This is a guest post from Nicolas over at Kinowear – a great style blog for guys who live casually but still want to dress well and look like men.

We all know that there’s a time and a place for dressing down, being able to exude that laidback vibe while feeling comfortable, but that doesn’t mean that it’s a)intuitive or b) something to be overlooked when it comes to your style. When you take a look in your closet and see the well fitting suit jackets, the quality silk ties and those crisp, clean shirts it can be all too easy to think that dressing down simply means throwing on a pair of jeans with it all. In reality, that’s not going to do you any favors. The long and short of it is that you can’t reuse your formal attire if you want to achieve a laidback look: you need to invest in some casual clothing that will retain your style and keep you comfortable.

We know that you’re fashion enthusiasts like us, and we also know that you like to take pride in your appearance, enjoying classy outfits that exude sophistication. Over at the blog, we’re interested in young, dynamic fashion and we reckon that we’ve got some fantastic free advice that can help you go even further in your style. The Free Kinowear Crash Course to receive punchy, short advice that won’t take you ages to read. Click here to join the course.

We’re going to discuss three staples when it comes to dressing down: jeans, jackets and casual shirts. We’ll explain how to choose them and then combine them to create the desired dressed down look.

#1 – Jeans (and not just any old jeans)

The first staple of your dressing down closet should be that infamous pair of jeans. And we’re not talking the pre-faded, stonewashed monstrosities that are covered with blingy buttons and excessive seams. For a laidback look you want to go for a raw, slim fitted pair that are a dark blue (NOT black). In fact, the darker the better. Over at Kinowear we’re forever singing the praises of raw jeans for a multitude of reasons, but all you need to know is that they’re perfect for dressing down and they get even better over time: the pre-faded creatures will hang their metaphorical heads in shame.

Jeans are an investment, so don’t be afraid to splash out for a quality pair, but you need to know what you’re looking for. Fabric is super important: you want a tight mesh in terms of the denim that’s regular throughout – this regularity will make the jeans more attractive. Sizing is crucial, because I can guarantee most guys end up wearing the wrong size. When you try them on they should be tight, especially around the butt and thighs. They shouldn’t be hideously uncomfortable when you do up the button on the waistband, but you shouldn’t be able to shove your hand down there either. Denim stretches, so if they feel a little too tight to begin with don’t panic. When it comes to the length, you’re going to want a concertina effect at the ankles rather than them cutting you off in the wrong place: the fabric should fold a little.

#2 – Jackets (not to be thrown on in a hurry)

Staple number two is a jacket. And not the beautifully tailored, pristine thing that you wear with your suits – that just won’t work if you want to dress down. The fabric here is essential for giving the impression that you’re going laidback. Generally, rougher fabrics are what you’re after for dressing down, so head for the classic tweed, thick wool and flannel jackets rather than the thin fabric that has that fluid quality about it when it falls and that very formal sheen.

We’d normally say how the fit of a jacket is super important, but it’s not quite the same criteria when you’re dressing down. Obviously you shouldn’t be wearing the wrong size, but you want less structure from the jacket and it should be shorter than the classic suit jacket which will certainly help you to achieve that relaxed look.

However, don’t see a short suit jacket and go and grab it without thinking about those little details that are going to make more of a difference than you think: patch pockets are far more casual than pocket flaps and will impact enormously on your overall look. The color of a jacket is slightly more complicated than for a pair of jeans because there’s just more choice, but fear not: you’re after earthy tones like shades of brown, beige and tan, and a nice little detail that you can also look for is speckling of another color when you look at the fabric closely. This isn’t to say you should be going for outlandish patterns, but those subtle speckles can really enhance your look.

It might be a small detail, but these patch pockets are instantly adding a laidback feel to this jacket.

#3 – Shirts: can they ever be casual?

Shirts are a tricky one. When you’re used to wearing a formal shirt and tie it can be difficult to adjust to more casual styles, but you can make the transition more easily by going for an Oxford shirt. These shirts are easy to wear and use a laidback material that can still be worn with a blazer if you feel a bit too laidback, and you can still look for those quality touches you’d be after with a dress shirt: the seams, buttons and reinforcements, for example. You’ve got a choice of colors so you don’t have to worry about stumbling over extravagant patterns and garish designs, and they’re the best way of delving into the world of dressing down if you want to give it a go.

Chambray shirts are another great way of relaxing your look. You can go as far as wearing them open with a white T-shirt underneath, or just wear them on their own: a blue colored chambray shirt has workwear connotations so you shouldn’t feel too intimidated by giving it a go.

For the more adventurous amongst you, or for those who feel more advanced in terms of creating style, checked shirts are definitely an option. They ooze masculinity with a lumberjack-esque edge, and the relaxed material alone will instantly dress your look down. There’s a wide range of sizes in terms of the squares themselves, and it’s really a matter of taste: smaller squares have a certain level of refinement that you might prefer and feel more comfortable with.

There are some very interesting general points to note when it comes to shirts. Firstly, the collar. It is not going to go well if you go for an enormous collar on a casual shirt where you have no intentions of wearing a tie. Instead, you’re after smaller collars that aren’t imposing and will look perfect without a tie: an instant dressed down feel. Secondly, you want to consider the length. For a more casual look you should opt for shirts that you don’t tuck into your pants, so you definitely shouldn’t be going for shirts that will hang over your butt! Think about the length of the shirt in relation to a jacket, for example, and that should be a good indicator.

Check out the shirt length here – perfect for an untucked, casual look

Outfit Examples – this is how it’s done…

Just to show you some of these ideas in practice, here are two outfits that we’ll quickly explain:

This guy isn’t just literally ‘laid back’…

This combination is exactly what a relaxed look is all about. The softer structure of the jacket makes it a perfect combination with those dark jeans and immediately oozes relaxation with those pushed up sleeves. The shirt, worn open, needs no tie and complements both the jeans and the light-colored jacket.

Dressing down isn’t synonymous with sweatpants and sneakers…

The casual look here is very much completed by the dark, crumpled jeans. Rolled hems are also a nice touch: the look is carefully considered and not just thrown together. Pairing a dark sweater with a white T-shirt brings out some contrast in color and makes the outfit more appealing.

This look is very similar: those jeans scream ‘look how laidback I am!’

And there we have it! So when you’re scouring your closet for dressing down, remember to avoid clobbering your quality pieces with a pair of pre-faded jeans. Instead go and invest in some staples that can be mixed and matched and will serve you well.

Who is Nicolas?

I’m the author of this post and editor at Kinowear.com.

At Kinowear we help men choose pieces of clothing and put together simple yet stunning outfits.

Join me on the blog to learn how to dress sharply.

 

Need a little help with your shopping after Thanksgiving? Here are a few ideas for the men in your life this year. Click on the pictures to buy online.

$25 –

The Art of Shaving Starter Kit: The difference between a classic shave and the modern fiasco most men put themselves through now  is like comparing a handmade, bespoke suit to something from Men’s Warehouse. There has been a serious resurgence in classic shaving and a starter kit like this is a great way to whet a man’s appetite. $25

Hav-A-Hank Bandana Pocket Squares: Bandanas are a great way to add a little intentionality to a casual look. When a clean, white square looks too formal, one of these guys will help a man looked well dressed, while still remaining casual. Unlike a regular bandana, these are sized to fit perfectly into the breast pocket of a jacket. $17

Masculine Style Basic Consultation: Each man is made of a unique blend of his size, coloring, contrast type, and proportions. Because not all men are built equally, we all need to learn how to show off our strengths while minimizes our weaknesses. My Basic Consultation does just that. $25

$25 – $50

Pendleton Journey West Spa Towel: Finding a masculine beach towel can be an exercise in extreme frustration. Everything either looks like it was designed for kids, women, or the bargain bin at Wal Mart. These navajo prints get the job done right – looking both manly and timeless. $48

Frank & Oak Canvas Suede Travel Pouch: Whether it’s a weekend up the road or halfway across the world, traveling is infinitely easier when a man is able to keep all of his toiletries in one place. This is the kind of purchase that only needs to happen once or twice in a lifetime, so he might as well have something that will stand up to the abuse of travel and look good while doing it. $45

Buck 501 Squire: A pocket knife is one of those tools that only presents its unlimited usefulness once a man is in the habit of carrying it. I use mine just about every day. Because they can be used in a variety of situations, it pays to invest in one that’s made with both quality and style in mind. $35

$50 – $100

Stock & Barrel Co No.27 iPad Air Sleeve: Keep the minimal aesthetic provided by the iPad air while giving it a more rugged feel. Cases like this allow for better protection and more style when your tablet sees more use than as simply a giant TV remote at home. $68

Frank & Oak Chestnut Leather Gloves: Real leather is the only way to go for winter durability, warmth, and style. The fleece lining means his hands will stay warm and the leather will ensure he can keep a hold of either his bag or the steering wheel on his commute home. $75

Herschel Supply Co Novel Weekender: Road trips and overnighters call for a bag that can protect a man’s goods, adapt it’s shape to the less-than-ideal circumstances such impromptu trips often lead to, and still manage to look great. The Novel has been my go-to bag for more than year now and it has yet to fail to do the job. $80

$100 – $250

Chester Mox #88 Bi-Fold: It’s no secret that I’m a fan of Chester Mox. Brandon runs a tight ship and makes the best wallets I’ve ever owned. He recently sent me his new #88 model and it’s replaced what I was using last year. Sometimes a man needs a bit more room than what a card case can provide. This regular bi-fold is still sleek and slim but allows for a few more cards. It can even be monogrammed with his name – making it even better as a gift. $140

Daniel Wellington Watch: A man’s timepiece should be able to transition smoothly from work to play. It should be large enough to have a presence without being so big as too draw unnecessary attention. It should also be simple enough to appear appropriate when paired with almost anything else in his wardrobe. All of Daniel Wellington’s watches meet these criteria. From now until Christmas Eve, use the code “masculine-style” for 15% off. $230

Koben Silk Lined Raw Denim Jeans: I know. I know. That was my reaction too. Then I got a pair and was blown away by how comfortable they are. If he chooses not to roll the cuffs, no one will ever even know he’s sporting a pair of pants that would make an old-school porn star jealous. Expect a full review of these in the next couple of months. Suffice it to say for now that, these are the only jeans I wear anymore.

You’ve heard the term and, like most people, you’ve probably made an association with Nirvana and the grunge scene of the 90’s or the current hipster urban lumberjack and then moved on.

There’s more to this fabric than just a red-on-black buffalo check. It spans across nearly all aspects of a man’s wardrobe and can be seen in the most rugged of casual clothing and some of the most refined business suits.

Flannel’s origins are a bit cloudy. What we do know is that it started out in 17th century Scotland in the Highlands. It was made from either carded wool or worsted yarn. Without going into too much detail about what these two processes are, let’s just say that the woolen yarn is worked repeatedly with a metal brush – giving the flannel its uniquely soft feel and ability to capture heat.

While its beginnings were humble, it quickly spread throughout Europe during the 17th century. The Industrial Revolution increased its popularity in Europe and the United States were quick to follow.

However, flannel didn’t become a mainstay until Hamilton Carhartt stepped in the 19th century. Concerned about the conditions in which his workers found themselves why building the rapidly expanding US railroad system, Carhartt questioned many of his men wanting to know what they believed were the most prominent problems and potential solutions. Shortly after his polling he created a flannel overall that provided a durability required for the working man, while still maintaining his warmth and providing a cloth that was comfortable to wear.

We may not be wearing overalls today, but there are still plenty of applications in which flannel is appropriate.

Casual Wear

Now that the winter months are upon us here in the Northern Hemisphere, it’s time to really consider the warmth of clothing. Having even just one layer with a heat-retaining fabric like flannel can be a game changer in a man’s day.

Button-up shirts are the easiest way to wear flannel casually. They can be in solid colors or bold patterns. The key to wearing them casually is making sure the body of the shirt is short enough that it doesn’t look like a night shirt when it’s left untucked, wearing the top two buttons undone, and not being overly concerned with how well-pressed the shirt is before each wear.

Button ups also look more casual with traditional workwear detailing – things like flapped chest pockets, barrel cuffs, and even epaulettes on the shoulders.

The next layer up would be a flannel work jacket. Companies like Pendleton, Filson, and others all offer heavy flannel jackets that are styled after traditional work or military coats.

Business Casual

We’ve talked about sport coats and blazers in the past. What most men are unaware of is how comfortable one can be in flannel. By finding an option that is unstructured and unlined – essentially a man is wearing a flannel shirt that is shaped like a blazer. This means it will feel as comfortable and motion friendly as a sweatshirt when it’s on.

The casual look can be increased with small details like horn, leather, or wooden buttons, patch pockets, and elbow patches. To take it a step further, embracing bold patterns and loud colors gives the jacket even more personality.

Business Wear

The same level of comfort described above in a business casual sport coat can be accomplished with a business suit as well. The key to making the distinction is in the way the suit is designed. Peak lapels, mother of pearl buttons, a ticket pocket, and deep cuffs on the trouser are all statement-making customizations that communicate the wearer is a man to be taken seriously.

This can feel can be enhanced further by opting for a bold pinstripe or chalk stripe. Just be sure to keep the colors in shades of navy, grey, and charcoal to avoid looking like a cartoon character.

Few men make a conscious effort to seek out flannel, but once a man has learned how versatile the cloth can be, how comfortably it wears, and how warm it is during the coldest months, he quickly becomes a life-long convert.

My friend and former client Max Nachamkin runs a great site called Inner Gladiator. His focus is one that is very consistent with my message here – helping guys deliberately and purposefully become better men.

As part of the site and its reach, Max does a periodic podcast. He was kind enough to invite me on as a guest for his latest episode. In it we talk about the site, why men should focus on dressing better, Max’s experience with the results of his style improvement, and other areas of a man’s wardrobe.

I highly recommend checking out his site and learning more about his approach to improving masculinity.

We’ve spent a lot of time talking about things like color, pattern, and fit. Once a man has these three factors dialed in, it’s time to start focusing on another area that is easy for the average Joe to see, but difficult for him to recognize or comment on – texture.

Let’s go back to our spectrum of formality with a man’s clothing.

Texture is a huge, differentiating factor when trying to either dress up or down. The rougher the texture, the more casual the appearance – the smoother, the more formal.

An easy and immediate way to see the difference between these two is to use a little word association. If I say “denim” you automatically get a picture in your head. Associated words may be work, heavy, warm, rough, or durable. Now, if I say “silk,” an entirely different image emerges. Words like luxury, soft, rich, and formal will come to mind.

Texture can be used as a tool to fine tune a man’s wardrobe to the same extent that fit, color, and pattern can.

Take a look at this photo from the most recent iteration of the Great Gatsby:

You can see the sheen and almost feel how smooth and soft the cloth is. A texture that smooth has no place in the casual world or even in the realm of business. It is reserved for the refinement of black-tie affairs, after-dark parties, and other formal events.

Now take a look at this picture of a group of men walking in traditional hunting gear:

They’re still wearing suits, but the thick and heavy texture of a British tweed is too casual for the world of business and certainly too rough to appear in the formal realm.

In both of the above-pictured situations the men are wearing jackets and trousers – not just “some suit” or a T-shirt and jeans. Obviously there are large differences between the cut of the suits, the colors, and the patterns. However, if all were to be equalized except the texture, even the untrained eye could look at the two photos and know the type of event in which the pictured men find themselves.

The beauty of texture is that it is found in everything a man wears. This means the budding sartorialist can mix and match textures to either dress up or dress down an outfit. To the same degree that High/Low can be accomplished when pairing specific items that are considered formal or casual in the modern world, High/Low can be tweaked and fine tuned by mixing and matching different textures.

In the photo above you can see this businessman is draped in the heavy and highly textured wool that is commonplace on most topcoats. As a way to provide some balance to this look, he opted for a silk scarf. The contrast it provides is one that speaks to both an understanding and intentionality in dressing appropriately for his world.

The opposite is also true. Nothing says “amateur” more than a man who tries to wear a suit jacket made of smooth wool and a silk tie with a pair of jeans. The contrast is too strong and it gives away his lack of understanding. The same man would look like a pro if he were to swap out the jacket for something like a Birdseye weave or a tweed and trade in the silk tie for one of wool or even a knit silk.

So once you feel like you have your fit down, your colors figured out, and your pattern matching dialed in, try playing with texture to make more of a statement. The average person on the street won’t know enough to say why you look better, but they’ll be able to tell that you do.