 October, 2012

Contrary to what you see in men’s magazines and on your girlfriend’s Pinterest page, not all men are either rail thin or built like an Olympic gymnast. Furthermore, while this is the goal for many, there are a lot of men who take pride in their overall heftiness. For those men, and those who don’t necessarily feel great about carrying around the extra pounds, it can be difficult to find clothes that fit well and in a flattering way.

When most people think of larger men, unfortunately they think of this:

Thankfully, it’s nowhere near impossible to dress well as a big guy – even if it is a bit more difficult. Here are a few basic guidelines to get you going.

  • The first thing is to embrace the fact that you’re larger. Work out and start lifting but accept that you’re a bigger man. Being a relatively-small guy myself, I can tell you that larger men are physically dominating and intimidating. Keep this already-existing masculine frame in mind as it can be attractive to women and command more respect from other men.
  • Next is to have everything either custom-made or tailored to fit you properly. Don’t make the mistake of believing a larger body is flattered by baggy clothing. You can still wear slim-fitting, well-tailored clothes to keep you looking sharp and well put together. Any excess fabric will make you look sloppy and this is especially punishing on a bigger guy.
  • Stick with two-button jackets and suit coats and opt for a lower stance as this creates a deeper V shape with your lapels and will draw people’s eyes towards your face. You want the button to sit directly on your belly instead of on top or beneath it. This will slim you down a bit without detracting from your overall size and strength. Remember to keep that jacket buttoned unless you’re sitting down.
  • Don’t untuck your button-up shirts. This is another big-guy fallacy and it’s a costly one. Think of a circus tent – that’s what it looks like.
  • Wear flat-front pants. Yes you can still wear pleated pants but they’re in that in-between stage of looking like grandpa or being extremely fashion forward. Flat front pants can still fit and flatter you well and they’ll look current without being trendy.
  • Wear a pocket square. It draws the eye upwards and away from your belly.
  • Opt for angled hip pockets in your jackets. These also draw the eye upward and can visually slim you while keeping people focused on your face.
  • Vertical stripes in larger options like a bengal or butcher stripe shirts and a chalk stripe suit are your best friend.
  • Go with peak lapels. They give more visual heft to your shoulders and help make you look stronger and larger overall instead of just in the gut.
  • Avoid skinny ties and skinny lapels. They don’t slim you down, they accentuate your size and make you look larger. That doesn’t mean you need to wear massive, five-inch ties from the 70’s, but don’t look for skinny stuff either.
  • Look for shorter collars. Guys with more weight in their face and neck often feel choked by a normal collar height. A shorter collar will look flattering without feeling like a noose.
  • Try suspenders. A belt will visually cut you in half – which adds more visual weight. A belt will also force you to either wear your pants beneath your gut – which makes your legs look like a stuffed sausage, or above it – which makes you look like an old man. Suspenders keep your pants where they should be and mean you don’t have to cinch them up because they’re being carried by your shoulders.
  • Go with slim or straight-cut jeans and chinos. Loose and relaxed fits are sloppy.
  • Wear shoes with a substantial sole. They still need to be nicely-rounded toes made of a quality leather, but a heavier sole will help anchor your overall look. There isn’t much dainty about you and your shoes shouldn’t be either.
  • Keep your hair short and well-groomed. If you wear facial hair, keep it nice and trimmed as well.

Like it or not, you have one, very significant assumption you have to fight against – the belief that large men are large because they’re lazy and sloppy. Even if this is true, you’re reading this site and wanting to dress better because you’re improving yourself. The best advice I can offer to big guys is to always dress one step above the situation. This means you show up to Sunday dinner with your family in a button-up shirt with either a sweater or a blazer. No one should see you in a T-shirt unless you are performing some serious manual labor.

Follow the guidelines above and you can go from a Big Lebowski look to something much more classic and flattering, even if you don’t opt for a three-piece suit all the time.

PS. Don’t forget to head over to my Facebook page, Like it, and leave a comment telling me who your style idol is to be entered to win either a Basic Consultation or five Style Evaluations.

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Clothing, Dressing the (___) Man stylish fat men, stylish large men, well-dress fat men, well-dressed large men

Not-So-Masculine Style: Hug Coat

4
1 October, 2012

Terrifying.

PS. Have you gotten your Style Evaluation? It’s a great way to know the strengths and weaknesses of your current wardrobe.

Clothing bad mens fashion, Bad Peacocking

Casual Friday: Boots and All

6
28 September, 2012

boots and all

Like:

  • The jacket. That olive-green has military roots and it makes a casual jacket like this  look very masculine. And yes, you can “pop” the collar of your outerwear as it’s designed to sit up against your neck to keep you warm.
  • The sweater. A crew neck dresses this whole look down and gives it the right High/Low look he wants. A V-neck would still be good, but it would dress it up more.
  • The bag. A more streamlined or classy weekender doesn’t fit with jeans and boots. You need a canvas or nylon duffel like this.
  • The boots. One of the best things about fall and winter is the embrace of substantial footwear. I like keeping things slim on my feet during the warmer months, but you need some physical and visual weight on your feet in the winter.

Fence:

  • The colors. They’re all really good for his complexion, but he needs something with a bit more contrast. The bag helps provide that, but you don’t want to carry that around all the time to get the right contrast to keep people focused on your face instead of your clothes.
  • The jeans. The color is awesome and I like slimmer jeans. However, these look a bit too skinny with boots on. It helps that he has them cuffed, but if they were an inch wider in the legs they’d be perfect. That same visual weight you want in your boots in the winter also applies to your jeans and cords.

Don’t Like:

  • The beard. Dainty chin straps usually look too urban or too metrosexual. Neither one of those is appropriate for the rugged vibe the rest of his outfit puts off. Most white guys can’t pull off the chin strap anyway. He would look much better if he let his cheeks grow in and still kept it all trim.

PS. Have you gotten your Style Evaluation? It’s a great way to know the strengths and weaknesses of your current wardrobe.

 

Clothing High Low Mens Style, Men's Style, menswear, military style, rugged men's style

The Dinosaur Vote

1
28 September, 2012

 

Makes about as much sense as any other special-interest group we continue to cater to. Except dinosaurs are cooler than feminists.

PS. Have you gotten your Style Evaluation? It’s a great way to know the strengths and weaknesses of your current wardrobe.

Brooks Brothers

Musings

Wednesday Weigh In: Sweater and Shorts

8
26 September, 2012

sweater and shorts

PS. Have you gotten your Style Evaluation? It’s a great way to know the strengths and weaknesses of your current wardrobe.

Clothing High Low Mens Style

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