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Author: Tanner

Tanner is the founder and primary author of Masculine Style. He lives in Salt Lake City, Utah with his wife and two kids, and helps run Beckett & Robb - a men's clothing company built around custom suits and shirts.

Custom Suiting with Indochino: Part 3

5
18 September, 2013

Read Part 1 and Part 2

Now that it’s been over a year since I received my suit, it’s time to do the third and final part of this series – giving you an idea of how it’s held up over the year.

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This suit saw some pretty hard wear during the first six months it was on rotation. It was common for me to wear this three times a week for more than eight hours a day. However, since April it’s been sitting in my closet. This is not because of any problem with the suit but because I made a career move from finance to the clothing industry and now work for a custom suit company. It should be fairly obvious that I wear my company’s product almost exclusively now.

So this is more like a one year/six month follow-up.

The first thing I want to address is a minor quality issue. I ordered my pants with side adjusters.

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As you can see, the right adjuster is starting to tear at the seam. While this can be construed as a quality issue, it’s also from my wearing the suit hard. I intentionally was overly forceful when cinching up the adjusters to see how much damage they could take. So, unless you’re planning on pulling to the point of damage, you should be fine. That being said, I found the adjusters to be more ornamental than functional and would opt out of them were I to order this suit again.

Knowing that this post was coming up, I decided to wear my Indochino suit to church last week. Because it was unfamiliar to a lot of people there, it got quite a few compliments and comments. No one would have guessed this cost half as much as other suits I have on rotation.

For the sake of a recap, here are some pictures I took this morning high lighting the fit.

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All in all, I would still say this is a great suit and there are very few things I would change from a fit perspective. The chest and the shoulders are maybe a centimeter too large on each side, the cuffs are just a tad short, and the seat on the pants could be brought in more to avoid having it looking too loose and large. Those are all minimal changes though. As you can see from the pictures, the back hangs clean with no rolls or folds, the pitch of the sleeves is clean, and there are no stress marks when the jacket is buttoned up. The pants fit my calves and thighs comfortably and are slim while still allowing movement.

In fact, while under serious scrutiny from the #menswear nerds on sites like Style Forum and Reddit those same criticisms would be made, 99% of people will see nothing but a flattering fit and a modern suit.

Ultimately that’s the point. Men will pay tens of thousands of dollars, wait for months, and stand through multiple fittings  in order to receive a completely bespoke suit. This is the holy grail of fit and cloth. With true bespoke you can compensate for things like sunken shoulders, disproportionate back-to-chest ratios, and other body abnormalities. There’s a reason beyond the simple fabric selection that you invest both the time and money into a suit from a master tailor on Savile Row.

But Indochino has never claimed to be fully bespoke. They are a made-to-measure outfit for men who want a suit that will fit well, look great, and not cost an arm and a leg. Their cloth may not be sourced from the best mills in Italy and England, every stitch may not be added by hand from a tailor who’s earned his golden shears, and they might not be the suits that are sourced and bragged about in the circles of the 1% – but when you’re paying anywhere from $450 to $700, you’d be a fool to expect otherwise.

My experience with Indochino has been that you get more than your bang for your buck. The fit, level of customization, fabric selection, and price point are all spot on for the young man who’s just starting to climb his career ladder. If your price point is below $800 and you are careful in your measurement process, you’ll end up with a great suit that will help you establish yourself as a well-dressed, professional man.

Clothing

Utah Garage Rebuild

3
12 September, 2013

A few months ago I had the pleasure of meeting Spencer Steed through my day job. He ordered a suit for his upcoming wedding and we got along pretty well – especially because he is an avid collector and rebuilder of vintage motorcycles.

To my surprise, I saw a Utah house tour of a great garage conversion a few weeks later and, only after clicking through it all, realized it was the Spencer I knew. Check out what he and his fiance have done to their garage. The heating must be a pain, but it’s very apparent that Spencer is a man whose presence is felt in his castle.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

You may not like everything they’ve done, but there are certainly some cool ideas from which to pull inspiration.

Pendleton

Home

September Picks

3
10 September, 2013

Here are my top nine picks for this month.

Economy

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Target Mossimo Henley: One of the best-kept secrets of cheap but well-fitting mens clothing is Target. It’s where I go for my V-necks and my socks because it doesn’t cost an arm and a leg, the fit is surprisingly good, and there are a ton of color options. A few years ago the Mossimo line at Target offered an awesome henley. It went away after only one season but it looks like it’s back. $13

Forever 21 Marled Striped Socks: The upcoming cooler weather is going to demand warmer socks. Something thick with some pattern will do great under a pair of dark jeans and your work boots. $3

Topman Chambray Tie: While chambray may be associated with spring and summer, it’s a great transitional material for the first few weeks of fall. It comes in the traditional blue or a more attention-seeking red. $20

Coach

1901 Canyon Chukka: Nothing says fall quite like desert boots. They’re not as heavy or large as your winter boots but are better suited for the changing climate than the espadrilles you’ve been wearing all summer. $100

Cheap Monday Slim Fit Chinos: There’s nothing memorable about these – which is exactly what you want sometimes. Pair them with a plain T-shirt or a polo when you want to fly under the radar without looking like a man child. Ideal for attending all of fall’s many sporting events. $75

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J Crew Wallace & Barnes Bedford Cord Jacket: Between the corduroy and the cut of the jack, this is definitely a work jacket – something you’ll want with you for trips to the cabin or just cooler nights in the backyard. $140

First Class

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Brooks Brothers Football Leather Penny Loafers: Because football. $350

Barbour Powell Quilted Jacket: The quilted trend that started picking up momentum last year is going to hit its stride this season. If you’re going to get in on it, why not do so with one of the most popular outdoor brands out there? Barbour makes the real deal and this thing should last through plenty of hunting seasons. $250

Natural Selection Denim Raw Narrow Leg Jeans: Slim without looking like you pulled on your girlfriend’s pants, these are a selvedge denim that just gets better with age. The color is perfect and there are no frills, so people pay attention to you and not the weird, bedazzled pattern on your back pocket. $255

Brooks Brothers

Clothing

The Emperor Has No Clothes

5
4 September, 2013

I don’t get political on here very often – and a large part of that is because I believe our current, two-party system is really just two factions of the same club, and both are more interested in furthering their own interests than in protecting the Constitution they’ve sworn to uphold.

One thing that’s been more than a little caution inducing is the existing climate in which it is almost impossible to express any criticism of the current president – because Racism!!!. The irony is that half of the crap Obama is praised for is used to ridicule other men from other parties (and even his own). Does anyone remember the GQ brouhaha about Paul Ryan’s style and how he really needed a tailor? It was true, the man looked like a joke. But the implied and spoken contrast was that Obama himself was the cool, Gen-X, well-dressed man who was already improving the appearance of Washington. I even remember one pundit saying one of the reasons the Obama’s were so great was because you could actually imagine them having sex (unlike the icky Bush’s).

If Ryan and Romney were the goofs of menswear, Obama was its political ambassador. However, in their fever pitch, the Cathedral forgot to notice that the emperor has no clothes, and Obama really is as dorky as his competition. I present the evidence.

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And, lest you think it’s just his casual game that’s hurting, I give you a belt clip and pleated pants.

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This is not a criticism of the man’s politics, his background, or his end game. It’s a criticism of every person who refuses to see the reality that’s in front of them. If you’ve had enough of the kool aid that you believe this man is a paragon of cool-guy style, you’re clearly trying to see something that isn’t there. And if you’re lying to yourself about his appearance, what else are you failing to see?

Johnston & Murphy shoes under $150

Clothing, Musings

Fall Casual Upgrade

2
28 August, 2013

Over the last two years I’ve covered almost every reason a man should dress more formally. But the fact of the matter is, sometimes you want to dress down. No one wants to be the guy who has a reputation for taking himself and every situation he’s in way too seriously. And, let’s be honest, wearing a casual suit over to your friends’ for Sunday night football is overkill.

With autumn fast approaching it’s time to start thinking about what you’ll be wearing when the temperatures cool down. A sweater, in any of its iterations (v-neck, cardigan, shawl collar, etc), is a great way to still be a bit dressed up while focusing on comfort. That being said, we’re sticking with casual today.

For 99% of Western men, the casual cold-weather staple is the hoody.

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But we, my friends, can do better than that with one simple change – the crewneck sweatshirt.

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Shockingly enough, it’s basically a hoody without the hood. While that one distinction may seem minor, it’s so crucial that it changes your appearance from freshman dorm rat to successful adult.

Keep in mind that the general rules of style still apply here. Avoid large logos, make sure the fit is correct, buy the best quality you can afford so it’ll last as long as possible, forget about it as soon as you put it on, and don’t act like it’s a big deal the first time your friends see you in it and choose to make a comment.

If you don’t have a whole lot to spend, try these two options from Forever 21. Both are under $20

If you have a bit more, try this from Nordstrom for $50

And if you really have some cash to spend, try this APC beauty for $210

This will pair best with jeans or khakis, some boots or sneakers, and a simple T-shirt underneath. Remember that simplicity is key here and the important part of dressing well casually is to make sure people pay attention to you and not your clothes. You want people to say, “You look different today” but not be able to pinpoint why.

Forever 21

Clothing

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