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Author: Tanner

Tanner is the founder and primary author of Masculine Style. He lives in Salt Lake City, Utah with his wife and two kids, and helps run Beckett & Robb - a men's clothing company built around custom suits and shirts.

Beckett & Robb

11
31 January, 2013

For the last seven years I have worked for the largest credit union in Utah. I started out as a teller right when I got home from my LDS mission and planned on only working with the company for a year or so. However, they were great about schedules, the hours were predictable, and the benefits were nice so I stuck with it while I went to school. Now, three years after graduating with a near-worthless degree I’m finally moving on to bigger and better things.

Here in Salt Lake we have an awesome custom suit company named Beckett & Robb. They’ve been around since 2009 and just opened up a San Francisco store a couple of months ago. They are expanding and doing a lot of great things to make custom menswear available at department store prices. Without going too much into detail, it involves the proper sourcing of materials and manufacturing along with being able to make a more modest profit on each suit than most other luxury brands. What this means is you can get a suit that would cost you $3k at the shop down the street for $1.5k from these guys. Their model is also scalable and they’re planning on taking over the US and then the world within the next couple of years.

Over the last few months I’ve had the opportunity to get to know Jason, one of the partners. I was in the shop last month working on sourcing some suits for a client from one of my consultations when he asked me what I was still doing at the credit union. We talked for a while about where I currently am and what my goals are and then decided it would be mutually beneficial for me to come work their Salt Lake storefront and help them better develop their online and social media presence.

So, on this upcoming Tuesday I’ll be working with B&R full time. I couldn’t be more excited about the company and the position they’re poised to take in the menswear world. I also couldn’t be more excited to be getting involved with them early on and helping the company grow and expand.

What does this mean for Masculine Style and my consulting services? Hopefully just more growth. Beckett & Robb and Masculine Style are not competitive or mutually exclusive entities. Because I stand by the mission and quality of Beckett & Robb I’m excited to have a new source to whom I can send my clients looking for higher-quality suits. At the same time, I’m excited to be able to help Beckett & Robb clients expand beyond simply improving the suit aspect of their wardrobes and being able to make connections that will help Masculine Style become more and more prominent, both locally and online.

The only down side I can project initially is that I will have a lot less down time than I do currently. This means my posting schedule may lag a bit. I’ve done my best to give you guys an update every weekday for the last year and a half and have done pretty well. However, with my having less time available to me, it may prove to be worth it to scale back on quantity while scaling up on post quality. I’m going to have a lot of new resources at my disposal and that means better posts in the future.

If you’re one of my Salt Lake readers, come see me next week or in the future. B&R is located at 150 S Main Street and I’ll be there Tuesday-Saturday each week.

PS. I am now selling ad space on the site. If you are interesting, please get in touch via the contact page and I can give you a break down of what the space is and its price.

B&R_Banner03

Clothing

Wednesday Weigh In: Benched

14
30 January, 2013

thiscouldbeaparty:Mikael. 

PS. I am now selling ad space on the site. If you are interesting, please get in touch via the contact page and I can give you a break down of what the space is and its price.

468x60 Paul Fredrick MenStyle Clearance

Clothing

High Maintenance: Dress Shirts

9
29 January, 2013

If you work a white-collar job your dress shirts may see the most daily use and abuse of any item in your closet. While they may not be worn as often as shoes, they are less resilient and take some serious abuse. Here are a few tips:

Rotation

At minimum you’ll want five shirts. That’s enough that you can wear a new one each day of the work week. From a style perspective it’s better to have ten as it allows you to get a broader spectrum of patterns and colors. However, five is a good start for the average working man.

By having a new shirt for every day you’re able to give them all some time to breathe. Just like your shoes, your shirts need a day off to be able to recuperate from constant contact to your body and exposure to your sweat and natural oils.

Depending on how much or how little you sweat you can get two or three wears out of a shirt – which means you could arguably go two or even three weeks between doing laundry on these. This saves you time and money and also helps keep your shirts lasting longer.

Hanging

Use a wooden hanger (like these). They are wider than wire hangers so it prevents the weight of the shirt from stretching itself out in the shoulders. The cedar can also help keep moths from getting into your wool items in your closet and it also looks better. I’ve found that I take better care of both my clothes and my hangers by using wooden options instead of plastic and wire.

Laundry

I get asked a lot about how often you should wash your shirts. While there is no set rule, it’s better to wash less often than more. Whether it’s dry cleaning, machine washing, or even hand washing – cleaning your clothing speeds up the natural break down of the fibers. It can also affect the vibrancy and the cleanness of the colors. My personal routine is that I only wash my shirts when they stink enough that they need to be. For me this means I can get two, maybe three wears out of each shirt. Some of you will have to wash more and others less.

Remember that dry cleaning can do more damage than other types of washing and should only be done on garments that are dry-clean only. Even then, machine washing on a light cycle on cold and air drying is better for fabric maintenance than periodic dry cleaning.

Ring Around the Collar

Unless you’re new to wearing dress shirts on a daily basis you already know that one of the toughest spots to get clean are the collar and cuffs. These areas see the most skin-to-shirt contact and suffer as a result.

Because these are oil-based stains you want to pre-treat them before throwing your shirts in the wash. The best way to do this is with a heavy-duty stain remover from a company like Shout. For those with lighter stains you can get away with the spray bottle but you with heavier stains will want one that comes with a scrub brush.

If you use the spray bottle you’ll just spray it on the inside of your collar and cuffs before and then rub the fabric together. It doesn’t take a whole lot of effort and you’ll want to remember that breaking stains up is the goal. They won’t be removed until you’ve actually run the shirts through a cycle.

For the heavier stains you’ll rub the brush against the material instead of the shirt against itself. It gives you more leverage and helps manage that meaner muck.

Know also that this can and should be done every other wash or so in your armpits to prevent yellowing stains. Those are a complete pain to get out if they’ve already set in, but prevention makes them much easier to deal with.

Shrinkage

Regardless of whether or not your shirts are sold pre-shrunk, you’re going to see more shrinkage unless you take proper care of them. Heat is what causes cotton to shrink so the best way to prevent it from doing so is washing in cold water and allowing your shirts to air dry.

From personal experience, the hardest thing about air drying is remembering which items need it and which don’t. I recommend doing separate loads of air-dry only clothes so you don’t accidentally throw a shirt in the dryer with your socks and underwear.

Ironing

Yes you need to iron your shirts. Even those that are wrinkle-free or non-iron still look better if they’ve been given a quick run over with the hot metal. It’s pointless to invest time and money into a well-curated wardrobe of things that fit and complement your contrast if the wrinkles make your clothes look sloppy.

No you can’t just iron the part of your shirt that shows up under your jacket. You need to iron the entire thing. You never know when you’ll have to take off your jacket and still keep a clean appearance.

Spot Cleaning

These little stain sticks are one of the best modern inventions ever. You can buy them in packs of three and should keep one in your car, one in your briefcase or office, and one at home. There’s nothing more frustrating than getting a small stain on a freshly cleaned and ironed shirt. Rather than throwing it in the wash and starting the cycle all over again, just treat the spot with one of these sticks.

Replacement

At some point you’re going to have to simply replace your shirts. The easiest way to deal with this is to just accept it. There’s only so much prevention you can do and it’s worth getting more years out of each shirt, but they all need to go to the farm eventually. When your whites are grey, your collar stains never seem to go away, the cuffs or collars are frayed, your colors have faded, you have pit stains, or you start to see threads separating it’s time to simply embrace the fact that you need a new shirt.

Just like your shoes, taking care of your shirts does require a bit of an investment in both time and money. However, in the long run, you’re better off dealing with maintenance and the extended use it provides than having to rebuild your shirt wardrobe every year.

PS. I am now selling ad space on the site. If you are interesting, please get in touch via the contact page and I can give you a break down of what the space is and its price.

NORDSTROM - Shop Men's Activewear

High Maintenance

Straight Bar Lacing

7
28 January, 2013

Yes it’s a style tip – not a pickup one. And, however small or inconsequential it may seem, remember that the details are what can make a look.

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Straight bar lacing is what my shoe on the left has. It’s a cleaner, more simple look that is appropriate for your balmorals, oxfords, and dress boots. The even lines look better and the overall appearance of your shoe is more polished.

The traditional criss-cross lacing on the shoe on the right is better suited to casual shoes like sneakers, bucks, and work boots. I’ve also found that I get better closure on my shoes when they’re laced this way so it makes my casual shoes feel like they’re a bit more secure on my feet.

Remember that this is a tip and not a rule. You can lace your shoes however the hell you want and anyone who’s going to make a judgment call on your character based on your lace patterns is someone you’re better off avoiding anyway. Think of it as  a freebie – it doesn’t cost you anything not to do it, but you get a little something extra if you do.

PS. I am now selling ad space on the site. If you are interesting, please get in touch via the contact page and I can give you a break down of what the space is and its price.

Florsheim

Clothing

Mid-Century Meets DIY

24 January, 2013

pallet chair

All in one cool looking package. I could see a couple of these and a bench in the backyard around the right grill. Then again… these don’t look all that comfortable.

PS. I am now selling ad space on the site. If you are interesting, please get in touch via the contact page and I can give you a break down of what the space is and its price.

Brooks Brothers

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