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Author: Tanner

Tanner is the founder and primary author of Masculine Style. He lives in Salt Lake City, Utah with his wife and two kids, and helps run Beckett & Robb - a men's clothing company built around custom suits and shirts.

The Top 5 #Menswear Trends No Self-Respecting Man Should Follow

11
27 February, 2014

Of the many trends and fashion statements happening currently, these are the worst. Not all are equally offensive, nor are they equally popular. However, they’ve popped up often enough online, in shows, and on the street that they’re starting to become regular and should be avoided.

Pants Tucked Into Boots

Mens-Jeans-Tucked-Into-Boots

This is probably the most tempting for a lot of men because it’s also the most common. However, rather than appearing more rugged and badass, it makes them look dainty and girlish. At its least offensive it looks like this:

men-street-fashion-in-military

And at its most, it looks like this:

mens riding boots in jeans

Man Tights

givenchy mens tights

Much less common but still seen often enough in high-fashion areas to be worth calling out. This shouldn’t even need to be explained.

menswear tights

Overly Large Lapel Pins

giant wedding boutonniere

I’m a fan of a little ornamentation on the lapel. But it needs to be kept in check. This is most commonly seen on guys in wedding parties, but is starting to transition more and more into everyday clothing.

gaudy mens lapel

Drop-Crotch Pants

dolce and gabana.mensfashionworld

Mostly worn by musicians and other celebrities, ultimately they end up looking like this:

Dick van Dyke with penguins

Extremely Deep V-Necks

deep-low-v-neck-t-shirts-for-men

I love a good V but this is taking things too far. It doesn’t matter if you’re well-built like the guy above or scrawny:

men's deep v neck

Or if you have a hairy chest instead of a clean one:

deepv

There is nothing masculine about deep cleavage.

These an other trends will wax and wane in popularity. The trick is paying attention to overall impression given and avoiding those that are either too far removed from tradition or evoke an image that’s too feminine.

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Clothing

The Discipline of Dressing Better

7
25 February, 2014

Last night my wife and I were out to dinner when we got to talking about a few people we know and their appearances. Reading that sentence I realize it sounds gossipy but we were focusing more on why they look the way they do, rather than just poking fun at them.

There are a few women we know who have spent time with my wife shopping, getting their hair done, learning how to do makeup, etc. They ultimately fall back to no makeup, hair in a ponytail, and jeans and a T-shirt. The same goes for some men in our lives. They’re guys I’ve done full, albeit unofficial, consultations with who, after a month or two, still end up coming back to dad jeans and Seinfeld sneakers.

Dad Jeans and Seinfeld Sneakers

It’s funny because they’ve invested their time, energy, and money into buying pieces for a new wardrobe and yet end up defaulting back to what they know and are familiar with.

We are all creatures of comfort and habit. Whether we’re miserable, happy, enslaved, productive, healthy, or dying, it’s easier for us to remain in our current situation than it is to improve our lot in life.

The easiest and most glaring example of this is in regards to health. Every year people resolve to get in better shape, lose weight, eat less junk, and feel better about themselves.  I have one relative who is suffering from a myriad of “diseases” simply because she treats her body like a garbage disposal and won’t exert any discipline over her diet.

We’re all guilty of it. I was trying to lose belly fat for five years before I really took it seriously enough to make any real progress. Instead it was easy enough to justify where I was because I wasn’t really fat, I had more important things to do with my time than count calories, and my wife still thought I was attractive so it didn’t matter anyway -pretty easy and common rationalizations.

Part of it is that we trick ourselves into believing that half-hearted efforts are a legitimate attempt at improving ourselves. We get the high of feeling and projecting our discipline without really needing to have any self control. We can tell people we’re watching our diet, but if the belly’s still there after three years, are we?

So bringing this back to style, we can get caught up in aesthetic inertia as much as anything else. A man may buy a great pair of chukkas, but still throw on his sneakers. He does it because he’s used to his sneakers and they’re already broken in. Or because the chukkas were more expensive and he doesn’t want them to just be common, every-day shoes. Or because he subconsciously realizes that people will perceive him differently and he doesn’t want the increased responsibility that comes with increased respect. Whatever the reason may be, dressing well is not an easy thing – even after paying the money for the clothing to do so.

It’s not nearly as difficult as exercising, eating better, approaching a girl at a bar, or learning to better control our emotions, but it does still take some mental discipline and fortitude. In our heads it should be just as easy to throw on that pair of chukkas as it is to lace up the old New Balances, but it’s not. We have too much value invested in our appearance to be able to make a change without the effort of discipline.

I’ll say that again for the back row – All men invest enough value in their appearance that making any change will require mental discipline. Even those who claim their style doesn’t matter are really just esteeming themselves as someone who doesn’t care about style. By getting them to admit that they do, their whole paradigm has shifted.

I’ll give you an example from my own life. I’ve worn a shirt and tie, mostly with a suit, almost every day for the last ten years. It’s part of my uniform and I’m just as comfortable in that as I am in my casual clothing. However, one thing I’ve never really spent much time wearing is workout clothing. Even when I was active as a teenager, I wasn’t involved in traditional sports. So gym shorts, sweat-slicking shirts, and gym shoes were a foreign concept for me up until this past year. In fact, when I first started going to the gym, I was wearing Chuck Taylors, old running shorts, and my normal T-shirts.

Once I got proper exercise clothing, I loved wearing it to the gym. I felt a difference in the way I was able lift and work out. It didn’t make me stronger or better, but it did make me more comfortable. That being said, I was self conscious if I had to go anywhere else in my workout clothes. Swinging by the grocery store or stopping off at the bank was uncomfortable for me because I still identify as someone who dresses up. When I stand in line waiting to check out in my running hoodie and cross trainers, I look like half of the other men in the store – and that’s a foreign feeling. My own lack of discipline wanted me to make the ridiculous decision of going home and changing before being seen anywhere besides the gym in my workout gear.

Silly right? Well thankfully it requires less self control than other aspects of self improvement. One of the easiest steps a man can make is to throw out or give away his old clothing. There’s no temptation to put on that baggy, ironic band shirt when it’s sitting in a bin at GoodWill. Just like eating healthier is easier when there’s not junk food in the house, dressing better is easier when the slob uniform has been thrown away.

Much like developing any other good habits, dressing better requires less mental effort the more often it’s done. It’s further proof that learning to do so is an easy investment in improving a man’s life. Once he’s taken the necessary weeks to acclimate to dressing intentionally, it becomes second nature – meaning his will power and discipline can be used on other, more trying improvements.

Modern Style:slim bedford sweats
Clothing

In Defense of the New Suit Supply Campaign

17
18 February, 2014

If you spend any amount of time in the online world of menswear, you have most likely seen the brouhaha surrounding the newest ad campaign from Suit Supply.

For those of you who aren’t aware, it features well-dressed men in Suit Supply’s newest summer offerings surrounded by half-naked women. The uncensored version is even NSFW (Boobs. Lots of boobs).

Suit Supply Spring Summer 2014

The reactions have ranged from the simple face palm to some serious outrage.

What’s funny is that none of the arguments I’ve heard have a leg to stand on.

And don’t take me wrong, I think it’s a bad campaign. Not bad in the ineffective sense; bad as immoral. But I come at it from the religious standpoint of sex being something that is private and should be treated as such – that displaying it so openly makes light of and cheapens something that should be kept sacred.

I know that most of the world doesn’t think like that though. Rather, we’ve been bombarded with the commodification of sex for years. Instead, it’s bad because of sexism, the male gaze, objectification of women, the perpetuation of male stereotypes or any other secular-humanist, politically-correct, self-contradicting dogma that teaches that sex is no big deal – except when it is.

As many things as this ad is, it’s not sexist. At least, not in the women-are-less-than-men kind of sexism. Instead, it’s a smart play off of the different types of sexual attraction that exist between men and women.*

As much as our Women’s Studies professors tried to convince us otherwise, no man has ever been turned on by a woman’s degree, her career, or her credentials. While those things may build comfort or create a desire for a deeper relationship, the primary thing that turns a man on is how a woman looks. Is she young? In shape? Does she have large hips and breasts with a small waist? How about long hair, clear skin, and a good smile? If so, a man’s sex drive kicks in – plain and simple.

While women are attracted to men who have a good physique, it’s not nearly as much of a factor as a woman’s build is for a man. Instead, her primary attractors are a man’s ability to control the environment around him. His physical, social, financial, emotional, and mental strength are the things that turn a woman on. It’s the reason why young, attractive women end up with bad boys and older millionaires. These men have proven their ability to shape the world to their image.

A good-looking man, who’s in decent shape, and well dressed gives off the impression of success and control. It’s why little meme pictures like this exist:

a tailored suit is to women what lingerie is to men

From a real equality standpoint – this ad campaign objectifies the men just as much as it does the women. It reduces them to their status – irrespective of their morals, character, and integrity – just as much as it reduces women to their bodies.

So if these gender equalizers, who are getting their panties all twisted, really had any consistency to their ideology, they’d be just as upset about the objectification of the men as they are of the women.

The idea of being disgusted by sex advertising in a sex-positive culture is nothing but hypocritical. This level of cognitive dissonance is what leads to things like newspeak and thought crime. The models were consenting adults, as were the photographers, the producers, the publishers, and everyone else involved. In order to see the uncensored pictures, a viewer has to consent to them. With consent being the ultimate arbiter of modern integrity, there is nothing morally wrong or offensive about this campaign.

But our society wants to have its cake and eat it too. We want all people to be equal, consenting adults when it suits the narrative and we want everyone (except for straight, white, Christian, middle/upper class males) to be victims when that suits the narrative as well. So what happens?

All of the different social groups jump to play their acceptable roles. Women, minorities, and the non straight or cis-gendered all do everything they can to claim their feelings were hurt the most by the insensitivity of the campaign. At the same time, straight men everywhere clamor as loudly as possible that they too find it to be a violation of their good taste and that advertising like this is bad because (insert feminist/modernist/humanist argument here).

The greatest irony in all of this is that most of the guys who are ardently denouncing this campaign as sexist, backwards, and misogynistic are the same men who are fapping to these photos and more the same night. They’re the same men who take on the persona of the “nice guy” with the hopes of it endearing them to more women, thereby making it possible for them to see these women naked.

To these guys and the rest of the West, an unapologetic and overt sexual appetite is not offensive because sex should be private and sacred, but because it’s a uniquely masculine way of approaching the topic – making it evil.

And that’s the real crux of the disgust with this campaign. It’s not outrage at the fact that women are naked. It’s outrage that there are people who don’t play the sexually passive-aggressive martyr that these nice guys and their feminist enablers believe all men should be. It’s in your face, blatant, and aggressive.

There’s no nuance to it, and nuance is the only tool most SWPL’s have in their belt. There’s a time and a place for subtly, but it’s the only means of communication for a coward. There’s no risk in subtly, there’s no courage in nuance. When everything can be explained away as inference or implication, it takes all accountability and all masculinity out of communication.

This campaign is as blunt as a Michael Bay movie – and it’s working. It has worked for Suit Supply for three different campaigns now and they continue to grow. Very few menswear stores are opening as many locations as rapidly and with as much hype as Suit Supply. They’re cashing in on all of this outrage and leaving the complainers red in the face.

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*Yes I’m speaking in generalities. I’m sure you, someone you know, or someone you’ve heard of is an exception to the rule. Big deal, most generalities tend to exist for a reason and they’re worth looking at as a trend as opposed to a destiny.

Clothing, Musings

Home Staples: The Sofa

4
13 February, 2014

This is an idea I’ve been kicking around for a little while. However, don’t let the name fool you, this isn’t intended to be as intense and drawn out as my Staples series. Rather, it will be a breakdown of some of the essential items in a man’s home that deserve focus.

The purpose of designing your living quarters should be three-fold. First, it should be functional. It doesn’t matter how great something looks, smells, or seems if it doesn’t accomplish its primary goal. Second, it should be a place that makes the man living there comfortable. For some men, this means an extreme minimalism about which they don’t need to concern themselves. For others, it means a well-curated home that shows off mementos and reminders of experiences, travels, events, and hobbies. Third, it should be a place in which other people want to be. Whether you’re like me and have a wife and children who also live with you, or you’re a free-roaming bachelor who lives on his own, we all have other people in our living space. We want it to be something that makes them comfortable and want to be around us more. Just like with clothing, the way our homes look can say a lot about us.

One of the central points in a man’s home is the living room, and one of the central points of the living room is the sofa. Whether he lives in a studio apartment or a luxury villa in Italy, any and every man should have a sofa. It’s a place to sit upright and socialize, get work done (I’m on mine as I type this right now), relax after a long day of work, or even crash for a quick nap.

And yes, a sofa is better than a row of recliners or other alternatives. Odd chairs look great in a living room, but the common space offered by a sofa makes people more conversational and can also make it easier to participate in other shared activities.

So what does a masculine sofa look like? It’s obvious that things like excess frilling, feminine patterns, and beer-stained cushions are all to be avoided. Here’s an idea of what to shoot for.

Modern

Modern Masculine Sofa

 

Mid Century

Mid Century Sofa

 

Vintage

masculine chesterfield

Rustic

Rustic Masculine Sofa

 

Preppy

Preppy Nautical Striped Sofa

Industrial

Industrial Stephen Kenn Sofa

 You’ll notice that there are good representations of all three archetypes of style. The mid century and modern are more Rakish, the industrial and rustic are more Rugged, and the preppy and vintage are more Refined.

After looking through a few hundred pictures, I started notice some trends in the sofas that looked inherently masculine:

  • Most had arms that were as high as the back. This gives them an overall lower stance, making them appear broader and more aggressive.
  • Darker or bolder colors were used. This may have been in the sofa itself or with the throw blankets and/or pillows. A little unapologetic contrast is a good way to show a man lives in the home.
  • Most were made from materials that are traditionally associated with masculinity. Leather, fur, brass, canvas, dark wood, and even denim can work well on a sofa.
  • While many had a few accent items thrown on, none went overboard. A few pillows and a blanket shows intentionality. Going all Jan Levinson makes anyone look crazy.

Finding the right sofa can be an exercise in patience. Buying something brand new can be prohibitively expensive. Even popular vintage pieces like mid-century leathers and chesterfields can cost an arm and a leg. Using consignment shops, craigslist, antique stores, and keeping an eye on sales at regular furniture shops will make it easier to find the right piece at the right price.

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The Perfect Spring Jacket

7
11 February, 2014

It may not feel like it just yet, but spring is right around the corner. The changing weather will provide an opportunity to shed that winter coat that’s been worn like a second skin and allow most men to start dressing in layers. One of the best ways to layer up casually is with the Baracuta jacket.

Daniel Craig Baracuta Jacket

Also known as a Harrington, this jacket was invented in 1937 by two English brothers and has been a staple in the wardrobe of well-dressed rebels nearly every decade since.

The brothers, who worked in a factory making traditional trench coats, wanted a waterproof jacket that was appropriate for the working man. So they shortened the body, added a buttoning throat closure, elastic at the waistband and wrists, and buttoned flaps on the pockets. The result was a trim-cut, stylish jacket that didn’t have to compromise its form or function.

Elvis Presley Baracuta Jacket

During the 50′s it was sold as a sports coat to the Ivy League crowd, and Elvis Presley wore one in the film “King Creole,” giving it a huge surge in popularity.

Since then, it’s been a staple in the wardrobes of Mods, Punks, and other well-dressed rebels. Including Steve McQueen, who was consistently seen wearing one.

Steve McQueen Baracuta Jacket

The beauty of the jacket is in its functionality, practicality, and versatility.  The best versions are those that are made with a waxed cotton or other water-resistant material. It can be thrown over something as simple as a T-shirt or as complicated as a button-up – tie – sweater combo, making it one of the few items that works on the three levels of Rugged, Refined, and Rakish. It’s slim shape and minimalist design gives the masculine V-shape that we work for but is all too often hidden by ill-fitting clothing.

Baracuta Jacket

While there are many companies who make a version of the Harrington, Baracuta is still in existence and sells their original G9. Look to spend between $50 – $200 and wear the hell out of it.

Modern Style:slim bedford sweats
Clothing

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