Tanner is the founder and primary author of Masculine Style. He lives in Salt Lake City, Utah with his wife and two kids, and helps run Beckett & Robb - a men's clothing company built around custom suits and shirts.
Most men like to be consistent – both in how we define ourselves and how others perceive us. In fact, it’s such a strong desire that it often sends us into autopilot and is exploited by those who understand it.
In this video I talk about the effects that consistency has on most men’s relationship with their clothing, along with how you can use your appearance as a tool to help dampen the auto response of consistency and make sure you’re always in the driver’s seat.
One of the best ways to learn where you should and shouldn’t be consistent, is to understand the different Masculine Style Archetypes
Over the years I’ve gotten a lot of questions from readers about how to add elements of the Rugged and Rakish archetypes into their Refined, white-collar business wardrobes.
It’s a great question and shows just how intentionally you are dressing. As I’ve answered it for different readers, I’ve noticed three different ways to make a business uniform look a little more Rugged or Rakish
Most business attire operates under a moderate contrast. Dark trousers or suits, light shirts, and maybe a bit of a color pop in a tie. It’s not too muted, nor is it too vibrant and attention seeking.
A man who leans more towards the Rugged Archetype is better off toning down the contrast and working with colors that are analogous (close to each other on the color wheel).
Rather than a navy suit with a white shirt and green tie, he’s better off with a navy suit, darker blue shirt, and a tie that’s a deeper shade of blue or even a purple.
The opposite is true for Rakish men. They will want to up the contrast by choosing colors that are contrasting (opposite each other) or triadic (form a Y on the color wheel). Brighter shades, bolder patterns and more variations will all draw more attention and evoke more of the Rake.
From both the Rugged and Refined perspectives, increasing the amount of texture in a cloth helps make the style more personal.
A suit made from worsted wool is the industry standard for a reason. There is no visual or tactile variation and it appears professional and Refined. By changing the weave and the way in which the cloth is dyed – say with a birdseye or a nailhead – more visual texture can be introduced without affecting the way the cloth drapes or lies.
By taking the cloth to a further extreme – into realms of summer and winter fabrics and weights (think of linen, hopsack, flannel, and tweed) – even more texture is introduced and the garment strays further away from the Refined archetype.
The Rugged man will always want to lean a bit more textured. However, the Rakish man can use cloths that are finer or more textured. For him, it’s more about not being in the safe center than it is about the traditional association with a given texture.
Accessories
A man can stray too far from a work-appropriate wardrobe by diving headfirst into tweed suits or linen trousers. However, he can still inject some of his personality and his preferred Archetype by doing so with his accessories.
Selecting ties, pocket squares, and shoes that have more texture, play with the color variation, and have roots in other activities can all contribute a more Rugged or Rakish appearance.
Conclusion
There are myriad combinations that can come from understanding these three principles and the only way to truly learn how to apply them is through experimentation. Be willing to make mistakes and come up against the line – maybe even cross it a time or two.
Only from making these changes can a man truly understand the perfect, personal balance between the Three Archetypes in his own appearance.
Don’t know what I mean by Rugged, Refined, and Rakish? Well go check these out.
Want to know where you fall into the Three Masculine Style Archetypes?
Take this quick quiz and I’ll tell you. CLICK HERE
Want more?
Even when complying with a dress code, you’re still telling a story with your style.
Learn the how men throughout time and across all cultures have use their clothing to communicate specific, masculine virtues and tell stories that lead to more success, happiness, and fulfillment.
For years I wore what I assume most young men wear to sleep – a pair of old basketball shorts and maybe the occasional T-shirt.
But, as I got older, I decided I wanted to start wearing a little more. Maybe it had to do with sharing my bed with someone, maybe it was because I wanted to stop feeling like a teenager – whatever the reason, I decided to make a change.
And I haven’t turned back.
So today, I’m going to give you my three primary reasons to invest in a pair of real pajamas.
While it certainly isn’t the primary way in which a man should define himself, there is no reason for any man to not aspire to considering himself as well-dressed.
In order to do this, there needs to be real consistency in how he dresses. Otherwise it’s not inherently part of who he is. He’s just someone who occasionally dresses well.
His style isn’t an expression of who he actually is, just a costume he puts on and takes off when it suits him.
So, choosing to dress intentionally, in the environment in which it truly matters the least, is a form of behavior modification. It helps with a mindset shift in which the man who does so truly see himself as well-dressed.
It becomes easier and more comfortable to do so in situations in which it truly matters, because dressing well is ingrained as part of a man’s self-identity.
The Message it Conveys
When I was in high school, I distinctly remember spending the night at a friend’s house.
We were up way too late playing video games and were louder than we should have been. As a result, his dad came downstairs to tell us to shut up so he and his wife could get back to sleep.
As you can imagine in this kind of situation, the route my friend’s father chose was one of stern authority. We were outside the lines of acceptable behavior and he wanted us to know, and even feel a little intimidated to make sure we didn’t cross it again.
Problem was, he was an overweight guy and he came down in nothing but his underwear. Rather than scaring us into quieting down, we thought the whole thing was hilarious.
Both his credibility and authority were undermined by what he was wearing, and it watered down his message to the point where we didn’t take it nearly as seriously as we should have.
While it’s true that most people will never see us in our PJ’s, the times in which they do are often when a man is at his most exposed and vulnerable. Think of an emergency evacuation because of a fire alarm or a burglar breaking into a home.
In these situations, a man’s clothing should be the furthest thing from his mind. But that doesn’t mean it can’t help or hinder his ability to perform more necessary duties.
A pair of pajamas may not be as good as a set of armor, but it goes a long way in helping to curtail any perceived vulnerability or weakness in times when that perception can be crucial.
Comfort
I know I never really talk about comfort, and I still stand by that for the majority of a man’s wardrobe.
But sleepwear is entirely different. If what he’s wearing isn’t comfortable, it can affect the quality of his sleep and have a major impact on his effectiveness when he’s awake.
By purchasing a pair of quality pajamas – those made from materials designed to increase airflow and breathability, and which are cut in a way to maximize comfort – sleep quality can improve.
Yes a real pair of pajamas can lead to better sleep than a pair of sweatpants and an XL t-shirt.
How to Wear Them
Just because a pair of pajamas is worth wearing, doesn’t mean that they all need to look the same. In order to illustrate this point, I’m going to use three different iterations.
The Dude
This will be the easiest transition and be the most common.
No one will be winning any style awards for an ensemble like this, but the materials are cool and breathable, and the coverage and style are enough to prevent embarrassment.
The Dad
This is my personal go-to throughout the majority of the year. It’s the same as above, but there’s a night robe thrown in.
Most of the time I’m sleeping in the Dude setup, but both before I go to bed and after I wake up, I’ll have a night robe on.
It’s the ideal image for me to present to my family. There’s a bit more intentionality along with a lot more visual power than there would be otherwise. I’m not embarrassed to go out and grab the mail in this getup.
The Dignitary
When purchasing a pair of bottoms, it’s better to buy a set as a whole. While it’s not always necessary to wear the full pajama kit, there are benefits to doing so in the right environment.
I choose to wear the shirt in place of a T during the winter months as it allows for more warmth.
However, the majority of the time I’m in this ensemble is when I find myself spending the night with company.
We take the occasional trip with family or friends and this can often lead to shared mornings before everyone has had the chance to get ready.
Both the Dude and the Dad are a little to “at home” for these environments. There’s something about that top layer, the message it conveys, its history and tradition, that end up adding more respectability and authority to the man wearing it.
So whenever I know I’ll be in PJ’s with someone beyond my immediate family, this is my default.
Conclusion
Whichever you choose, just make sure you take the time to find the right pair. It’s worth investing the little bit of effort and money to find the right set.
To that end, I’ve worked out a deal for you guys. Other than the night robe, everything that’s been shown in this post comes from Tani, and I have a coupon for you.
Go check out there incredible stuff (I’ve really never owned better pajamas) and when you’re ready to pick them up for yourself, use the code “style25” It will give you 25% off your entire order and help get you feeling, looking, and sleeping better at night.
Versatility is a buzzword that gets thrown around a lot in the menswear world, but there’s good reason for it. Most men don’t have the desire to have a massive wardrobe and would rather get as much bang for their buck as they possibly can out of each item they purchase.
In this video, I show you how to use one item – in this case a Beckett & Robb field jacket – to create three separate outfits in each of the Masculine Style Archetypes.
One of the comments on that video was interesting and required more of a response than what I wanted to type out – so I made a corresponding video.
Here’s the comment:
And here’s my response:
Click here to watch the YouTube video: Clothing & Conformity
Click here to watch the YouTube video: Clothing & Conformity
Conformity
This is a word that used to terrify me, but it’s not nearly as scary as it could be. 50 years ago, the US had a dominant culture. It was one that expected and exacted conformity and those who refused to do so were treated as outcasts.
However, as the social changes of the 60’s gained momentum, the dominant American culture began to lose its steam, and by 2016 the idea of there being such a thing is a monolithic American normal is anathema to most people.
Instead, what we see is a stained-glass window of smaller subcultures (many of which started out as counters cultures). Rather than conforming to the American ideal, most of us dress, act, speak, and think like the other members of our own little groups.
In essence, we conform.
Clothing
This commenter has painted a picture of what his appearance is by only using three words:
Tattooed
Skate
Streetwear
What’s ironic is that using these three simple words, he’s given me pretty big hints into what his clothing looks like, what kind of music he does or doesn’t listen to, his political leanings, and myriad other points about who he is and what his relationship is with the world.
Are all of those assumptions I’m making true? Probably not, but I bet a good portion of them are.
Because, by using those three words, he’s told me who his tribe is, and he’s used his appearance as a way to demonstrate his loyalty within that tribe.
It all goes to prove my main point for me. This man has established his relationship with the world. He’s found who his people are, and who they aren’t. He’s espoused his philosophy about being himself and a continued rebellion against the dying body of the American culture.
And the way he dresses helps teach his children those same things.
He’s taken a deliberate and intentional approach to the world. It may be antagonistic to a specific set of norms and expectations, but it’s still just as intentional and thought out.
And he teaches his children to identify with that tribe, to develop that same relationship with the world, and assume the norms of his chosen sub culture – in part – by the way he dresses.
To that end, regardless of whether or not I like his aesthetic, he’s a well-dressed father who’s meeting his obligation to teach by a visual example, albeit unintentionally.
Conclusion
And that brings it all back to my original point. A dad who works on a ranch can wear an entirely different “uniform” than one who runs a skate shop. A father who spends is days in a suit and tie isn’t necessarily any better dressed than one is part of a tech startup.
If each of these men is a father, then they need to understand that what they wear each day teaches their kids specific lessons. And it’s a dad’s responsibility to understand what he’s demonstrating and to do so on purpose – with a specific goal in mind – rather than haphazardly or without any forethought.
Kids, especially little boys want to be like their dads (it’s awesome), and we can teach them much about the standards to which we are willing to conform and the ideals by which we want to live in the way we dress and the way we expect them to dress as well.
Want help in learning how to dress like your own subculture? Well go check these out.
Learn where you fall into the Three Masculine Style Archetypes?
Take this quick quiz and I’ll tell you. CLICK HERE
Want More?
While we may not have one societal expectation of conformity, there are still ways to dress well in any tribe or subculture. I’ve put together 30 items that every man, regardless of his affiliation, should have in his wardrobe.
This commenter has painted a picture of what his appearance is by only using three words:
And that brings it all back to my original point. A dad who works on a ranch can wear an entirely different “uniform” than one who runs a skate shop. A father who spends is days in a suit and tie isn’t necessarily any better dressed than one is part of a tech startup.