What to Pack for a Business Trip

10 July, 2014

It’s an experience every man should have, and most of us probably will. There’s something different about flying into another city or even a different country when it’s done on business instead of vacation. Here’s what every man should bring along.

Navy Suit

Kind of a cheater move since it’s not really going to be packed. For the sake of dignified air travel and keeping his suit in top form, it’s best to wear this on the plane. Unless the flight is completely packed, most attendants are willing to hang up the jacket while in the air, allowing for a more comfortable ride and fewer wrinkles in the suit.

The reason for navy is because it’s easier to pair the jacket with some of the other items in his bag. A lot of men will want to go explore the city they’re in when they’re not on the clock and a blue blazer works great day or night.

White Button-Up Shirt

Appropriate for both business meetings and going out at night, a white shirt is a blank canvas that could honestly be worn every day of the trip without anyone noticing (as long as it doesn’t smell too bad). Most men shy away from white because they consider it boring, but it’s my go-to color whenever I have to make a shirt last as many days as possible.

Blue OCBD

While white is the king of versatility, a blue oxford cloth button down comes in a very close second. The OCBD is great while meeting with clients but casual enough it can be worn with shorts or even a pair of swim trunks when headed to the beach or hotel pool.

Loafers/Monk Straps

Which of these a man chooses will depend on the formality and overall feel of his business. However, if at all possible, both are better than lace ups for the simple fact that they make airport security a whole lot easier. I even leave the top strap of my monks unbuckled when I’m in the airport to make it simple to simply slide them off and back on, allowing me to get out of the hell hole that is the TSA as quickly as possible.

Chinos/Jeans

Even I don’t want to wear a suit all the time. Chinos will dress up more than a pair of jeans but both can be made fairly work appropriate when paired with the navy jacket, a tie, and one of the button-up shirts. They can also both be worn casually when off the clock and around town.

Underwear/Socks/Ties

While it’s obvious that these need to be included, it’s best to bring one pair more than the expected number of travel days. They take up minimal space, and one can never tell when he’ll have to throw on an extra pair or swap out one tie for another.

Dopp Kit

Should be fairly obvious how important one of these little guys is. I always try to remember to pack extra Q-tips and have found that the shampoo/conditioner/body wash bottles that are provided by most hotels are the perfect size to keep in my kit. They don’t take up too much space and fall within TSA regulations, meaning I can keep this in a carry-on bag rather than having to check it.

There are a ton of great companies who make some excellent dopp kits, but this cheap version from Target has been with me for seven years and thousands of miles.

Swim Trunks

There will always been some down time, and it’s crucial that it be taken advantage of. On my most recent trip to Guatemala, everything we did occurred in the same hotel. Being able to spend some time relaxing in the pool made it feel less confining and even a little bit like a vacation.

These trunks from Cabana e Fogo are the best pair I’ve ever owned. They’re aggressively short without coming close to banana hammock territory, all pockets zip closed, they have a convenient loop for sunglasses, and even come with a water proof bag in which they can be stuffed after a swim. That little bag made it easier to pack for the return trip home without having to worry about getting everything else in my bag wet or having to steel a garbage liner from the hotel.

Sunglasses

While unnecessary on the plane or in the office, a great pair of shades will help keep travel throughout the remainder of the trip comfortable. Stick with something classic and stylish like these Wayfarers.

Pajamas

Even if a man sleeps in the buff, pajamas are a necessity. I’d hate to have to throw on jeans and a button-up shirt as I was evacuating a building because some kid pulled the fire alarm. They may never be used, but they take up little space and it’s better to have them than not.

Passport Cover

Going international? There is something infinitely more deliberate and well-seasoned about using a passport cover. This beauty from Chester Mox doubles up as a wallet and fits perfectly into the inner breast pocket of a suit jacket – making it a stylish way to carry all of a man’s info and money without having to purchase a pick-pocket fanny pack. Simply keep the breast pocket buttoned shut when not in use.

Watch

This is another tip that’s especially helpful for international travelers. Many men will keep their phones turned off as a way to avoid international charges – leaving them reliant on some other method of telling the time.

Casual Shoes

What pair? Depends on the man, the job, and the location. For some it may be a pair of bucks, and for others it’s the loudest Nike’s available. The point is to have something extra that can give his feet and his dress shoes a break during off hours without confining him to his hotel room or the pool.

Hat

It takes up very little space in a weekend or carryon bag and can be used as both an intentional item or simply to help out in emergencies. My go-to for travel is a seasonal drivers cap. Something in linen for summer and a heavy wool in the winter.

Deck of Cards

I’m the kind of man whose brain always has to be doing multiple things. Most of the time this means browsing on my phone. However, there are times when a man needs to disconnect from the tech world, while still giving his hands something to do. Whenever I need to unwind but sitting still is driving me crazy, I’ll play a classic game of solitaire. It can be done in coffee shops, hotel rooms, and even airplanes.

Everything in here will fit into a standard-sized carryon bag and is great for business trips of four days or shorter. If going for longer, it’s time to check a bag and start to double up on the necessities like a suit, shirts, etc.

Rugged, Refined, and Rakish Independence

2 July, 2014

While many of my readers are from different countries, the bulk of you are from the States. Friday we’ll be celebrating our Independence Day. And, without diving too deeply into the politics of that name and its increasingly ironic significance, I still believe it is a day worth celebrating.

So here are some tips on what to wear, regardless of the archetype in which a man finds himself.

Rugged

The key to a Rugged style has always been function over form. Long jeans and heavy boots may not be the most comfortable in the heat of summer, but they protect a man out in the woods or on the back of a motorcycle. The patriotism in this style is more inherent in the US-made products and the uniquely American aesthetic as opposed to an overwhelming demonstration of the stars and stripes.

Refined

If there’s ever a time for a man to embrace his inner WASP, this is it. Old money knows how to dress down while still keeping things tastefully Refined. And, just because he may not live in the Hamptons, doesn’t mean the Refined man can’t embrace the aesthetics of those who do. This style is typified by an unapologetic embrace of all things red, white, and blue. Oh, and there’s no such thing as too much Brooks Brothers.

The double monks and more aggressive fits keep this updated, but everything else in this look would have fit in on the 4th in 1959 and probably will in 2059 as well.

Rakish

As a counter to the Refined taste, the Rake understands how to use trends to his advantage. This look is overly casual, but will still communicate intention and taste when all of the items fit as they’re supposed to. Rakes are comfortable being a bit underdressed from both a formality and modesty perspective, so keeping the shorts above the knee and going sockless is what will hold this look together.

As always, a man should dress to both who he is and to his audience. Finding the correct balance may involve incorporating two or even all three archetypes together.

Don’t know which style best suits you? Head on over to my Coaching page to learn how I can teach you your correct archetype and how to dress accordingly.

Dressing the (Taller)Man

25 June, 2014

While most people don’t want to hear about it, being above six feet tall does come with its own difficulties in the realm of dressing well. For many men, finding something that is correct in length means they have to shop at big and tall stores. The problem with most of these places is that they’re not big OR tall, but big AND tall. These men are all ready at a disadvantage when it comes to proper proportions, and draping them in excess cloth is only going to exacerbate the problem.

However, starting with a small disadvantage doesn’t mean the tall man is completely out of luck. By following a few guidelines, he’ll be able to dial in his style as well as anyone else. Here’s what he can do:

Embrace the fact that he’s taller and that finding correct clothing is going to be more difficult than it is for shorter men. For tall men this is especially true because their height (at least for most of them) stems from one particular area being larger than the rest of his body. Some may have longer legs while others may have a larger torso, but it’s very rare that tall men are proportionately bigger than the rest of us. The purpose is never to appear shorter, it’s to look more evenly proportioned.
Establish a good relationship with a tailor and/or custom clothier. In order to properly work out issues like sleeve length, jacket length, and other proportions, it’s imperative that he have someone on whom he can rely to create or alter clothing so it fits as it should.
Contrary to popular belief, taller men are not relegated to three-button jackets. The key is focusing on correct button stance. If he’s more legs than chest, the stance should be low enough that it brings down the visual center of gravity. Vice versa if he’s more torso than legs. This can be done with even a single-button jacket.
Avoid vertical stripes in too fine a gauge. Another common misconception is that a tall man should avoid stripes altogether. While they can over exaggerate his existing proportions, this can be balanced out by wearing a stripe that is thick enough as to appear normal in comparison to his body. Bengal stripes, butcher stripes, and awning stripes are all larger gauges that will flatter lankier men.
Wear a belt. This isn’t a hard-and-fast rule when wearing a suit, but it certainly applies in more casual situations. The belt creates a visual point of separation, helping to temper the distance a viewer’s eye has to travel from the tall man’s head to his toes.
Wear boxes, checks, and plaid patterns. These add visual heft and can help balance out proportions.
Try a double-breasted jacket. These can help create more of the masculine V shape most men seek – especially when worn with a wider lapel.
Focus on proportions. A skinny tie will look very different on a man who is five feet tall than it will on a man of seven, even if their visual proportions are the same. Rather than paying too close attention to objective measurements, a focus on flattering proportions will create the necessary visual balance.
Add cuffs to pants. This is especially applicable to men who are more leg than torso. Adding the cuff on dress pants and rolling cuffs on jeans has a similar effect to wearing a belt, only down towards the ankles.
Focus on a moderate or slight break vs no break. Tall men are already running the risk of looking too big for their clothing. This effect is only made worse when their legs look like they’re six inches too long for their pants.

A great example of a man who embraces is proportions while still showing off his height is my friend Curtis. At well over six feet, he towers over almost anyone else in the room. However, his proportions are always spot on and without standing next to another person for reference, he doesn’t appear overly tall.

If you want to keep up with him and get inspiration from his style, check out his Instagram feed over at instagram.com/curtisanewkirk.

Another great resource for taller men is to pay attention to they style revival that’s currently going on in the NBA. I’ve personally done fittings for a few pro ball players and it’s amazing to see the difference than can be made with a proper focus on proportion control. A lot of these guys not only nail it in their press-conference suits, but in their casual and street wear as well.

Lug Soles

18 June, 2014

I got an interesting question from a reader last week.

Hey Tanner,

First off, just found your blog today via Primer and I’m really enjoying what I’ve seen so far. The mixture of culture, psychology, and fashion is uniquely interesting.

Now on to the reason I’m writing this to you: I’m curious how you feel about lug soles. My leather chukkahs have a lug sole and I really like it because it makes my boots a little more all-weather-proof, plus I think it throws a bit of a subtle yet rugged curveball, stylistically speaking. All cards on the table, I also don’t mind that it makes me a little taller (shh don’t tell anyone). There are also plenty of lug-soled more dressy shoes out there — mostly brogue wingtips — that I’d love to hear your opinion on as well

So what’s your take? Ruggedly refined? Gimmicky? Fleeting trend?

Cheers,

Nate

Before we get started on its applicability, its best to understand what exactly constitutes a lug sole. Apparently, back in 1935, there was a climbing accident that led to the deaths of six men. One of the primary causes cited at the time was inadequate footwear. Being friends with the six dead men, Vitale Bramani – the founder of Vibram – created a sole that would prevent future tragedies. Within two years he had a patent and launched the first-ever rubber lug – aptly named the Carramato or “tank tread.” It was designed to provide maximum traction in the widest variation of terrains possible.

What was a game changer in the 1930’s has now become a common, household item. Lug soles can be seen on the first pair of hiking boots a boy gets on his birthday, hand-made winter dress boots, and almost everything in between.

Because they were designed as a functional sole to be used by climbers and other outdoor adventurers, it’s safe to say their roots are solidly Rugged. This tough aesthetic is prominent regardless of whether the soles are added to a pair of patent-leather opera pumps or the latest iteration of Air Jordans. The lug sole will also evoke an image of moving about in nature and conquering the outdoors.

As a result, they should be worn accordingly. It’s obvious that these are inappropriate in formal and most business environments. However, they are a great way to add some intentional contrast to a pair of shoes that we consider to be more dressy today.

Lug soles are also easier to wear during the autumn and winter months as their practicality can be applied as an excuse for their use. Many dress boots will have lug soles as a way to bridge the gap between attire that is appropriate both on the commute and in the office.

Because of its long-standing history and its practical application, the lug sole is something that will never truly go out of style. It’s been worn by mountaineers, 80’s punk rockers, modern rakes, and other style-conscious men over the last century and will continue to be so.

To keep them classic, it’s best to wear them with shoes that are seasonal, more rugged, and use other materials that can withstand the elements. For a look that’s more aggressive, they should be worn on loafers, wingtips, and monkstraps.

Have a favorite pair of shoes and wish they had lug soles? For about $200 they can be added on to most shoes.

Review: LSTN Headphones

10 June, 2014

As much as music was part of my identity in high school and college, I’ve never been a huge audio guy. I didn’t own any vinyl, and the only lamentation I had about shifting all of my music from CD’s to my phone was that it didn’t play as loudly in my car. I’ve never installed an aftermarket stereo system in a vehicle and my home isn’t equipped with a sub woofer and surround sound. Basically, I’ve been pretty content with anything that comes out of the box.

It should come as no surprise that the same standard applies to my headphones. I’ve been using the standard white earbuds for as long as I’ve had an iPod or iPhone and they’ve done the job just fine. However, when LSTN reached out to me to see if I was interested in reviewing a pair of their headphones, my curiosity piqued and I wanted to see what the world of the audiophile was like. Would a different pair of earbuds really change the way I listened to music?

LSTN makes all of their headphones, both earbuds and over-the-ear options, with reclaimed wood. They source from materials like cherry, beachwood, and ebony. Initially I believed it was purely aesthetic; don’t get me wrong either, the wood looks awesome and makes each pair of earphones unique. However, it serves a practical purpose as well. Wood is used in classical instruments like guitars, drums, and pianos because of the effect it can have on sound. It can increase the warmth and quality of the audio coming through the player.

This opened up an entire new experience for me. I hadn’t realized how tinny and distant my music was until I started to use these headphones. Warmth is really the best word to describe the improved sound. The best comparison I can give is that of firelight vs the fluorescent bulbs lining a Wal Mart. Sure they both provide light, but the light of the fire does more than just that. It feels more natural, more social, and more inviting. The improved sound from these headphones creates a similar effect. I felt more like I was experiencing my music like I would at a live show, as opposed to just passively listening to it.

Out of the box, they come with a small, burlap carry bag and different-sized rubber cups. These were a huge benefit to me because apparently I have little-girl ear canals. The standard-size cup they provided was too big and felt extremely tight and uncomfortable, so the foresight in recognizing that people need size variations was a welcome inclusion.

I also am a fan of the no-knot nylon cable. I try to neatly wrap my chords but even the best wrapping can still get caught around other things in my bag or twist up on myself. By using a nylon cable as opposed to the standard earphone wiring LSTN made something that doesn’t tangle, nor does it crease and break. If I do see minor kinks when pulling it out of my briefcase or gym bag, I simply hold one end and run it through my hand all the way to the other, leaving it straight and ready to go. Of course they’re not the only company to do this, but I’m glad it’s part of their process.

The cable comes with an in-line microphone and one-button stop/play control. This is my largest complaint with these earphones because there is no option for volume variation directly on the cable. This is most frustrating in the gym when I have my phone in an armband and the controls on its side aren’t as easily accessible. Even after two months straight of using these, I still miss having the volume control right there on the cable.

The last major difference I noticed between these and my white earbuds, is the passive noise cancellation. I’m still surprised every time I put these on at how little I can hear around me. This is especially helpful at the gym because it helps keep me focused and I can feel like I’m in my own world. While I haven’t had the opportunity to try these on an airplane, I would imagine their cancellation properties are a huge improvement on the standard, white buds in that situation as well.

Aesthetically the Bowerys aren’t much, and it’s too bad. The great cherry wood on mine is hidden by my ears and all that’s visible is the black nylon chord. However, they have some over-the-ear phones that appear refined and well-crafted and would look much more appropriate when worn with a business suit than the brands you see sold at Best Buy or sponsoring snowboard competitions.

All in all, I’d say these are a worthwhile purchase. If they had volume control on the in-line mic they’d be perfect. Even still, at $50 for the Bowerys, they’re not much more expensive than replacing standard-issue headphones and the noise cancellation and sound improvement makes the extra money worth it.