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Author: Tanner

Tanner is the founder and primary author of Masculine Style. He lives in Salt Lake City, Utah with his wife and two kids, and helps run Beckett & Robb - a men's clothing company built around custom suits and shirts.

Review: Fratelli Orsini Gloves

2
16 January, 2014

Gloves have been around for thousands of years. From armored gauntlets to work gloves, men have been protecting their hands for as long as they’ve known how to do so.

Being the dead of winter means we’re right in the thick of glove season. Of course, our needs are different now than they were fewer than ten years ago, let alone 50 or 500. Most men today carry around some sort of touch-screen device. Smart phones and tablets are nearly ubiquitous, and normal gloves fall short when it comes to being able to use our everyday hardware.

There have been multiple attempts at solving this problem over the years. I’ve purchased knit gloves with little slits in the thumb and forefinger and read about gloves with metal in the fingers that’s supposed to interact as well as a man’s flesh. All of these options have either left something to be desired functionally or aesthetically.

With this problem in mind, I was very excited to hear about an Italian company named Fratelli Orsini. They use a special coating on their leather that makes it look, smell, and feel as if there’s nothing different, but that allows it to respond to a touch screen just like a man’s skin does.

Fratelli Orsini Logo

With their hand-made gloves created from Italian lambskin, cashmere, or North American deerskin, this company would already be well-poised to succeed. But their willingness to take their product a step further to fill their customers needs with modern technology is what could make them a game changer.

I wanted to learn more about their gloves and how they work so I reached out to them via their website. After a few back-and-forth questions and answers, they offered to send me a pair to review. I asked for their driving gloves in a tan leather. As tempting as the cashmere-lined winter gloves were, I tend to wear driving gloves year round – so I figured I’d get a lot more use out of these as a trial pair.

From the day they arrived these have been my go-to gloves. The touchscreen leather works as well as stated. I’ve never had it catch or have my phone fail to react. It’s also a big advantage to know that I’m not limited to using just one or two fingers like with most smart-phone-friendly alternatives.

Fratelli Orsini tan and brown touchscreen driving gloves

The leather is soft and comfortable on my hands, the fit is great, and they’re much more durable than other driving gloves I’ve owned in the past (not that I’ve had to lay down a bike or anything in them… yet). As can be seen in the photos, there are plenty of perforations that help prevent a man’s hands from sweating, ensuring a firm grip on a steering wheel or pair of handle bars.

Fratelli Orsini tan and brown touchscreen driving gloves

While I haven’t had any prolonged use of their winter gloves, I’ve had the opportunity to try a pair on and they’re extremely comfortable. After experiencing a cashmere-lining, I don’t think I’ll go back to anything else.

The only thing missing that I wish had been a part of the experience is an MTM option. My fingers are disproportionately short for the size of my palm, leaving me a bit too much room in each glove. Fratelli Orsini’s sizing is based only on palm width. While offering MTM versions would obviously increase the price, men like me would be happy to jump on it.

At $100 they aren’t cheap, but they aren’t prohibitively expensive either. These are a one-time investment that will last for years to come.

Wolverine 100 Mile:Mens Fall/Winter Footwear Boots
Clothing

Image and Substance

2
9 January, 2014

It’s easy for us to think that we live in a time like no other. Our advances in technology, the pervasiveness of democracy, the modern contempt for gods and religion, are all relatively unique when seen through an historical lens. At the same time, human nature changes little and even the rise and fall of entire societies is cyclical – we just have to look back far enough.

I say this because the lamentation of the way things are is often proclaimed with the addendum that it’s something new to this generation, this country, this society, etc. I don’t really believe that’s the case. While the successes and failures of any given person or culture may manifest themselves differently, the things that create these results have most likely been a part of human history since the beginning.

One aspect that I believe has been near-ubiquitous is the playing of extremes against the middle. We see this in politics, in “class warfare,” the battle of the sexes, and we even see it in the relationship between image and substance.

Because image and appearance is more closely associated with a woman’s value (for better and worse), let’s start by evaluating there.

Any normal man has women in his life. It may be family, friends, current lovers or former, in-laws, siblings, at least co-workers. All of these women are constantly being given conflicting information about the importance of their appearance.

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The most common trope is that a woman should do all that she can to maximize her beauty. Billions of dollars are spent on makeup, clothing, diets, gym memberships, magazine subscriptions, lingerie, and other means to accomplishing the end of beauty.

While it’s not the responsibility of companies involved in the beauty industry to talk about the importance of substance, too many women forget to develop other essential parts of their character in their attempt to become a modern-day Venus.

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However, these same women are then bombarded with counter philosophies and arguments. Things like fat acceptance and thin shaming attempt to completely turn the beauty paradigm on its head. Other philosophies, like the idea that image doesn’t matter and anyone who focuses on it is shallow and materialistic allow average or lazy women to justify their apathy or minimal efforts in presenting themselves as beautifully as possible.

This may be a smaller voice but it’s prevalent. I believe the balance between the two to be about 80% pro traditional beauty 20% anti or indifferent to time-proven standards of beauty. These ratios make sense when we understand that men are visual creatures and one of our primary attractors is a woman’s physical appearance and fitness.

What’s interesting though, is the same thing happens with the world of men. The overall emphasis on a man’s appearance (or lack thereof) is much smaller than it is for women, but that’s because a man’s looks aren’t as important in attracting women as hers are for him. It doesn’t mean they’re not a factor, they’re just not the number one or two priority.

Men are given different instructions and in harsher tones.

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From clear back in the Victorian era (if not before), being overly concerned with his appearance meant a man was considered to be gay. The term Dandy was short for Dandelion, which is an older term along the lines of “queer” today.

slob

At the same time, respectable men have always looked down on those who didn’t dress consciously or show any concern for their outward appearance. Outsiders were either identified as slobs or barbarians, and much of this was easily detected by the way the man appeared.

The point of all this is to illustrate the idea that it has been historically very easy to convince men and women to separate image and substance. By focusing on the extremes of image, whether in favor or opposed to its importance, it becomes all too easy to separate image from its primary function – demonstrating substance.

The modern, equalist movement wants to remove all meaning from image, whereas the image industry wants to ascribe the highest value in life to the realm of aesthetics. One claims there is no substance in image. The other says there is no substance but image. Both are wrong.

Yes there’s some nuance to it, but that’s the gist.

A man’s image should demonstrate his substance not replace it or have nothing to do with it.

While physical appearance may not have as strong of a bearing on a man as it does on a woman, it is wise to understand there is value in it. We as men should be focused primarily on cultivating our character and substance. We should build on masculine virtues like strength, mastery, and honor, and the way in which we present ourselves to the rest of the world should reflect the development of those traits.

So don’t get so caught up in image that it becomes an end to itself. Yes dressing well, having a good physique, and being well-groomed are all to a man’s advantage, but not when they are inconsistent with or come at the expense of his character.

Florsheim

Musings

New Year New Goals

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7 January, 2014

I know first hand how easy it can be to get cynical about setting goals for yourself in the new year. The gym this week has been full of resolutioners that I’m hoping will all have given up and quit so I can go back to a regular routine and not have to compete for the free weights.

But if we ignore the hype, the marketing, the failures, and all of the other negative aspects of reinventing ourselves at the beginning of each year, we can see the original intent. A man should constantly be striving for improvement. There’s something inherently ungrateful about satisfaction with where we are. It implies that we’re content with our results moreso than with our abilities to get results. One is a focus on things, the other is a focus on who we are as men.

While I have my own list of personal goals I’m still setting and developing, I have a few for the site I’d like to share with my readers. I’ve heard pros and cons to publishing goals. Some argue it gives us the satisfaction of feeling like we’ve accomplished them before we actually do so. I however, feel that making you all aware of my goals makes me more accountable to accomplish them. So here’s what I’m planning to make happen this next year.

Focus more on the “Masculine” of Masculine Style

As I’ve mentioned before, there’s only so much that can be said about dressing classically. The rules and guidelines have existed for years with only minor tweaks and variations. Other style-focused blogs will tend to go in one of two directions – either a focus on what’s fashionable and trendy, or going into nitty-gritty details that appeal more to men who consider clothing as a hobby than just an everyday part of life.

I’ll be the first to admit that I’ve been tempted and have even dabbled in both of those approaches. I also will continue to do so. Just because a man wants to dress timelessly doesn’t mean he can’t or shouldn’t capitalize on a trend when it’s in his best interest. Nor does a man’s comparative lack of passion for #menswear mean he won’t benefit from a deeper understanding of what goes into his clothing and why it looks the way it does.

However, my focus has always been about the exploration of clothing as an expression of masculinity. As a result, my audience is different from most other style blogs. If I want to dive deeper into the aesthetic effects of maleness and masculinity, I also want to better understand what it means to be a man.

Many of my new posts will be musings in this regard. I don’t write from an authoritative perspective, because I’m not a master of masculinity. Rather, this will become a place to explore philosophy and build on the self-improvement that comes from attempting to be a better man.

As a result, I’ll be expecting more comments and conversation on these posts. Which leads me to my next goal.

Respond more quickly and more often to comments

This is not a strong suit of mine. I read every comment that comes up on the blog, but, if I’m not in a position to respond immediately, I often forget to do so. If I want this to be a format that better fosters discussion, I need to be the first person to take that step and respond when you guys reach out to me.

Site Redesign

It’s long overdue. When this was just a fledgling blog, the theme I chose was a great option that omitted everything that would distract from the content. However, as things have grown into a business and a more in-depth approach to the subject, this same layout has become a perfect example of sacrificing function for the sake of form.

Plan on a design that will still be minimal, but will also allow for better navigation and more structure.

Finish the Staples series and create an eBook

I only have a few of these left to do. The big delay in finalizing these last posts has been finding companies to sponsor each staple and to work out time with a photographer. While earlier on I was able to write these quickly and just use cell-phone pictures my wife shot, this has become my biggest draw and deserves more professionalism.

Once I have the final Staple post finished, I’ll be going through and re-writing them, along with taking professional photos for all, and compiling them into an eBook. This will be a great way for me to get new readers and an easy way for both new and existing readers to know which items they should have in their wardrobes.

Expand into writing about fitness and grooming

These are two areas where I have seen (or at least am starting to see) a lot of personal growth. I’m no expert in either of these fields, so this may involve guest posts or just a ton of research on my part throughout the year. Expect posts on diet, exercise, hair cuts, smells, etc. I’ll never be the metro guy who moisturizes each night and gets manicures, but there’s a minimal level of grooming each man should take advantage of to present himself in the best light possible.

Increase blogger outreach

The plan is to have this be something that goes both ways. Meaning I’ll have more guest posts and interviews with bloggers here, along with outreach to blog for other sites and work with podcasters.

Increase newsletter scope and frequency

Right now I’m putting out a newsletter about once a month. While I don’t want to spam your inboxes, I do want to reach out more frequently. By the end of the first quarter, I hope to have a rhythm that will allow me to send one out every other week.

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One thing many of you may notice is missing from this list is “write a book.” This is still a long-term goal, but not one that I can feasibly see happening this year. As Beckett & Robb continues to grow, my responsibilities within the company expand as well. We’re at that unique stage where there’s more work than there is enough staff to handle it all – so each one of us is responsible for multiple things. Pair that with my family (which will see an increase of one by March) and my own fitness and personal goals, and you get a picture that doesn’t have enough room for a full book. I don’t want to just crank something out for the sake of doing so. It’ll happen. It may even happen this year, but it’s not a reasonable goal for me to set right now.

Essentially, I feel like the last two years have had a great focus on the bullseye of my target. It’s not perfect, but I have a good base that can still see some fleshing out and refinement. However, I now have the opportunity to expand out by a ring or two, increasing the scope by which both masculinity and style are perceived by men of the world. I’m looking forward to this year.

Bespoken:Sweatshirts Pants
Clothing

Alexander Before and After

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19 December, 2013

I haven’t done one of these in a while, but I have a client who’s had some great results with one of my Online Consultations. Here’s what he sent me as part of the ordering process.

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He was already conscious of the way he dressed, and was doing better than most when it comes to taking risks and proper proportions. However, the colors he was wearing were wrong for his skin tone and the fit still left something to be desired.

We’ve been working together since September and here are a few pics that he just sent me this week. Notice the different in the fit, the coloring, and the overall presence it gives him.

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This is the reason I write this blog and offer consultations. I love seeing men make the transition from well intentioned to well dressed. In the before pictures, you’ll notice that his skin looks ashen and wan. Just by choosing colors that are flattering to his skin tone, he looks healthy and even a bit more tan.

The baggy shirts and pleated pants from before have been replaced by items that were custom made to fit his body. They follow his natural lines and give you an idea of who the man is who’s wearing the clothing.

We’ve still got a few more items to look for, but I’m excited to see this much progress and look forward to working with him more in the future.

If you’re interested in a similar change for yourself or someone you know, check out my Services Page.

Wolverine 100 Mile:Boots Mens Fall/Winter Footwear
Clothing, Reader Submissions

What to Wear for Christmas Dinner

10 December, 2013

The time between Thanksgiving and New Year’s is packed full of family events. Unfortunately, the dress code for these types of events can be difficult to navigate.

This increases as a man has more and more dinners to attend. It’s not unheard of for some families to try to juggle three different meals, with three different groups of families, all in one day.

And to take it even further, each dinner or get-together may have an entirely different feel. Here’s an example from my own life.

My wife and I grew up literally less than half a mile away from each other. We come from similar economic backgrounds, the same religious background, and obviously live in the same climate. All of those factors being equal doesn’t change the fact that our two families have entirely different expectations for holiday meals.

My family tends to function on structure. I remember when we would get together for Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner at my grandma’s house and resenting the fact that we’d have to wear button-up shirts and sweaters. My mom would comb our hair and make sure our shirts were tucked in. While dinner with my parents isn’t as strict as it was with the grandparents, we still fall more into the Rockwell-esque painting of Dad at the head of the table, everyone sitting in their place, table decor that is appropriately tasteful and seasonal without being overwhelming, and a feeling that’s more formal.

Contrast this with my wife’s family. While Christmas dinner is a bigger deal than the standard Sunday meal, it’s still organized chaos. My wife’s family is a group of people who treats anyone like blood as soon as they cross the threshold, so we never really know who’s going to be there for Christmas dinner. It may be her sister’s boyfriend, a neighbor lady from down the street, extended family of aunts and grandparents, or even just another sibling’s roommate. It’s not a rare occurrence for someone in the family to be at the table in sweats and a T-shirt. However, what my wife’s family lacks in formality, they more than make up for  when it comes to an inviting atmosphere and spontaneous, heartfelt conversation.

It would be silly to change clothes in the couple of hours between the two meals with our families. As important as a man’s clothing can be, I’m not one who subscribes to the idea that clothing needs to be changed as soon  as the venue does. This is especially true when both of our families live an hour away from us and each other (my parents have since moved).

So it’s in my best interest, as I’m sure it’s in many of yours, to wear something this Christmas that will be as comfortable and versatile as it can be. The principle of High/Low is our best rubric for a day like this, and here’s what I’ve come up with.

Christmas Dinner

Cords: Corduroy’s origination can be traced as far back as ancient Egypt. Its name is even believed to be a poor English translation of the french corde du roi or “cloth of the king.” With roots like that, it’s a cloth that is appropriate and at home for the formal family. At the same time, this weave that was once only available to kings became a workwear staple during the industrial revolution. Cords are rugged and durable – making them ideal for a family dinner that’s more casual. Opt for them in a dark, neutral color like the brown above and stick with a wale (the size of the ridge) between eight and 14. The lower the number, the thicker the ridge and the more casual it appears.

Oxford Cloth Button Down: There are few pieces of clothing as versatile as the OCBD. These shirts are seen on men in presidential tours and on teenagers at band practice. I’d tuck it in while I’m with the more formal family and untuck it in the casual environment. It will be comfortable, warm, and breathable either way. Stick with a soft shade like white, blue, or lavender and make sure to leave the top two buttons undone.

Peacoat: A man needs to stay warm while traveling between dinners. Many families don’t just stick around inside either. The peacoat has its origination in the Navy. It’s casual enough that it can be worn while out chopping down a Christmas tree, but – if it’s well-tailored – is still dressed up enough that it will be consistent with the rest of this look as well. Navy is the most versatile shade, but versions in grey, charcoal, and camel are great as well.

Shawl Collar Cardigan: The beauty of layers is that they can be shed easily. That removability is what makes the sweater the lynch pin in this whole setup. This is what I’d wear with my family and then get rid of while I’m with my wife’s. It dresses the whole look up by having it, and ditching it keeps everything else laid back and relaxed.

Casual Watch: A simple watch with a neutral nato strap is appropriate in most environments. While dinner with a family like mine may feel more formal, we’re still not in an office or black-tie scenario. A casual watch won’t stand out in either.

Marled Socks: These are a nod to the weather. Thicker socks are going to be warm and more comfortable. The marled pattern also dresses them down. While it’s ideal for the relaxed atmosphere, it also plays well with the High/Low look of a formal one. Socks (like the watch) are such a small detail that they’re a great way to sneak in casual elements.

Winter Boots: These are a total cheater item. With real winter boots like these, it’s fairly obvious you’re going to be taking them off at the front door and not wearing them while inside. It’s a great way to avoid being too stiff with a family like mine or too formal with a family like my wife’s. They’re also the best shoes for transit between families and other outdoor activities throughout the day.

Nudie:Clothing selvedge
Clothing

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