(no title)

Review: Bespoke Post

29 April, 2015

It seems like the subscription service model has blown up over the last couple of years. What started off with a few companies like Trunk Club and Gilt, has turned into a real force and game changer in the way men buy clothing.

Recently a company by the name of Bespoke Post reached out and offered to send me one of their boxes to review.

Before diving into the products themselves, here’s how the system works. First off, you can choose to subscribe or not. The prices for any month’s box are $45 for subscribers and $55 as one-offs. A new box is announced at the beginning of each month and you have until the fifth to decide to buy, skip, or swap it out with a box from a previous month. Shipping happens around the middle of the month and comes right to your door.

Pretty simple and straightforward.

The thing that I really like about their service is that they don’t pigeonhole themselves into one particular category. Most subscription services are based around a specialized product or group of products. Examples would be a shirt mailed to you every month or a new box of grooming products. These are fantastic but can be overkill for guys who don’t go through products as quickly.

What Bespoke Post does is offer entirely different boxes every month. For example, their current selection includes a shaving kit, BBQ tools and equipment, kitchen knives, a gym kit, a starter tie set, etc.

Some of the boxes feel more fleshed out than others. I assume this relates to the relative price of included items. The tradeoff being that a box with fewer items will include pieces which cost more.

Each box’s page is loaded with supplemental content. There are potential add-ons that can be included with the box, blog posts detailing how to best utilize the included tools, photos and descriptions of the products and what companies they’re from, and reviews from other men who have received the box in the past.

After looking through each box, I had them send me their Polished kit.

Included was:

1 Black & 1 Brown 6.5″ Buffing Brush
1 Black & 1 Brown 6″ Applicator Brush
1 6″ Suede Brush
1 Leather Conditioner / Moisturizer
1 Black and 1 Brown Polishing Cream
1 Wax
1 Chamois

This is more than can be expected from a grocery-store starter kit, but not so much that the average user would be overwhelmed by the number of included tools. The fact that there are separate applicator and buffer brushes for brown and black shoes is a great attention to detail and makes shining a much better process.

Included on a physical card are instructions for three different levels of shoe shine and a breakdown of each included product, its use, and its origin.

I spent about half an hour one Sunday morning with two pairs of shoes and was very happy with the results.

I’ve tried many subscription services in the past, but this has been my favorite thus far. The guys over at Bespoke Post seem to think like we do. They create great boxes to fill voids that most men may have in their wardrobes or tool kits. Then they give so much information related to each box that the individual can go as far down the rabbit hole as he likes. I look forward to seeing what boxes they continue to come up with and will be using them in the future.

As a disclosure, after receiving the box, I set up an affiliate relationship with Bespoke Post. If you decide to buy one of their boxes through the links on this review or anywhere else on my site, I get a kickback from them (that honestly will just go to other box purchases for me, haha).

What to Pack for a Tropical Vacation

16 April, 2015

A mere month ago I was playing on the beaches of Oahu with my wife, my family, and no kids. I love my children, but learning the difference between a trip and a vacation was enlightening. I’m going to have to make it a point to do an annual trip without them and let them get their own mini vacation with grandparents and cousins.

As can be imagined, my typical clothing choices for a March in Salt Lake City are very different from what should be worn in Hawaii. Here’s what I packed, along with what I realized a didn’t need to bring, and what I wished I had.

Left to right from top to bottom:

Nike Trainers: One of my favorite parts of the trip was getting the chance to exercise outside. I played around with bodyweight exercises most days and never pushed myself as hard as I do in the gym, but having some shoes that are great for a workout were still necessary.

Ventoso Driving Shoes: These drivers were a perfect way to dress up a bit without looking like I was on the island on business. When we wanted to go out to eat they were an easy slip on and they were great in the airport. I always recommend a shoe that will come on and off easily while having your fourth amendment rights violated by the TSA.

Hollister Flip-Flops: I’ve owned these for eight years. It’s a testament to how little they get worn that they’re actually still in great shape. I recommend getting something cheap and expendable because you never know when they’ll get lost, stolen, or destroyed.

Cabana e Fogo Swim Trunks: Shorter than most guys are comfortable wearing, but some great trunks. These were my go-to pair last year and I was grateful to have them on the trip.

Bluemint Swim Trunks: A new edition to the wardrobe for this trip. These are some high-quality trunks that fit great, dry quickly, and perfectly straddle the line between too short and too long. What’s the point of working on that quad definition if you can’t show it off?

Taft No-Show Socks: I’m friends with the guy who started this company and he’s done very well for himself. If you’re ever inclined to go sockless (and I highly recommend it) this is the most sanitary, sanity-saving way to do it.

Olivers Apparel Athletic Shorts: Just like the Nike’s above, I wanted a good pair of gym shorts. However, with packing space being minimal, I also wanted something that I could wear when not at the beach. These transition excellently from the gym to the streets and are very comfortable in both environments.

H&M White Chinos: While I do like shorts, there’s something a bit more grownup to wearing a pair of pants. White fits the environment well and communicates some intentionality.

Docker’s Lightweight Alpha Khakis: Because we spent a decent amount of time in locales other than the beach, a second pair of tropical-weight pants was a necessity.

Target Tank Tops: Cheap, fit well, great for the beach, the pool, or a workout.

H&M Black Ball Cap: As tempted as I was to take a Panama hat, I was more active than having that hat would have allowed for. While we spent the bulk of our time on the sand, more of it was used playing frisbee, wrestling, or skim boarding than just lying around, so I wanted a hat that could stay on with the activity.

Forever 21 Oxford Cloth Shirt: Great as an open layer over a tank top, or a little more dressed up when buttoned up and worn on its own.

Forever 21 Madras Shirt: Lightweight and great for exploring on the island when not in the water.

Beckett & Robb Oxford Cloth Shirt: This was my airport shirt. The long sleeves help with temperature regulation on the plane and it worked great with a more dressed-up flight ensemble.

Most of this stuff was picked up on the cheap, and that was intentional. With a vacation like this, especially one with more of a focus on beach time and playing than on museum visits or fine dining, I wanted clothes that I wouldn’t miss if something happened to them. While I do advocate paying the best for things like Staples and dress clothes, there’s always a time and a place for cheaper, lower quality items.

That said, neither my shoes or swim trunks came cheap. Drivers are versatile for so much more than just a vacation and a quality pair of trunks should last a very long time. The great thing about those BlueMint shorts is their quality, cut, and classic styling mean they could be something I own and wear for decades. The cost per wear on a pair of trunks like these is significantly less than replacing cheap board shorts every year.

So what did I bring that I wish I hadn’t?

J Crew Oxford Shorts: Even when using limited space, it is possible to over pack. These didn’t get worn once. I had enough by way of pants and swim trunks that there was no real need.

Jewelry: Man this was a rookie mistake. I have my daily wear of stuff that I figured I’d keep on rotation while on our trip. After the first night, none of this ever left my nightstand until we left. Even when we got a bit more dressed up to go out, it was unnecessary.

H&M Espadrilles: These aren’t great for the beach and fell into the over packing territory for anything else. Any environment in which they would have been worn was better served by either the flip-flops or the drivers.

And lastly, what did I not bring that I wish I would have?

Forever 21 Sweatshirt: Simple. Athletic

MyVice Sweatpants: Simple. Athletic

While the temperature difference between Utah and Hawaii was significant, that didn’t mean Hawaii was without its cold nights. I also learned, the hard way, that spending an entire day in the cold water, could lead to some pretty low body temps when coming back onto land in overcast conditions. Even just lounging around our house at night would’ve been more comfortable and enjoyable with a little more body heat retention.

All in all, I believe I did pretty well. That being said, I know what to include and what to omit for the next trip to make it all the more enjoyable.

Defining Masculinity

14 April, 2015

Last week I got an email from graduate student at USC who is working on a thesis about masculinity in America. She asked if I would answer some questions, and I was happy to do so. I doubt my views will be popular amongst her colleagues. I know they weren’t when I was studying journalism during my time as a student, but that doesn’t mean they won’t be positively received by some.

This post contains her questions and my answers – primarily because I want to have a public record of everything as I read and wrote it. Secondly, I thought they were good, thought-provoking questions that made me think a bit deeper on the topic.

Age: 30
Job/Title – Company: Creator of Masculine Style
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

1. How would you define masculinity?

Masculinity is amoral. It is what distinguishes adult males from adult females and adult males from children. Humans are sexually dimorphic and masculinity consists of both the natural and cultural ways in which men distinguish themselves from women and children. Women may develop, envy, or demonstrate cultural traits of masculinity but they will never be able to supersede the sexual dimorphism of our species.

The two best explanations I’ve read on masculinity come from men who have studied and discussed the topic extensively.

Jack Donovan uses the four tactical virtues of Strength, Courage, Honor, and Mastery to distinguish a man who is good at being a man.

Brett McKay uses the three P’s of Provide, Protect, and Procreate to establish man’s natural and cultural responsibilities throughout history.

2. How do you think society views masculinity?

I believe Western society views masculinity as an outdated aspect of a rougher society at best and an outright threat to peace and prosperity at worst. Even when masculinity is celebrated, it is most often only done so in relation to how men have a positive effect on women and children. While I do believe that part of masculinity can be defined within relation to children and women, more important is how men perceive, respect, and interact with each other.

This view of men defining masculinity and carrying it out serve our own purposes is anathema to our current culture.

3. What’s your background? What pushed you to starting Masculine Style and consulting with men?

I grew up inSalt Lake City Utah as a member of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints. I’m married with two children. I graduated from the University of Utah with a degree in Broadcast Journalism and the hopes of pursuing a career in radio.

Masculine Style was started as a way for me to continue to blog, write, and hone my voice, but to move away from heavier topics like politics and religion. It started as a hobby and became a business when my wife gave birth to our first child and my responsibilities to provide became greater.

4. How would you describe a masculine look?

A masculine look is characterized by prioritizing respect over attraction. Men value the respect of other men and also understand that the love of women cannot be maintained without their respect as well. This respect may come from following or defying convention, but the purpose is always to demonstrate a respect for self and the expectation of respect from others.

5. What types of colors/clothing/brands etc. is usually incorporated with your style?

Six out of seven days a week I’m in a button-up shirt with a jacket – most often a full suit-and-tie ensemble. When I’m not in a suit I’m in clothing that serves to enhance the activity I’m participating in, both from a physical and a social perspective.

Colors, brands, and types of clothing are largely irrelevant because different cultures, subcultures, and tribes all value and demonstrate respect for men differently. A suit is as out of place at a skatepark as skinny jeans, Vans, and a baggy T-shirt are in a boardroom. The same man may comfortably and congruently wear both, but style is when he wears them in the correct environment and in front of the correct audience.

6. What types of men usually visit your site or use you as a consultant?

My readers are the best. Time and again they’ve demonstrated themselves as men who seek improvement and want to better themselves in as many ways as possible. Most understand that clothing is not a crucial aspect of masculinity, but it IS an aspect, and one that can be both quickly and easily improved. They use this change as a catalyst to grow in other areas.

I’ve worked with men from all over the world and from all walks of life: blue-collar, white-collar, gay, straight, fathers, pick-up artists, nihilists, and influencers. All of them are unapologetically men and want to use their clothing to communicate their masculinity.

7. Are there any role models you believe that hold the masculine look best? or inspiration you use for consulting?

Role models are largely subjective. Some men aspire to be like James Bond while others value Michael Jordan. The problem with currently using role models is that most modern men are caricatures of masculinity. Our society looks up to movies stars, athletes, and entertainers rather than providers, protectors, warriors, or philosophers. There were men in the past who better embodied aspirational masculinity, but emulating their style is as silly as emulating their mannerisms or their speech patterns. A man can look to Teddy Roosevelt, Ghandi, or Aristotle as an example of masculinity and understand that dressing like them won’t serve his purposes.

8. Can you explain a bit about the 3 Archetypes of Masculine Style?

With an understanding of the Four Tactical Virtues and the 3 P’s of Manhood, I believe that men fall somewhere within a spectrum of three archetypes of Masculinity. They are:

Rugged – men who exert their influence over the world physically

Refined – men who exert their influence over the world financially or socially

Rakish – men who exert their influence over the world through rebellion

Very rarely do I find men who don’t exhibit some measure of all three archetypes. More rare is the man who evenly embodies all three. Part of my coaching process is to help men understand where they fall within these three archetypes and then to teach them to dress accordingly. Congruence is key in dressing well and I don’t believe a man can dress well without first knowing who he is, who his tribe is, who he wants to be, and who he wants his tribe to be.

Anything else you think is important to know?

Like I stated above, I believe that clothing and appearance are an aspect of masculinity, even if they are not a crucial part. If I objectively knew that a doctor, who appeared homeless, was better than one in a suit, I’d take the homeless-looking one. That being said, we very rarely know the objective value of people or their skills and we use clothing, grooming, and appearance as a shortcut to both communicate and perceive our value.

Hair Care Part 2: Shaving Fundamentals

9 April, 2015

So you read yesterday’s post and decided a beard isn’t for you. Great. Here’s how to get the best result when shaving.

There are two distinct methods to shaving: Dry Shaving & Wet Shaving, with each of these having sub-methods that I’ll detail below.

Dry Shaving:

1. Electric Razors were first patented in 1928 and were designed for dry skin only. Many recent electric razors have been designed to allow for wet/dry use, which also allows them to be cleaned using running water or an included cleaning machine, reducing cleaning effort. Some patience is necessary when starting to use a razor of this type, as the skin usually takes some time to adjust to the way that the electric razor lifts and cuts the hairs. They also require the hair to be extremely short already as anything longer than 5 o’clock shadow can cause the blades to jam or tug on the hair causing an uncomfortable shave.

2. Depilatories are razorless creams/powders/gels that use chemicals to break the disulfide bonds in the keratin and allow it to be scraped off the skin at the surface. As the epidermis is also rich in keratin, the skin may become irritated and sensitive if the preparation is left on for too long. Regular use of chemical depilatories may result in hair root neutralization for a longer period of time than usual. They’re akin to a mild chemical peel so they are not for those with sensitive skin but can be used effectively with extremely curly facial hair.

Wet Shaving

1. Conventional Straight Razors were first patented by an English manufacturing company in 1680 and haven’t changed much since their inception. The most difficult of shaves, yet the most satisfying (if I do say so myself), the straight razor requires a high initial investment in not only the razor, but a strop and hone and other materials making it out of the realm of impulse purchases. The grind & depth of the hollow, point profile, blade length, blade width, scale, and pivot mechanism are all important factors in choosing a razor; as are the choices of strop materials, hone types, grits and cleaning methods. A good razor can go upwards of $200, strops from $90 to $300, and hones from $50 to $150. This doesn’t include the steep learning curve associated with straight razors, as they can be extremely dangerous in inexperienced hands.

Disposable straight razors are a unique modern invention as they utilize the principles of straight razor shaving but eliminate the aftercare as once the blade becomes dull, a new one can be quickly changed out.

2. Safety razors came to popularity after King C. Gillette introduced the disposable razor blade in 1901 and gave men a way to shave at home that didn’t threaten them with death and dismemberment the way straight razors have been known to do. The predecessor to the cartridge razor of today, the safety razor’s design simplifies the 30° angle necessary to shave hair correctly and because of the single blade design, they don’t have to deal with clogging issues as much as modern razors.

Disposable safety razors are a thing too! BiC invented them in 1974

3. Cartridge Razors followed quickly behind safety razors as manufacturers moved away from steel and into plastics. Gillette introduced the twin blade Trac II razor in 1975, the triple blade Mach 3 in 1998, the four blade Quattro, five blade Fusion and six blade Dorco in the two decades after. All of them function on the same basic principle of “Hysteresis” which is that the first blade in the model serves to “lift” (pull) the hair out further from the follicle opening in the skin and the blades there after shave the hair so close that it actually retracts underneath the surface of the skin providing a very smooth shave. This however can lead to skin irritation as each pass of the razor is multiplied by the number of blades i.e. one pass of a fusion blade is like 5 passes with a single safety razor. Also the issue of cutting the hair so it retracts below the skin’s surface can lead to a condition called pseudofolliculitis barbae or colloquially known as razor bumps wherein the skin grows over the follicle opening causing ingrown hairs.

The “razor and blades” business model, the sale of dependent goods for different prices – one good is sold at a discount, while the second dependent good is sold at a considerably higher price – actually comes from King C. Gillette’s initial marketing campaign of the safety razor. Videogame companies use this same business model today.

You’ve undoubtedly skipped ahead looking for the part where I talk about getting a better shave, so I’ll save your scrolling thumbs and explain how to get your best shave.

SHAVING – THE STRAIGHT AND NARROW PATH

Preparation or Pre-shave.

As my mentor told me, so shall I reveal to you: “A face well prepared is half-shaven to start”. This is the step that most guys will skimp on because it is the least given attention to by shaving companies. Blade innovations are paramount to them, but no amount of blades or their sharpness will ever cover for an improperly prepared face.

1. Wash your face to start with and if you’re shaving more than 3 weeks growth I suggest using clippers/trimmers to bring it down to a manageable level. You can also shave in the shower if one has a fogless mirror or right after. If not, make yourself a few hot towels and apply them to your face making sure to remove them as soon as they start to get warm. Others will say to leave it on for at least 2 minutes or more, but that doesn’t matter if your towel isn’t hot. The heat is important for several reasons:

a. The heat relaxes the skin, and muscles making your face more pliable allowing it to stretch easier to both manipulate the blade over, and to allow the blade a certain leniency with “skipping” which is where the blade applied to the face with too much pressure, and the skin behind it not being held in place, literally “jumps” over small sections of skin possibly cutting when it lands. Pliable skin can skip without too much fear of injury so if you’re bad at shaving, your hand isn’t quite so steady or your grip fails you, it won’t always spell disaster for your face.

b. When applied to hair, water breaks the hydrogen bonds present in the keratin cells and softens it. Pretty much it is like the Imperio Curse for your hair; it becomes completely malleable while it is wet. Hot water doubly so. Broken hydrogen bonds turn stiff-as-copper-wire hair into something a razor can easily slice through, reducing tugging and pulling that would otherwise plague a razor on dry skin.

2. Apply shaving oil. This has less to do with the interaction between the razor and the hair as it is for the razor and the skin. Applying an oil first helps to re-establish a moisture barrier on the skin’s surface so that as you begin to shave the razor has a micron-thin lipid layer that it will remove before it will begin to remove micron-thin layers of epidermal cells.

3. Lather it up. Lather’s functions are actually a little more complex than one might think. At first glance it’s to create a smooth surface for the razor to pass over, but traditional lather has its roots in soaps. Lather, due to its pH, actually attracts the dirt and gunk (dead skin cells, club hairs, sweat, food particles, air pollution entities etc..) buildup on your face and bonds with it so that as one shaves the lather cleans the face. Lather also serves to maintain a microclimate of heat and water against your skin, so that while one side of the face is being shaved, the other half isn’t drying out and the hairs aren’t reforming hydrogen bonds. Shaving is a race against the clock and lather dramatically extends that time. You can use your hand to lather up but the best lathering method is with a brush. The greatest benefit from shave brush use to lift facial hair and surround the follicle with hot water and lather. Applying shaving cream by hand mats hair or raises it unevenly and can’t get close enough to the skin to have the same effect. The microclimate created by hand lathering can lead to pockets of un-lathered dry skin.

The modern badger brush can be traced back to France during the 1750’s where it was known as a blaireau. Brushes come in 3 different qualities, with a handful of delineations beyond that.

Horsehair makes up the cheapest of the cheap shaving brushes. It is very coarse and does not retain water very well making lathering difficult with shaving soaps.
Boar hair is relatively inexpensive but can be made high quality. Though coarse, repeated use causes the hair in higher-end brushes to split resulting in a brush that is very soft but has considerable backbone. The boar’s hair is also water absorbent and needs to be soaked in water before use to be fully effective. This has its drawbacks though if the brush is not left to dry completely it can become mildew infested and ruin the brush permanently.
Badger hair is touted as the supreme brush component, and is rightly so for a number of reasons. The lowest quality badger brush is still leaps above even the best-made boar brush. Badger hair specifically because of its water retention qualities. Badger hair has no official standard grading scale for quality but industry wide there are basic classifications for badger hair that are as follows:
- “Pure” Badger hair (or just Badger) comes from the underbelly of the badger, around 60% of its fur. The coarsest of the badger due to its thickness, the ends of the brush are often trimmed to a shape resulting in stiff, rough ends
- “Best” Badger hair is made with finer and more pliable hairs and allows for a better lather, though the quality between a pure and best is often negligible and the handle and bristle knot size being the biggest difference of the two.
- “Super” badger hair is the finest 20%-25% of Best hair and usually due to its coloration will often resemble the higher-grade silvertip.
- “Silver Tip” hair is pulled from the neck area of the badger and is the most expensive and rare type of brush hair. Its vastly superior water retention qualities and un-paralleled softness make this the ultimate shaving brush. Like driving a Rolls Royce over your face.
- “Extra Silver Tip” brushes only exist in the highest echelons of the shaving world and are almost exclusively custom made by hand and run easily $1,000+.

Time to shave

You’re all lathered up, blade in hand, now what? Well by this point, you’ve already examined the growth patterns on your face right? No? Well you should have. Knowing your growth patterns is key because the first time around with the razor you’re going to shave with the grain. If you’re trying a new style of razor it is important to only go one direction at first so you can both get a feel for your new tool and so you can see how your face responds to it as well. If you’re fighting your face with removing hair going with the grain, you can save yourself a lot of hassle and skip against the grain because it will only be a painful disappointment.

Use your free hand and with three fingers, gently hold your skin in place as you shave away from your hand with the growth. Take care not to pull your skin too far out of place as this is the same “Hysteresis” technique whereby the hair is uprooted from the follicle further than normal causing it to be shaved so close it will retreat under the skin when you remove your hand from your face. Let the weight of the blade do the work as pushing the blade into your skin will always be something you regret. As for stroke length, I will tell you what my mentor told me: “As long as you dare. The first stroke shaves the hair, each stroke after that just irritates the skin”. It’s not about long or short, it is the fewer the better. The elasticity of your skin will tell you how long you can comfortably make each stroke, and for myself each stroke is about as long as my index finger. Beyond that the blade is too far away from my opposing hand and the skin will bunch, skip, and I will often end up with a nick. Each face is different so there is no right way to shave it. When I teach straight razor self-shaving classes at my shop I have to cater my lesson to the clients unique facial structure. Once you’ve shaved your whole face with the grain you can decide to re-lather (and I suggest using a hot towel as well) and go cross-grain as a second pass and even lather up a third time and go against the grain. Again, go for least number of strokes with minimal pressure to reduce the chance for irritation.

Post Shave or The Home Stretch

Come on! You’ve stuck with me this far, just a little bit longer. So you’ve shaven with, cross or against the grain (or all three for truly svelte skin) and now its time to finish things off. If you have any nicks or cuts, an alum block rubbed allover the face, or nick powder applied with a Q-tip will help close things off. Anything larger than a paper cut and you might need to apply pressure and treat it like you would any wound, even making the trip to the hospital if you really get yourself good. Assuming you got off scot-free the first step is to very gently wipe any remaining lather. Don’t rub anything against your face as your razor has revealed a fresh new layer of skin cells and it’s in a very fragile state right now. Rinse your skin with cold water, as this will begin the process of closing your pores and tightening your skin. Apply an alcohol free aftershave, or toner, as its job of rebalancing your skins’ pH in preparation for a moisturizer is vital. Apply your aftershave balm or moisturizer (either or, they’re most likely the same thing – make sure it is oil free) last. I like to go one extra step and apply a cold towel to my face after the moisturizer as a way to really help lock it in. Optionally you can apply a light coating of talc or barber’s powder to eliminate any remaining moisture on your face so you don’t look like you just got a shave. Clean your razor, replace your blade if necessary, rinse your brush well and let it hang to dry (or place it sideways on a towel if you don’t have a brush stand) and you’re all done.

That about covers hair care on your face, I left some things out purposefully as they weren’t fitting here but they’ll be in the companion piece to this one. As always, I’m just a barber, not a doctor so if you have serious issues go see someone with a degree and get their opinion. Try new things, experiment, read reviews, get samples and honestly do it for you. Shaving should be a ritual that you enjoy. Not a miserable experience you have to do because of some employee handbook rule or girlfriend stipulation. Take pride in your equipment, your skill and make it your own. Be intentional about your shave and it will be an enjoyable experience akin to one at the barbershop. During a scene in Skyfall, British actress and femme fatale Naomie Harris gives 007, played by Daniel Craig, a close shave using a cutthroat razor, whispering in his ear “sometimes the old ways are the best” as she performs the shave. Online retailers around the world saw increases in sales of razors up 50% to as much as 400% just because of that scene. Shaving is a unique phenomenon to men as barbers were held in such high regard in the past and certain esteem has been appointed to shaving with a brush and razor over the due course of time that it is an awe inspiring skill to have in ones repertoire. I hope you’ve learned a little bit and the next time you shave you are able to look at it through new eyes and can have a personal and enlightening experience in the few moments you have to yourself before you have to plug back into the Matrix.

Hair Care Part 1: To Shave or Not to Shave

8 April, 2015

As per the title, Hair Care is the subject of today’s lesson but it is such a massive area to cover, that in order for me to touch on every topic I want to within it, I’m going to break this section down into two sister articles. We’ll be covering all things facial hair in these first two pieces and everything related to scalp hair in subsequent posts.

So to begin.

As I am sure all of you readers (those not living under rocks at the bottom of the ocean on a distant planet) have noticed over the last few years, Barbering is back with a vengeance, reviving the men’s grooming/shaving industries and subsequently setting in motion the supermassive tidal wave of the Beard & Moustache culture seen everywhere. This sensational upsurge has been [mostly] a positive movement as men everywhere are rediscovering traditions held by their fore-fathers, styles long thought dead, practices all-but-forgotten and much more, but with popularity comes imitation and every Tom, Dick, and Harry have written an op-ed piece on “how to get the best shave”.

Instead of rehashing the same tired nonsense about “the perfect shave”, I will endeavor to explain how a man’s hair works, and what methods of shaving work for what and whom, and then let you make your own decisions.

The average beard contains between 7,000 to 15,000 hairs, as much as the average woman’s legs and underarms combined, and a man will spend about 33 days of his life just removing facial hair. The average beard hair has the same tensile strength of copper wire of the same diameter. From there, hair breaks down into three parts:

Medulla – the innermost shaft of the hair that provides structure, is often missing in lighter colored hair due to a genetic flaw

Cortex – the inner “gooey” mass to the hair where melanin (pigment or in layman’s terms your hair color) is stored alongside moisture.

Cuticle – The outer translucent layer of the hair, keratin cells grow in a similar fashion to overlapping scales and serve to protect the hair by retaining moisture.

Beard and body hair is also known as Androgenic hair, one of the three types of hair alongside Head Hair and Vellus Hair (the peach fuzz everybody has covering their body). It’s called Androgenic hair specifically because it related to the level of androgens (male hormones) in the individual. Due to a normally higher level of androgen, men tend to have more androgenic hair than women. Hair also grows in three different phases:

Anagen Phase – The active growth phase of hair follicles during which the root of the hair is dividing rapidly, adding to the hair shaft. During this phase the hair grows about 1 cm every 28 days. Scalp hair stays in this active phase of growth for 2–7 years while Body hair stays in this active phase for only a few months, which is why it (comparatively) does not grow as long as head hair. The phase length is also determined by one’s genetics which means your body has a pre-determined terminal length to their hair i.e. head hair/body hair will only grow to a certain length before it stops and enters the…

Catagen Phase – a short transitional period for the hair where it becomes fully keratinized, is considered “dead” and converts to a “club” hair which in layman’s terms refers to a hair no longer attached to the internal base shaft that supplies blood and new cells for growth. Once this process is complete the hair enters the….

Telogen Phase – The resting phase for the hair. Basically it is a dead “club” hair that stays on your head until it eventually falls out. Fifty to one-hundred “club” hairs are shed daily from a normal scalp, though in cases of extreme stress on the body as much as 70% of the hair can enter the telogen phase and fall out prematurely.

At any given time up to 90% of the hair follicles are in the anagen phase while, 1–2% in catagen and10–14% are in telogen.

So you’ve got this incredibly dense forest of constantly growing hair on your face, what do you do with it? For one you can grow it and begin cultivating a beard/moustache. If you’ve never had one, it’s a great test of manhood to grow out a beard and see its potential. Beards can completely alter the perception of a man’s image by other people and can accentuate other features of his face while simultaneously hiding flaws.

Growing a Beard:

Step 1. Be Patient.

When you first start growing, the most important thing you can do is practice self-restraint by ignoring the urge to trim or shave for at least 4-6 weeks. That way you can get a complete picture of where your hair grows fastest, and where your beard doesn’t quite fill in. This will help with the final product, as you’ll be able to match your beard to your face shape and make your beard, and you, look better.

Step 2. Keep it clean.

This is especially important during the first few months of growth as dead skin, food particles, and telogen phase hair can become trapped against the skin exacerbating itchiness. Scrubbing weekly with a beard specific cleanser (you can’t use your everyday shampoo) and patting it dry with a towel is important. Overzealous toweling can lead to frizz and split ends.

Step 3. Learn to train your beard.

The glands at the opening of the hair produce a fatty secretion that lubricates the cuticle. Its complex structure slides as the hair swells and is covered with a single molecular layer of lipid that makes the hair repel water and keeps the cuticle soft, shiny and healthy. That single layer of water-repellent fatty oil can be worn away easily with dry outside temperatures, air pollution, excess touching and much more. Without it, split ends and premature breakage can occur and the beard as a whole can become tough and unruly. To combat that, daily applications of beard oil will condition the hairs promoting softness and manageability. A daily rubdown with a wooden beard comb or animal hair beard brush can actually help [re]distribute your natural oils as well as beard oils, training your hair to grow in desired directions.

Step 4. Healthy Body = Healthy Beard

You can’t build a house without bricks, and the same applies to facial hair. Your beard is made from protein and fat, but it’s also heavily reliant on Vitamins B5, B3, and B9. That means lean meats, nuts, egg yolks, milk, and plenty of leafy greens. There is a direct correlation between the quality of your diet and the quality of your beard. Avoid junk food (especially sweets) as they can wreak havoc on your beard hair and the skin underneath it. Eat a steak, or a chicken, or a fish, or some peanut butter (go organic as store bought stuff usually has added sugar)…anything with ample protein. Your beard, and the hormones that grow it will benefit from healthy amounts of high quality protein. Hair is basically spent protein. Don’t skimp on fat, either. Just choose healthy fats. Specifically, eat food high in Omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3s have long been associated with hair and skin growth and its condition, and studies have shown them to be critically important to most functions within the body. Beard growth occurs with repair, and your body does the most repairs during rest, especially during sleep. Plus, testosterone (male hormones, androgenic hair, remember?) production is highest in men during the morning hours in the final sleep cycle. So focus on two sleep points: 1) Getting enough sleep (quantity), and 2) getting good sleep (quality).

It’s no coincidence that old men who take naps every day have the longest beards: better sleep habits = better beard habits.

“But I shave for work!”

“My wife likes me clean shaven!”

“I can’t grow a beard!”

I can hear the cries now. Don’t worry my good fellows; shaving doesn’t make you any less masculine than growing a beard. Barber’s can actually be huge hypocrites in this way, in that we always tout the awesomeness of growing a beard but we’re heavily versed in the ways of the straight razor shave. Whether your daily routine involves a badger brush and a razor, or beard oil and a wooden comb they’re both equally awesome. We’ll cover how to properly approach shaving in the next article.