Of all the questions I get from readers, the most common are typically related to grooming. “What kind of hair product do you use,” “How do you grow a beard,” and “What kind of soap should I be using,” are all pretty good examples of common questions.

A lot of grooming is as dependent on the individual as style is. There are factors like hair and skin types that make a big difference in what products work for what men. That being said, a basic grooming routine can be applied with a variety of products and benefit most men.

So here’s what I do. I’m not saying this is the only way to do things or even the best, but it’s what I’ve found works for me.

Body

First off, I shower every day. The rare occasion in which I skip a shower leaves me feeling sticky and dirty. It throws off my game and I hate it, so I shower every morning after getting home from the gym.

I also use soap every day. For years I’ve been using this all-purpose soap from Dr. Bronner’s. I first read about it in GQ a few years back and thought I’d give it a try. I’ve been through most of the different scents and enjoy them all, but the peppermint and eucalyptus are my favorite.

That massive brush is a relatively new addition to my routine. I’ve never been one to exfoliate. It seemed superfluous to me, but my wife bought me a brush like this about six months ago and I figured I’d try it out. If a man has never exfoliated before, it’s not pleasant at first. I hated it. But after a week I really started to enjoy it. It scrubs out dead skin and oil to really get my skin clean. I use it every other day because doing so too often will make my body go into overdrive on oil production – which leads to break outs. I’ll just pour the soap on, scrub the crap out of my whole body, and rinse off.

The Barbasol and Gillette razor are for my back and shoulders. While I’m a big advocate of letting most body hair grow, I hate seeing it on my neck, shoulders, and back. It doesn’t come in very thick and ends up looking more sloppy than rugged. Once every other week or so I’ll have the wife clean me up back there. Because I don’t have to shave all that often, It’s not a big deal for me to use one of the more expensive razors. I go through a couple of blade cartridges a year and it’s much easier for my wife to use those than my safety razor.

As for deodorant, I’m happy with the basic Brut deodorant found at most grocery stores. It’s cheap and effective, and I have yet to be convinced of the value of a more expensive brand. Some men may need and antiperspirant or a clear gel, but the old-school works just fine for me. My wife loves the smell too.

Hair

My hair routine is fairly simple as well. Unlike with my body, I only shampoo and condition my hair every other day. This allows for the natural oils in my hair to do their job.

A while back Mr. Pompadour reached out to me and offered to send me a few of their products to try out. The pomades they sent left my hair too crunch and didn’t hold as well as I’d like (more on that in a minute), but they won me over with their shampoo and conditioner. Both do their jobs well, smell great, and leave my hair feeling clean and healthy, instead of just stripped down. I’d been using American Crewe before, but am now in Mr. Pompadour camp.

The pomade I’m currently (and will probably forever be) using is called Royal Palms. The guy who runs the company is a barber based out of Salt Lake City. The barber shop I used to frequent had me try it out one day and I was hooked. The thing about my hair is that it’s extremely thick, course, and straight. It’s very obedient once I get it trained, but getting it to do what I want initially is a serious pain. I’m going through this again as I’m growing it out and have to teach it to lay down in certain places.

In order for me to have any success with my hair in the past, I’ve had to use products more on the extreme side. Things with high hold and beeswax, or even products like Murphy’s that are targeted towards a different demographic with hair even more difficult than mine. The problem with these products is that they either leave my hair extremely crunchy or greasy to the point of embarrassment. However, this Royal Palms stuff holds it like I want, and actually keeps my hair soft and pliable. I can run my hands through my hair all day without them getting trapped and without it ruining the way my hair looks. Win win.

A simple comb does the job for me. A lot of men will blow dry, brush, or use other tools, but all I need is a little plastic comb. I have one in my briefcase and another in my car just in case.

Shaving

Because I have a beard, I only shave once a week. And yes, a man should still shave when he has a beard. I clean up my neck and cheeks each Sunday morning. Because it’s not a daily chore, I take the time to do it a bit more traditionally, with shave cream, a badger brush, and a safety razor. Both the brush and the razor were gifts given to my by family and both do their jobs excellently. I recommend going with a badger-hair brush over boar hair. It costs a bit more, but it’s not an item that needs frequent replacement.

In the past I’ve used different shave soaps but am currently liking a cream offered by Lucky Tiger. It’s a bit “thirstier” than other creams I’ve used – meaning it requires more water to build the ideal lather – but does a great job of creating a smooth shave. Depending on what mood I’m in, I alternate between hot and cold shaves. Both have their strengths and weaknesses. Once I’m done, I rinse off and throw on a bit of Lucky Tiger’s after shave (along with some lotion).

Beard

Beard care is a bit of a new realm for me. While I’ve sported facial hair since 2007, it was always short enough that it just required trimming. However, I’ve started to enjoy wearing it a bit longer, and this requires some oil to keep my face from itching.

As for trimming, I use this little Conair piece. I’m 90% sure my mom grabbed this for me for $15 on a TJ Maxx run about 10 years ago. It’s got attachments for nose hair and mustache trimming, along with all of the necessary pieces for trimming my beard to different lengths and cleaning the machinery. I’m sure there are much better (and more expensive) offerings available, but this has served me well for a long time.

As for beard oil, I just got a shipment of stuff from a friend who runs a company called Can You Handlebar. I’ve been alternating between a few different scents, and they’re all fantastic. The oil keeps the hair smooth and malleable, gives it a bit of sheen, and prevents my face from getting itchy. An oil is a must for a man who’s just starting to grow his beard out and hates the itch.

When my beard is short, I just use the same Lucky Tiger face wash. When it’s longer, I’ll shampoo and condition it with the Mr. Pompadour stuff I use in my hair. Again, I’m sure there are better ways to go and beard-specific products would have their advantage, but this has been good enough for me for the last year.

Lastly, a longer beard needs to be combed just like hair. In the past, I’ve used the comb attachment that’s included in my shaving kit. However, I just bought this little beard comb as part of an order from Frank & Oak, and I love the thing. It’s bigger than what I was using, meaning it feels more substantial in my hand, but the teeth are still fine enough and short enough to work well on a beard.

So there it is. As I said before, I shower every day. On the days I shampoo and condition my hair, I rinse off with water that’s as cold as I can stand and don’t use the bath brush. On the other days, I do use the bath brush and rinse off cool. Face wash and beard oil are used every day, and I trim my beard and shave once a week.

Oh, and I brush my teeth twice a day. Can’t forget that all-important detail.

I’ll start off this post by saying that today’s review item is not something I believe the majority of my readers are currently in need of. However, for the subset to which this bag applies, it’s a game changer.

Except for the relatively new readers, most of my following is aware that I’m a father of two young kids. I have a daughter who is just over two and a son at five months.

One of the more unique experiences of being a new dad is going through a baby registry. It’s the same thing as getting registered for a wedding. Essentially the two of you go to a baby-specific shop, scan all the items you think you need when the little one comes, and hope that enough people throw/attend baby showers for your wife that you get everything you need.

Most men have no interest in being involved with any of that, and I totally get it. The way I see it though, I spend plenty of time in my kids’ room and with them, so I want to like what I see both in my home and on their bodies.

As one can imagine, everything is extremely geared towards the moms. Again, no qualms with this – they’re the largest consumer of baby products and they’re also more invested in details like this than most fathers. However, there are a few items that can and do reflect equally on the father – things like the stroller being pushed, the car seat, and most of all, the diaper bag.

Any soon-to-be-dad can tell himself he won’t have to deal with diapers, and any existing father can chuckle internally at how idealistic that assumption is. The truth of it is, there are times when a dad will (and should) have his young kids on his own. It may be a quick trip to the store, a day at the park, or a weekend on his own while his wife is away. Doesn’t matter what it is, a dad will be without his wife, and with his kids in public. And the last thing he wants is a bag like this.

And trust me, I see plenty of dads carrying around these bags. It’s emasculating. It subtly tells the kids, the dad, and the people around him, that he’s a substitute mom at best. He’s second string for when the starter is off the field. He’s just an accessory, not a key component in the family. Basically, it reinforces all of the things we’ve been subtly and not-so-subtly been told about fatherhood for the last 20+ years.

There’s an obvious market hole to be filled here. However, most results on a search for “dad diaper bags” are pretty disheartening. There is entirely too much in the way of camo, skull and crossbones, hot-rod flames, and other “manly” things. They’re purses with stupid attempts at looking cool instead of dignified. Those that are closer to getting it right still have to have something tacky added on like “Daddy’s Little Project.” I may be hypersensitive to the issue, but the cutesy stuff just doesn’t work. Neither do the attempts at being the cool-guy dad. And don’t get me started on all of the sports related options. The idea that a purse somehow becomes more masculine because it has a team logo is even more annoying. If a dad plays for the Broncos, then he can have a Broncos bag. The rest of us should have enough going on for ourselves that our identity doesn’t come from the accomplishments of other men.

Anyway… when we had our daughter we ended up picking out a bag that wasn’t embarrassing for either one of us to carry around and got the job done. It was unassuming but was also pretty boring and looked like a compromise for both of us.

It also only lasted about a year and a half.

When we found out there was going to be a number two, my wife jumped at the chance to get a new option. The plan was for me to make an existing travel bag work when I was on my own, and to let her have something girly since she carried it most of the time. It was a good plan, but not a great one, so I started my hunt for a decent dad bag again.

After spending way too much time online, I stumbled upon Copper River Bags on a friend’s Instagram account. He had one of their camera options and I liked what I saw. I initially checked out the site interested in some briefcase options when I was pleasantly surprised to see they offered diaper bags.

After a couple of emails back and forth, they decided to send me one. While the totes and field bags are better for the more Rakish dad in an urban environment, I got pretty excited about the Georgetown Voyager.

It comes in six different colors of leather with either a leather or cotton shoulder strap. All of the interior details that make it a great diaper bag, like padded, alterable, water-resistant liners are removable. There’s room enough for 20+ diapers and a pack of wipes, toys for the kids, enough for two days plus snacks, extra pockets for bottles and water, interior pockets for things like medicine and treats, and a back flap that will hold a newspaper, magazine, or iPad.

Basically it’s enough to get me and my kids through a weekend without my wife. Once the kids are grown up, all of the diaper-bag-specific options like the lining and changing pad can be removed and it will function great as a camera or messenger bag. So win-win.

I run with a lot of dad’s in my circle and the envy factor is undeniable. Every single one has seen me with it, commented how cool my new messenger was, and then audibly freaked out once I opened it up and showed them it was a diaper bag. None of them had even an inkling of its intended purpose before I showed them the inside – which is exactly what I believe a dad-appropriate diaper bag should do.

It also looks appropriate with everything I wear. From jeans and a T on a Saturday, to a full suit. Since I’m with my kids in my full wardrobe spectrum, this was another mark in Copper River’s favor.

The only thing I would have liked to see that wasn’t included was some sort of insulated pocketing to keep drinks cool. Other than that, this thing has exceeded my expectations.

Add to its look and functionality the fact that its hand-made right here in the US, and I couldn’t be happier with it. Oh, and at $175, it’s as much as your average box-store diaper bag.

Also known as “Beak Doctors” these were “physicians” who were hired by communities to treat those infected with the Bubonic Plague. I use quotations around the word physician because many of these doctors were actually men who were unable to qualify to start their own medical practice and were relegated to dealing with the Black Death. There are even accounts of some Plague Doctors having no medical training whatsoever.

Because they were paid by the town and communities in which they worked, they treated anyone who was infected, not simply those who could afford it on their own. As one can imagine, the profession of Beak Doctor was extremely dangerous and had a high mortality rate.

While their robes and appearance are creepy, almost every aspect of their clothing served both a functional and stylistic purpose.

The most distinguishing feature of any Plague Doctor was the beaked mask. The Bubonic Plague was rampant during a time when very little was understood about disease. As a result, doctors would look to both the physical and spiritual realms in attempts to cure their patients. The off-putting appearance of the masks was designed to scare off demons who could be the source of the Plague. At the same time, the beaks were filled with amber, cloves, myrrh, mint-leaves, rose petals, and other spices to prevent the doctor from breathing infected air. This upped their tolerance for time spent with rotting bodies and was also believed to protect them from the “evil air” they were surrounded with and could have caused the Plague.

The eyepieces on the masks served a similar function. Instead of a simple opening, darkened or red glass lenses were used. While they made detailed examination difficult, their purpose was to protect doctors from infection via the “evil eye.” At the time, one of the theories was that the demons who caused the Death could not only transfer from body to body through the air, but through eye contact as well.

The second-most noticeable aspect of the Beak Doctors’ attire was the long, black robe. While dress standards of the day were much more modest and covering than what we currently wear, the head-to-toe coverings served more of a practical function than social. The cloth used in the robes was waxed – meaning the doctor was protected from any liquid-based contagions. Although the belief was strong that supernatural forces were at work in transmitting the disease, these doctors were also willing to admit that they didn’t know the exact cause. Rather than adhere to strict dogma, they created methods, like the waxed robes, to prevent contact with as many potential sources as possible.

Lastly, the doctors would carry a staff in yet another attempt to distance themselves from the infected as much as possible. Staffs were used to examine bodies and even help take the pulse of infected men and women. The doctors did wear gloves, but the staff was another level of protection agains potential infection. There are even documented cases of times when the staffs were used as weapons to fend off desperate patients.

The entire ensemble struck the perfect balance between form and function. The creepy factor was intended to scare off evil spirits and to clearly demarcate the doctors from the rest of the healthy population. At the same time, each detail served a practical purpose as well. These doctors are an excellent example of how clothing can be used to accomplish multiple purposes.

Manifestos have been used by men and organizations for millennia. They are a way to solidify ideals and to make goals and aspirations feel more tangible. They have been used by individuals, businesses, governments, fraternal organizations, and many other groups of men to help their members improve their lives.

As Masculine Style continues to grow, our little group becomes more and more like a family. Through my coaching plans and newsletters, I’ve had the opportunity to get to know many of you on a personal level. We’re more than just a blog with readers, we’re an organization.

So I decided it was time we had our own manifesto.

I am an intentional man.

I live my life deliberately in all areas and this attitude is apparent in my dress and appearance.

I understand that my image communicates how much respect I have for myself and how much I expect others to have for me.

I refuse to give in to the apathy of dressing like a slob and reject the cowardice of dressing ironically.

I have learned the rules and know how to break them. What I don’t know, I am willing to learn. What I do know, I am willing to apply.

My intentions are as visible in my casual clothing as they are in a suit. There is no hesitation in what I wear or what it says about me.

I can distinguish between timeless & trendy, and use these differences to accomplish my aesthetic goals. I am not limited in my spectrum or its application.

Clothes do not make me the man I am. They never have and they never will, but they do contribute to my reputation and how I am perceived by others.

If you’d like a stylized PDF of this manifesto for your desktop, to print up and keep in your closet, or to share with friends and family, just submit your name and email in the boxes on the top right of the page. It’s free and is a great reminder of why we take our appearance so seriously.

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, the name Harvey Specter should ring a bell. For those who don’t know, he’s one of the two main characters in USA’s lawyer drama “Suits.” The show centers around him and his genius/fraud protege Mike Ross and takes the ever popular approach of telling broader stories over series and seasons while tying up neat little plot lines in each episode.

The thing that makes Specter such a strong character is how damn confident the man is.

“What are your choices when someone puts a gun to your head? What are you talking about? You do what they say or they shoot you. WRONG. You take the gun, or you pull out a bigger one. Or, you call their bluff. Or, you do any one of a hundred and forty six other things.”

The man handles conflict and competition with an obscene amount of self assuredness and, while he’s flawed and imperfect, he doesn’t have the dark side of more popular anti-heroes like Don Draper or Walter White. In fact, as the show has progressed, more and more of Specters virtues and integrity come into play.

As can be expected, a senior partner in a top-tier New York law firm, is not going to be decked out in some Jos A Bank, buy-one-get-seven-free type suit. A major aspect of his commanding presence is the way he dresses. While a first-year associate may be overstepping his bounds by adopting the full Harvey Specter uniform, there are a few cues that can be followed to great effect when trying to appear more confident, powerful, and masculine in a suit.

“People respond to how you dress so like it or not this is what you have to do.”

There are quite a few existing articles that attempt to break down Specter’s sartorial approach, but most only touch on the surface level – and the devil is in the details. It’s pretty easy to notice the vest, spread-collar shirt, and windsor tie knot. But it’s the finer points that really make his statements for him. Here’s how to really pull it off.

The Suit

While not always the case, Specter does have a default of a three-piece suit. The vest (or waistcoat) is single breasted and always of the same cloth as the suit – which communicates a level of formality and attention to detail more specifically than a simple two-piece or a suit with an odd vest. The uniformity of the cloth also creates a stronger contrast against his shirts and keeps the attention on him, not his clothes.

The cloth is always of a conservative or business variety. While he does occasionally embrace the subtle pinstripe, the majority of Specters suits are solid, dark colors. The cloth also appears to mostly be piece-dyed – meaning it was woven as one bolt of cloth and then colored after the fact. This creates more uniformity in the color and typically a bit more sheen as well.

The fit is spot on. It follows his natural lines and allows those who see him to know he’s a man who keeps himself in shape. However, they’re not so skinny that they appear casual or trendy. Unlike the Gordon Gekko power suits of the 80’s, Specter’s suits accentuate the good of what’s there, as opposed to creating a false appearance by adding visual heft with massive shoulders or excessive cloth. It communicates a more natural presence because Specter himself looks imposing, instead of scrawny and compensating.

He almost always wears a wider peak lapel. Both the type and the width of the lapel work to his advantage. While a peak is a bit more formal, it still sits solidly within the business world. It’s more attention-seeking than a notch, and needs to be worn by a man who’s comfortable with that attention being on him. The shape of the peak also contributes to a more masculine V-taper. It visually draws the viewer’s eyes up and out, making Specter’s shoulders appear broader and helping him look taller overall. By opting for a wider lapel, this effect is accentuated even more. A narrow option would look dainty next to his naturally broad shoulders.

Other details are minimal. He rotates through suits with and without ticket pockets but never wears anything that detracts from where he wants the attention – on him. No loud buttons, contrasting button holes, elbow patches, or other more-casual details. These are strictly business suits.

The Shirt

Although he does wear patterned shirts in the early seasons, he defaults more and more often to simple whites or light blues as the series goes on. This serves the same effect as the simplicity of his suits; it keeps the attention of the viewer on his face.

Not only does Specter wear a semi-spread collar, it’s tall. By looming more out of his jacket it makes everything beneath his head look larger, again contributing the V-shape most men are after when wearing a power suit. The collar’s height also allows him to wear a larger knot when he has a tie, and keeps it standing properly when he’s tieless.

Although he’s not seen without a jacket very often, the fit of his shirts is exactly as proportionate as his suits. There are no stress lines or pressure points that are indicative of a shirt being too small, but it also communicates exactly what kind of shape he’s in.

The Tie

“Get your skinny tie out of my face and get to work.”

There is nothing small or slight about Specter’s ties. They are large and the windsor knot makes them take up a significant amount of space within his collar. With the four-in-hand being such a staple amongst men who wear ties more casually, the windsor or double windsor contributes to the formality and brook-no-nonsense tone that’s already been established by Specter’s suits and shirts.

While the ties’ size and knots may be bold, their color and patterning are not. He always wear silks and, while he may embrace subtle patterns or the occasional strong color like red, there is nothing distracting about the cloth chosen for each tie. Yet again, this serves the purpose of keeping all attention on Specter himself. The ties frame his face without distracting from it.

The Grooming

Unfortunately Specter’s hair gets worse after a couple of seasons. What starts off as a strong, Mad-Men-reminiscient side part gets swapped out for a boyish faux hawk. His earlier styles are more consistent with the seriousness of his overall appearance and his attitude.

Specter is always clean shaven. The beard is making a strong comeback for men in the Western world, but he understands the dedication and attention to detail that are expressed by shaving each and every morning.

His face isn’t perfect. He has a couple of visible moles that could most likely be taken care of rather easily with minimally invasive surgery. However, by not being too preened or pampered, he avoids looking like a sop who takes his appearance too far and relies on it alone to get the job done.

The Rest

Shoes and jewelry are kept to a minimum. He almost always wears a pocket square but it’s a simple white with a TV fold that just peaks out of his breast pocket. Specter’s entire appearance is pure Refined. There is no Rake or Rugged to his business suits. By committing so strongly to a particular archetype, it shows how strongly confident he is in who he is, what he does, and how to dress for it.

Let’s be honest though, the real reason Specter is so compelling is because of the strength of the man behind the clothes. Specter’s a jerk, but he’s fundamentally a good person. He’s loyal to his friends and respectfully ruthless with his competition. If you want to learn more about how masculinity ties in with clothing, and how Specter is more than just a mannequin in great suits, sign up for the newsletter.

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If you liked this post, you should check out my breakdown of how to dress like Neal Caffrey from White Collar.