Dressing the (___) Man

Dressing the (Muscular)Man

30 October, 2012

Contrary to what most guys believe, dressing well is actually harder for muscular men than those with a more average build. While men’s clothing has gotten slimmer to accommodate us skinny guys, those of you with a bit more stature are still forced to choose between clothing that is too short and baggy, or too small and skinny. On top of that, the same things that can work in favor of many men (narrow lapel sizes, pleated pants, small patterns, etc.) will actually look goofy on a muscular guy.

As a result, a lot of body builders will dress like this.

post workout sweat suit

But obviously you can do better than sweat pants and a T-shirt, even if they are the easiest purchases to make that will fit you. Here are some tips:

Accept the fact that you are going to need a tailor and build a relationship with one. There are very few cons to being built the way you are and not having most clothes fit off the rack is a small one. The only difference between you and the rest of us is you have to have a tailor while we are better off if we have one. Look at it as extra motivation.
If you buy off-the-rack suits do so in places that sell them as separates. If you buy a suit from Men’s Warehouse or the suit department at Dillard’s you’re going to run into a major problem. If you have a 46R jacket, it’s most likely going to come with a pair of 36R pants – and you probably wear a 32 instead. Doesn’t matter how good your tailor is, he can’t take your pants in that much. Shopping at places that allow you to buy your jackets and pants separately gives you a lot more workability in your sizing. However, as addressed in a comment below, there will still be fit problems associated with the jacket.
Avoid narrow lapels and ties. These are popular with the revival of all things 60’s style but they will mess up your proportions. Instead of looking well-built, you’ll come across as hulkish or freakishly huge.
Make sure all your pants have little break or no break at all. While you don’t run the risk of having this make you appear scrawny, it does make you look stumpy because it gives the visual appearance of your legs being too short for your pants.
Swap out crew necks for V’s and polos. The opening will give you a little extra room in the chest and help you keep everything else the right size. You don’t want man cleavage, but showing some more skin keeps your face better framed as well.
Look for jeans from brands like Fidelity. They are made specifically for more muscular guys and have extra material in the seat and thighs to compensate for all the squats you do. They’re pricey but worth the investment.
When you find something that does fit well, buy multiples. Even if it’s a $10 T-shirt from H&M. Spend a little extra upfront and buy ten shirts so you’re set.
When buying chinos and dress pants, go with a pair that’s fuller in the leg and then have them altered. Most slim pants are going to be too small for you in the thighs. When I’ve worked with muscular clients in the past, this has been the largest hurdle to get over. Rather than buying slim pants, buy them in a fit that works in the butt and thighs, then have your tailor alter and taper them down from there. You’ll still get the right shape beneath the knee, but it won’t come with puckered pockets or stretched seems.
Go custom when you can. Thankfully the world of online custom clothing is really taking off and it’s getting to the point where you can have a custom shirt made for the same price you’d pay for something from Polo or J Crew.
Avoid shirts that are too tight. The idea of having shirts that drape is currently unpopular among a lot of men. This makes sense for guys who are rail thin because it gives the illusion of filling out your clothing. For you body builders, it ends up looking goofy to have a shirt or pants that look like they’re practically painted on. If a T-shirt or polo fits in the chest, back, and sleeves, it’s ok that it doesn’t perfectly hug your stomach. That little bit of drape actually ends up being flattering because it keeps your clothes from looking too stretched. Too tight is just as bad as too baggy when it comes to gauging proper fit.
Don’t wear gym clothes unless you’re on your way to the gym. Seriously though. I know the Underarmour stuff may fit better than anything else, but it makes you look singular. Let your body speak to your dedication to the gym and your clothing speak to the fact that you’re well-rounded. If all you wear are gym clothes, it looks like you don’t have a life outside of it.
Wear suit jackets with dual vents. The extreme taper from your shoulders to your waist can end up splitting a center vent – which makes your jacket look too small. A dual vent will help prevent the split and keeps things in proportion.
Wear larger patterns in all situations and bolder patterns in casual situations. Patterns that are too small will look wrong on you.
Opt for unstructured sport coats and suit jackets. If there’s any one who doesn’t need artificial shoulder padding, it’s you guys.

Stick with the guidelines above and you’ll be sure to communicate that you’re more than just a gym rat.

daniel craig cardigan

PS. Did you know I do private style consultations? I can help you dress better according to your budget and your needs.

Dressing the (Larger)Man

2 October, 2012

Contrary to what you see in men’s magazines and on your girlfriend’s Pinterest page, not all men are either rail thin or built like an Olympic gymnast. Furthermore, while this is the goal for many, there are a lot of men who take pride in their overall heftiness. For those men, and those who don’t necessarily feel great about carrying around the extra pounds, it can be difficult to find clothes that fit well and in a flattering way.

When most people think of larger men, unfortunately they think of this:

Thankfully, it’s nowhere near impossible to dress well as a big guy – even if it is a bit more difficult. Here are a few basic guidelines to get you going.

The first thing is to embrace the fact that you’re larger. Work out and start lifting but accept that you’re a bigger man. Being a relatively-small guy myself, I can tell you that larger men are physically dominating and intimidating. Keep this already-existing masculine frame in mind as it can be attractive to women and command more respect from other men.
Next is to have everything either custom-made or tailored to fit you properly. Don’t make the mistake of believing a larger body is flattered by baggy clothing. You can still wear slim-fitting, well-tailored clothes to keep you looking sharp and well put together. Any excess fabric will make you look sloppy and this is especially punishing on a bigger guy.
Stick with two-button jackets and suit coats and opt for a lower stance as this creates a deeper V shape with your lapels and will draw people’s eyes towards your face. You want the button to sit directly on your belly instead of on top or beneath it. This will slim you down a bit without detracting from your overall size and strength. Remember to keep that jacket buttoned unless you’re sitting down.
Don’t untuck your button-up shirts. This is another big-guy fallacy and it’s a costly one. Think of a circus tent – that’s what it looks like.
Wear flat-front pants. Yes you can still wear pleated pants but they’re in that in-between stage of looking like grandpa or being extremely fashion forward. Flat front pants can still fit and flatter you well and they’ll look current without being trendy.
Wear a pocket square. It draws the eye upwards and away from your belly.
Opt for angled hip pockets in your jackets. These also draw the eye upward and can visually slim you while keeping people focused on your face.
Vertical stripes in larger options like a bengal or butcher stripe shirts and a chalk stripe suit are your best friend.
Go with peak lapels. They give more visual heft to your shoulders and help make you look stronger and larger overall instead of just in the gut.
Avoid skinny ties and skinny lapels. They don’t slim you down, they accentuate your size and make you look larger. That doesn’t mean you need to wear massive, five-inch ties from the 70’s, but don’t look for skinny stuff either.
Look for shorter collars. Guys with more weight in their face and neck often feel choked by a normal collar height. A shorter collar will look flattering without feeling like a noose.
Try suspenders. A belt will visually cut you in half – which adds more visual weight. A belt will also force you to either wear your pants beneath your gut – which makes your legs look like a stuffed sausage, or above it – which makes you look like an old man. Suspenders keep your pants where they should be and mean you don’t have to cinch them up because they’re being carried by your shoulders.
Go with slim or straight-cut jeans and chinos. Loose and relaxed fits are sloppy.
Wear shoes with a substantial sole. They still need to be nicely-rounded toes made of a quality leather, but a heavier sole will help anchor your overall look. There isn’t much dainty about you and your shoes shouldn’t be either.
Keep your hair short and well-groomed. If you wear facial hair, keep it nice and trimmed as well.

Like it or not, you have one, very significant assumption you have to fight against – the belief that large men are large because they’re lazy and sloppy. Even if this is true, you’re reading this site and wanting to dress better because you’re improving yourself. The best advice I can offer to big guys is to always dress one step above the situation. This means you show up to Sunday dinner with your family in a button-up shirt with either a sweater or a blazer. No one should see you in a T-shirt unless you are performing some serious manual labor.

Follow the guidelines above and you can go from a Big Lebowski look to something much more classic and flattering, even if you don’t opt for a three-piece suit all the time.

PS. Don’t forget to head over to my Facebook page, Like it, and leave a comment telling me who your style idol is to be entered to win either a Basic Consultation or five Style Evaluations.

Dressing the (Smaller)Man

13 September, 2012

As important as proportions and fit are for the average man, their value is amplified for a shorter guy. If you’re short, the rest of your proportions are usually a bit smaller as well. This means the already-too-large off-the-rack clothing that drowns most men will completely obliterate you. Check out this shot from GQ.

The suit above is about three sizes too big, the pants are way too long, the shoulders are too wide, the sleeves are large. This kid just looks awful. There is an added downside to not dressing well for shorter guys in that it makes you look like a child. The image above makes me think of a 16-year-old boy on the way to his first job interview. He didn’t have a suit of his own so he borrowed his dad’s. No man or woman will be able to take you seriously with ill-fitting and child-image-inducing clothing.

Thankfully, there are certain rules and guidelines that apply specifically to smaller men.

The first thing you need to do is embrace the fact that you’re smaller. Our egos don’t like doing this as it makes us feel inadequate but you’re only going to look smaller by not embracing your actual size. If you’re 5′ 8″ or shorter you should be sizing down your suits and jackets to a Short.
Next is having everything either custom-made or tailored to fit you like a glove. This means having the trousers and jacket sleeves brought in to follow the contours of your body. You will want to have your dress shirts tailored the same and even your casual shirts if you can’t find something that fits you correctly. Any excess fabric will exaggerate your stature so you want to get rid of it. That same excess-fabric effect is also why smaller men should always stick with flat-front pants instead of pleated trousers.
Tailoring your clothing is about more than just the bulk of the fabric. It also applies to the length proportions. You will want to have your jackets altered to show a good amount of sleeve cuff. This will visually elongate your arms and make you appear taller. Same goes for having your pants tailored to have a very slight break or no break at all. By making it look like your legs are poking out of your pants, your legs appear longer and will help you look taller and larger overall.
Stick with two-button jackets. A 3/2 roll or a three-button suit will close up too much of your chest and make you appear smaller. For this same reason, your jackets should have a lower button stance.
Wearing peak lapels draws the eyes up and outwards. This will give you more visual height and make your shoulders appear larger.
Having your jacket pockets angled will also draw the viewers eyes upwards to make you appear taller and help frame your face.
Proportion everything down. Smaller men need narrower lapels, slim ties, small shirt collars, even a stubbier tie bar. By sizing everything down, your body appears proportionate with your clothing.

Take a look at the after picture once GQ was done helping this same guy dress according to his build.

Other than throwing on a peak lapel, the men at GQ did everything else on the list to help this guy look better. He now looks like he means business.

The last thing you should focus on if you’re a smaller guy is the size and type of your patterns. Just like excessive fabric, patterns that are too large will accentuate the slightness of your stature. Instead you should be wearing small patterns.

Vertical stripes will give you visual height while boxes and checks will give you visual heft. Both of these are your friends in helping your build appear larger than it is.

Here’s one last example from a recent GQ cover to show how all of this is done right.

Proportions are all good here. Small tie, small collar, small tie bar. The patterns are smaller too. Notice how the buttons on the vest end a lot higher than they do on most waistcoats. This makes his whole torso appear longer and gives him more visual height (it works on a vest instead of a jacket because it ends at his waist and doesn’t affect the proportions between his legs and torso where a higher button stance on a jacket would). Rolling the sleeves makes his arms look longer. Even his hair cut being short on the sides and tight all the way up elongates his face and gives him more visual height. There is nothing short or baggy about this look at all and it’s the perfect example of what to emulate if you’re a smaller man.

The last piece of advice I can offer is to look at the bright side. If you’re shorter you probably have a smaller shoe size – which means those killer Allen Edmonds won’t be sold out in your size when they go on sale. Same goes for that online deal to try to get rid of last season’s inventory from J Crew. By having fewer men to compete with in your size, you’re able to spend less money and look better.

PS. Did you know I do private style consultations? I can help you dress better according to your budget and your needs.

Dressing the (Older)Man

17 July, 2012

Some say that style is for the young. My wife and I were out to dinner this week at a chain, sit-down restaurant and I was appalled at how the men over 40 were dressed. Most had potbellies and were walking around in denim cargo shorts, T-shirts that were two sizes too big, white tube socks pulled up around their calves, and New Balance, Jerry-Seinfeld-style sneakers on. They looked the way you would dress an 8-year-old in the early 90’s.

But the older a man gets, the more ability he has to display the self-respect he’s earned. A lot of younger guys have to fake it until they make it and their clothing is and can be more daring to reflect that. But men who’ve paid their dues have their own sartorial muscles to flex that the younger guys don’t have yet.

The same basic principles of dressing well apply to older men as to the younger – stay in shape, wear clothes that fit but don’t constrict, wear colors that flatter your hair and skin tones, and wear something that is activity appropriate while still looking better than all the other men in the room.

When it comes to fit, most Boomers and Gen Xers make the mistake of thinking slim = gay. That may have been the case twenty and thirty years ago, but it doesn’t apply now. I’m not suggesting you go out and buy a pair of skinny jeans, but you can pull off a pair of straight-legged, dark-washed jeans as well as a guy who’s 17 or 27. Unless you have quite a few pounds to lose, avoid anything that is advertised as “relaxed.” It’s going to be too much material to look good on anyone, and, if you are older and in good or great shape, it’s a complete waste to hide that behind baggy clothing.

You older men also don’t need to think dressing better means dressing younger. There are too many mid-life crises that involve Ed Hardy shirts, spiked hair, and boot-cut jeans. Take a classic pair of straight-legged khakis, a slim-fit oxford-cloth button-down shirt in blue (or hell even in pink), and a blue jacket. Think Brooks Brothers with an updated fit (which they do now btw). Women your age will claw each other’s eyes out to get you and younger women will want you even more.

Embrace your age when it comes to certain things that you can wear and a young guy can’t. I look pretentious in a fedora but a man who’s 50 just looks like he’s in the upper echelon of society. I look ironic or stupid in a mustache but an older man looks dashing. If I wear high-wasted pants – even if they’re what’s the most flattering for my build – I run the risk of looking throwback trendy, but a silver fox can pull them off with panache.

I also suggest embracing your age when it comes to your grooming. Younger women are finding traditional masculinity more and more attractive. I’ve heard my own wife tell me a number of times that she’s excited for me to get grey in my hair or have a salt and pepper beard. Remember that your age conveys a hard-earned wisdom and sense of experience that us younger guys envy and women of all ages want and respect. Don’t try to hide it by altering yourself to look younger. Embrace it. You’ve earned it.

Lastly, it’s ok to embrace a simple trend now and then. It shows you’re still a bit current. You may not want to load up on bracelets and canvas-strapped watches, but you would be well served to add in a cotton, patterned pocket square instead of just a white linen one. You might not want to wear candy-cane-striped socks, but having some in purple or with subtle whale prints is going to show that you’ve earned enough respect you don’t need to take yourself too seriously.

Here are some good cues. You won’t like everything you see here, but it’s good to figure out what you do and don’t like; then embrace what you do and forget what you don’t.

Category: Dressing the (___) Man