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Author: Tanner

Tanner is the founder and primary author of Masculine Style. He lives in Salt Lake City, Utah with his wife and two kids, and helps run Beckett & Robb - a men's clothing company built around custom suits and shirts.

The Mighty Mongrel Mob: An Example of Tribal Aesthetics

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3 June, 2015

Recently Vice published a photo series taken of men from the Mighty Mongrel Gang in New Zealand.

Fascinating isn’t a strong enough word to describe these men. I’m going to remove all moral assessments of who these men are and what they’ve done. It’s very easy for me to sit here, on my porch in the suburbs, typing on a Macbook, to say that these are bad men.

In all honesty, I think I immediately go there because they intimidate me. Hell, they terrify me. I can’t imagine being face-to-face with one of these men.

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So it’s easy for me to write them off as bad. What I can’t do is say they’re not good at being men. When it comes to the amoral virtues of Brett McKay’s Provide, Protect, and Procreate along with Jack Donovan’s Strength, Courage, Mastery, and Honor, these mobsters are most likely excellent at being men.

With that as our base, and understanding that this is a style blog, I want to talk about their appearance.

It’s men like these who prove it a lie when other’s say things like “real men don’t care about the way they look. They just do what they do and don’t care what anybody thinks of them.”

This doesn’t happen when a man doesn’t care about how is appearance influences people around him.

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There is meaning and intentionality in the colors, materials, styles and cuts they choose to wear. All of these are reflective of the men and what they want to advertise to the world around them.

Their tattoos are an excellent way of demonstrating loyalty to their tribe while removing themselves completely from the rest of society. These men are so committed to their way of life that they have permanently altered their appearances in a way that makes them completely incapable of escaping the tribe from which they originate. That same loyalty is indicative in their clothing.

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Notice the fascist aesthetic and the nazi symbolism? These are not men who are concerned about whether or not the rest of the world believes them to be nice, tolerant, or non-judgmental. They don’t need us to like them. They don’t care what we think. We are not part of their tribe and they want us to be afraid of them.

And it doesn’t stop with just the men. They understand that a tribe’s ability to continue to remain relevant depends on its growth. Growth stems from ritual, and much of the way we dress ourselves each day is related to ritual. An office worker goes through the ritual of putting on a suit and tie each day. A member of the Mongrel Mob has his ceremonial and ritualized clothing. They pass these rituals and this aesthetic identity along to their women and children to ensure that the tribal identity is congruent for all members and that its values are upheld by the following generation.

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Is their clothing what makes them men or makes their tribe? Absolutely not. But they would look entirely different and therefore communicate something entirely different were these portraits taken in bespoke suits.

Musings

Spring 2015

28 May, 2015

No words. Just some inspiration for winter. Most images pulled from Tumblr.








Clothing

Review: Grooming Lounge

26 May, 2015

If you haven’t been following John’s excellent series on Masculine Grooming here on the site, you’re really missing out. He does a great job of breaking down the importance of having a solid grooming routine in a way that I hope has become expected with the other content of the site – mainly by giving us a little bit of history, psychology, and how-to all thrown in together.

Part of dialing in a grooming practice is using proper tools. While that does include the heavy hitters like razors and trips to the barber, it also consists of a daily dose of lotions, oils, and powders. It’s funny, I struggled typing out that last sentence because every iteration I came up with sounded soft, girly, and a bit dainty. If you feel that way at all about the necessity of grooming, seriously go read John’s series before getting deeper into this post.

After digging through John’s posts I realized my daily ritual was seriously lacking. I (like most of the civilized world) was already in the habit of daily showers, teeth brushing, and other minimal cleaning efforts, but I was not one to use lotions, powders, or oils. In fact, other than a beard oil and some pomade, I wasn’t using much beyond the typical shampoo, conditioner, and body soap.

A few months back I was introduced to one of the founders of a site called Grooming Lounge. After a few emails and a quick phone call, we agreed on their sending me a few products in exchange for a review. They were big fans of the beard and so beard care products are what they sent.

grooming lounge

One of the cool things about Grooming Lounge is the mix of other brand’s products along with their own. The package they originally sent me consisted entirely of other brand’s offerings. In it were a shampoo, conditioner, and lotion from Blue Beard, a scruff and goatee softener from Soft Goat, and a jar of beard oil from Beard Brand.

In full disclosure, I have not used the Soft Goat product. The other products have kept my beard soft enough and I wear it long enough, that I haven’t seen the need to yet.

Everything else has been great though. Some will argue that using beard specific shampoos and conditioners is unnecessary. However, after learning how different beard hair is from both head and body hair, along with how different the skin on a man’s face is from that on the rest of his body, it makes sense that beard care should require different products. What I’ve found is that the use of these items has kept my beard cleaner, softer, easier to maintain, and a whole lot less itchy.

After about six weeks of using the contents of the first package, I had the opportunity to meet both founders of Grooming Lounge at StyleCon in Atlanta. While we were there they followed up on how I was liking what they sent, and they gave me a few more goodies to try out. This time around though, everything they gave me was a product that they’ve developed and produced under their own brand.

grooming lounge

Unlike the beard-specific items from before, this kit consists mostly of shave and skin care. Maintaining the full disclosure, I haven’t yet used their “Shavior” razor burn treatment oil. Mostly it’s because I use a single-blade safety razor and haven’t experienced razor burn in years.

The rest of their lineup has made its way nicely into my daily and weekly routine though. The two products I now use daily are the Mug Moisturizer and Super Powder. The former is a lotion that helps keep dry areas softer and more flexible, while the latter is a body powder which keeps moist areas dryer and more breathable.

While I do keep a beard and have done so for nearly ten years now, I – for the most part – insist on keeping it crisp and sharp. For me this means a weekly shave every Sunday. I do a quick clean up on both my neck and cheeks, along with using a beard trimmer to make sure everything is nice and organized. In the past, I’ve been happy to use drug-store products as both shave cream and after shave, but Grooming Lounge has helped me make the transition to using higher quality goods.

I’ll admit that the first time I used their shave lineup I was a bit skeptical. I thought using a a pre-shave oil was superfluous, a non-lathering cream was inferior, and a more expensive after shave was unnecessary. I was wrong on all three counts. The closeness of my shaves is better than it’s ever been. My already minimal skin irritation is almost completely eradicated, and the balance between sharp and cool of a higher-grade after shave keeps my pores closed and feels great. All of these products have an incredible, masculine smell to them that makes the process more enjoyable as well.

While the pre-shave oil and after shave are now a part of my weekly routine, I’ve decided to keep their shaving cream as part of my travel and dopp kit. The reason’s for this are three-fold. First, the difference in the quality of my shave between using Grooming Lounge’s shaving cream vs my current was minimal. Secondly, having a non-lather shaving cream is significantly easier for travel. It doesn’t require a brush or mug and helps me keep things light. Third, I genuinely enjoy the weekly routine of using a mug and brush to create a heavy lather for my shaving. It’s cathartic and not something I want to give up when the results are just as good.

As Grooming Lounge continues to expand their offerings, both in the other brands they carry and the products they create themselves, I’m excited to see them continue with the same level of quality they’ve demonstrated thus far.

Grooming

Podcast Episode 5: Dress Like a Man – Interview With Jack Donovan

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7 May, 2015

Today’s episode is a bit different from my typical format, and one I’m very excited about. Rather than revisiting an old post, I wanted to bring on a man whose writings and discussions on masculinity have had a massive impact on my own understanding of what it means to be a man. There’s some NSFW language on here, so if you’re listening to it at the office, pop in some headphones.

To learn more about Jack Donovan, check out his relevant info here:

jack-donovan.com

The Way of Men

A Sky Without Eagles

 

Icon:

Dan Trepanier of Articles of Style


Embarrassment:

Christopher Glazek of K-Hole

The first photo is of Christopher while the other two embody his Normcore creation.


Podcast Episodes

Review: Bespoke Post

29 April, 2015

It seems like the subscription service model has blown up over the last couple of years. What started off with a few companies like Trunk Club and Gilt, has turned into a real force and game changer in the way men buy clothing.

Recently a company by the name of Bespoke Post reached out and offered to send me one of their boxes to review.

Before diving into the products themselves, here’s how the system works. First off, you can choose to subscribe or not. The prices for any month’s box are $45 for subscribers and $55 as one-offs. A new box is announced at the beginning of each month and you have until the fifth to decide to buy, skip, or swap it out with a box from a previous month. Shipping happens around the middle of the month and comes right to your door.

Pretty simple and straightforward.

The thing that I really like  about their service is that they don’t pigeonhole themselves into one particular category. Most subscription services are based around a specialized product or group of products. Examples would be a shirt mailed to you every month or a new box of grooming products. These are fantastic but can be overkill for guys who don’t go through products as quickly.

What Bespoke Post does is offer entirely different boxes every month. For example, their current selection includes a shaving kit, BBQ tools and equipment, kitchen knives, a gym kit, a starter tie set, etc.

Some of the boxes feel more fleshed out than others. I assume this relates to the relative price of included items. The tradeoff being that a box with fewer items will include pieces which cost more.

Each box’s page is loaded with supplemental content. There are potential add-ons that can be included with the box, blog posts detailing how to best utilize the included tools, photos and descriptions of the products and what companies they’re from, and reviews from other men who have received the box in the past.

After looking through each box, I had them send me their Polished kit.

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Included was:

1 Black & 1 Brown 6.5″ Buffing Brush
1 Black & 1 Brown 6″ Applicator Brush
1 6″ Suede Brush
1 Leather Conditioner / Moisturizer
1 Black and 1 Brown Polishing Cream
1 Wax
1 Chamois

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This is more than can be expected from a grocery-store starter kit, but not so much that the average user would be overwhelmed by the number of included tools. The fact that there are separate applicator and buffer brushes for brown and black shoes is a great attention to detail and makes shining a much better process.

Included on a physical card are instructions for three different levels of shoe shine and a breakdown of each included product, its use, and its origin.

I spent about half an hour one Sunday morning with two pairs of shoes and was very happy with the results.

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I’ve tried many subscription services in the past, but this has been my favorite thus far. The guys over at Bespoke Post seem to think like we do. They create great boxes to fill voids that most men may have in their wardrobes or tool kits. Then they give so much information related to each box that the individual can go as far down the rabbit hole as he likes. I look forward to seeing what boxes they continue to come up with and will be using them in the future.

As a disclosure, after receiving the box, I set up an affiliate relationship with Bespoke Post. If you decide to buy one of their boxes through the links on this review or anywhere else on my site, I get a kickback from them (that honestly will just go to other box purchases for me, haha).

Clothing

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