One of the more difficult aspects of dressing well is learning to balance timeless style with current trends. You have to incorporate both in order for your clothing to be as effective as you want it to be. For the most part, other men will respond favorably to your timelessness while women will take note of your currency.

The beauty of men’s clothing is that – even when it’s on trend – it still draws from classic elements and stylish cues of decades past. For example, let’s look at the one article of clothing that will be the biggest, most-current trend this summer – the double-breasted jacket.

The first thing you need to know about the modern DB is how different it is from what was popular in the 80’s and 90’s. Unlike single-breasted jackets, you can’t just pick up a DB from the thrift store and have it tailored to have a current look and fit; there are just too many differences.

Compare the two images above.

The most obvious is that the jacket length overall is much shorter. This is even more true if you are purchasing the jacket by itself as a sport coat and want to ensure it doesn’t look like you left the second half of your suit at home. On top of that, an obvious improvement is the trimness of the fit. Everything including the torso proportions, arm holes, and sleeve circumferences are all slimmer throughout the the jacket to better show off the natural shape of the man wearing it.

From there we can move onto the finer details. The button stance on the lower jacket is much higher and of a different configuration. While there are the same amount of buttons, the lower four function in the updated version (he still leaves the last one undone) whereas only the bottom two work in the upper jacket. Raising the stance makes the legs appear longer and helps the chest appear broader.

The lapels are still wide and peaked but notice how much higher the gorge (where the collar meets the lapel and forms the peak) is on the chest in the second picture. This helps elongate the chest (to balance out the higher button stance) and visually broaden the shoulders.

By default a double-breasted suit is both more traditional and more formal. As a way to balance that its inherent formality and make it more wearable as a sport coat, there are a number of different details to dress it down.

The first is to start with a more casual, light-weight material. Things like tropical-weight wools, linen, cotton and any mixes of those three are all going to breathe much better and wear more casually. They are also more appropriate materials for spring and summer.

Next, a properly casual DB jacket has no structure or lining whatsoever. This means no shoulder padding, no canvassed construction, and no interior linings at all. Essentially you want this to be as formless and minimal as a shirt. Not only does it make it appear more casual, this lack of structure also allows the garment to breath, making it even easier to wear in the warm months approaching.

Add patch pockets on the breast and hip. These were used in sporting coats to allow more space, easier access, and more garment durability when men carried things like shotgun shells in their pockets. You may not put anything in them now, but their shape and appearance are more casual and sporting than formal.

Embrace louder colors and bolder patterns. There is nothing subtle about a DB jacket – especially now when they are just starting to make a comeback. While they may be popular and ubiquitous five years from now, wearing one today makes a statement. So embrace that statement by choosing an attention-getting color or pattern. The social risk will pay off.

Smaller details like lightly-colored buttons (more casual), elbow patches (more sporting), and contrast threads in buttonholes (more garish) all help modernize a DB and keep it looking current.

By buying or building a jacket with all the details above you’ll be able to throw it on with a pair of jeans, dress trousers, or your favorite chinos. It becomes the ultimate High/Low jacket with enough go-to-hell attitude to push you out of your comfort zone and make you stand out. So do your homework, shop around, and get on the ball before every other man in your social circle, in the club, or at the park is wearing one of these.

PS. For updates and insights follow me on Twitter.

Read the intro to the series here and the Rugged post here.

The Refined Man is one who is financially and influentially masculine. He bends the world of men to his will by means of his connections, his money, and his political/social power. He is capable of mixing both direct and subtle elements to accomplish his ends and has so much clout that he very rarely has to adapt to situations going out of his control (because they never do). He is the titan of industry, the politician, the hedge fund manager, and the 1%.

Regardless of a man’s station in life, he is able to develop himself into a Rugged man. This archetype is determined by a man’s relation to nature. The Refined man, on the other hand, is defined by his relation to other men. Refinement is relative. It takes all the core elements of a Rugged man, distills them down to their essence, and applies them to society itself. Refined men are those who have influenced other men so completely that they are able to avoid the hardships of nature and only pursue rugged activities out of desire, not necessity.

For Refined men money is no object. The real pursuit of more is based on their competitive drive with each other. These are the men who can afford to act like chivalrous gentlemen and still have women fall for them, for their status amongst men is so high that they are required to take themselves off of their self-made pedestals to avoid creating discomfort while in the company of others.

To this point, the Refined man is one who is aware of rules, traditions, and etiquette. He knows – while they appear foolish and even foppish to the layman – these rituals are a code and means of communication amongst the refined class and are a way to ferret out imposters.

Unfortunately the Refined man is becoming less and less apparent in our society. Before the cultural revolution of the 60’s, the majority of men in Western civilization aspired to at least act like a Refined man. Even the poorest, most base wretches of earlier times understood that living according to the rules and principles of refinement are what created Western society and that their situation was one to be grown out of, not gluttonously reveled in. Since the Revolution we have been on a crash course towards the lowest common denominator where even the wealthiest 1% would rather act and be perceived as “an ordinary guy” than set a standard to which the rest of the world could only hope to be held accountable.

The Style

A refined style is all about luxury. From a Danger and Play perspective it incorporates both while skewing a bit towards Play. A Refined Man’s clothing never sacrifices form for function, even if that means spending lavish amounts of money and time finding clothing that will fulfill a purpose while maintaining that proper form. His clothing:

• Always assumes the highest level of formality within any given situation and appears accordingly.
• Shows off the details of quality workmanship, expensive material, and costly customizations. Even when it is understated and simple, there is nothing cheap nor commonplace about his attire.
• Is still functional and indicative of a traditionally masculine form – even if this is secondary to other aspects.
• Has acute attention to detail, indicating the same level of detail in the rest of the man’s life.

The Tricks

Focus on quality over quantity. In a consumer-based materialistic society it is easy to believe that more is always better. While the paragons of refinement from years past had vast wardrobes, they never included an item that wasn’t up to their strict standards of quality. Better and less is far superior to worse and more.

Learn the difference between formality and refinement. In our current world we tend to confuse formality and refinement. Men now are blown away by the idea that there is a large difference between a casual suit and a formal one. Imagine a scale of 1 to 10 where one is sweatpants and grease stains with ten being white tie. The majority of Western men will spend their teens and early 20’s between three and five. After they start their careers and get married they will venture between five and seven. A refined man should be living daily between six and nine. A refined dressed down is better than dressed up for the average man. Learn what can class up a rugged outfit and make a refined garment appear more casual, then apply those rules throughout your entire wardrobe.

Be extremely vigilant about daily, weekly, and monthly maintenance of your clothing. Learn how to take care of suits, shoes, shirts, etc. and do so more often than the “normal” man would think is necessary. We all know the stereotype of the suburban dad who is out washing and waxing his car every day of the summer. That same principle applies to a Refined wardrobe. This means constant shoe shines, proper seasonal storage, daily brushings, and an ever-vigilant eye for frays and stray threads.

Engage in the oxymoron of subtle flashiness. This means things like expensive watches, pinky rings, pick stitching, surgeon cuffs, split yokes, and other embellishments that are only noticed upon close inspection.

Learn who Alexander Kraft is and pay attention to the details of how he dresses, carries himself, and interacts with people around him. The man is the pinnacle of refined masculinity.

Shop custom and look for companies with longevity and heritage. You will be tempted to buy from brands like Gucci and Prada. However, the kind of unabashed embellishment is in the realm of the Rake. You will want to avoid any branding or logos and have your own personal signature on as much of your clothing as you can. Monograms are your best friend.

The Risks

More than any other type of clothing, the Refined wardrobe can appear affected and costumey. Items like the above-mentioned pinky rings, pocket watches, fur collars, and others are so foreign in our day and age that they will often wear the man instead of being worn by him. If you start to become a caricature of refinement in the place of displaying true class no one will take you seriously.

Refined style arguably requires the most consistency between the clothing and the man wearing it. Just like a scrawny man appears inconsistent when trying to look too rugged, anything but actual refinement is obviously false when dressed in a Refined style. This means you actually have to be a man among man; have the money to afford these items; be consistently in your own frame, never conceding to the frame of those around you; have a near-perfect understanding of the near-dead rules of propriety and execute them so consistently that it’s muscle memory. If you can’t do this there will be too much inconsistency and your body language/self perception will make your clothing the liar.

The Reward

You will be a polarizing force. People will love you or hate you but they will all act as if they adore you. Your enemies will be hidden and will still respectfully resent you. You will have fiercely loyal friends and followers who are anxious and happy to be a part of your world. You will be able find more success than ever in influencing people, building businesses, and approaching women. You will be socially imposing. People will joke with you, seek your approval and advice, and aspire to be like you.

Below is a gallery of photos showcasing different elements of Refine Style. Not every man in every shot is going to epitomize masculinity but all of them have elements of a Refined Style. There are also images of refinement in a man’s surroundings to give proper inspiration for allowing that refinement to influence all aesthetic aspects of your life.

For the rest of the series see:

Rugged Man

Rakish Man

Conclusion

PS – Whenever you’re ready, I have three different ways I can help you improve your style.

If you want the easiest approach that tells you exactly what you should be wearing, check out my Effortless Style program.

If you want to better understand how to use your appearance to better communicate with others and build your own confidence and mindset, pick up my book The Appearance of Power.

And lastly, if you really want to get this dialed in without going through a ton of trial and error, you may be a great fit for my 1-on-1 coaching and can schedule a call with me to learn more about it HERE.

As trustworthy, neutral, and classic as solid materials are, men like to embrace a bit of pattern in our wardrobe. From something as humble as a striped t-shirt to a gun-club sport coat, patterns span the spectrum of formality of men’s clothing and have been with us almost since the beginning.

But did you know that different patterns can have distinct visual effects on the man wearing them? A pinstriped suit will look very different on a man who’s five feet tall than one with half again his height. Because of the distinct visual effects each pattern can have on a man, there are guidelines to maximizing your overall appearance with patterned clothing.

While there are myriad pattern variations, for the sake of simplicity I’m going to conveniently place them all into three distinct categories: vertical stripes, boxes and checks, and horizontal stripes.

Vertical stripes add visual height, making the wearer look both taller and leaner. Boxes and checks add visual heft, making the wearer appear broader and stronger. Horizontal stripes add visual weight, making the wearer seem both wider and shorter.

Pretty simple right?

Well not so fast, on top of the three pattern types, the size of each pattern alters its effect. As a result, a man needs to know his overall size and proportions to take full advantage of what a good pattern can do for him. Almost just as important, these rules will also help a man know what to avoid. For the same sake of simplicity we can break up pattern sizes into three separate categories: small, medium, and large.

Small patterns should be worn by men who are small in both their proportions (size and weight). Medium sized patterns can be worn by men of all sizes. Large patterns should be worn by men who are larger in either or both of their proportions.

So now that we have our three categories, we can break them up into an understanding of what patterns should be worn by which man.

Pattern Effects

You’ll notice the effect of the pattern size is reversed with horizontal stripes. This is because the ideal shape for a man is taller than he is wide, creating an inverse relationship with horizontal stripes.

Having a good understanding of the visual effects of each pattern type and its size arms men with the ability to accomplish more visually. Are you always teased for looking scrawny? Throw on something with a box or check and add some visual heft. Feel like you’re a little short? Get some vertical stripes and stand up straight. Get called a lurp behind your back? You know what to do now.

Obviously these rules can be used to help your proportions appear “ideally masculine” but some men like the fact that they’re skinny, or fat, or short, or bulky. You can use these patterns to emphasize body peculiarities just as much as you can to minimize them.

From a scene in the movie.

PS. For updates and insights follow me on Twitter.

Read the intro to the series here.

The Rugged Man is one who is physically masculine. He bends nature to his will by means of his brute force and has a cave-man attitude that brooks no nonsense. There is nothing subtle about the rugged man and everything in his life exists for a specific, direct purpose. He is the adventurer, the mountain man, the gladiator, and the blue-collar worker.

Throughout almost every age of man, the rugged archetype has been a necessary and crucial form of masculinity. Without the infrastructure and technology we have available to us today, individual men were required to physically, forcefully, and violently bend nature to their will in order to provide for themselves and their families.

If you wanted a home, you built one; if you wanted meat, you killed it; if something threatened you, you dealt with it. There were other men for you to rely on, but the vast majority of your place in the world was carved out by you and you alone.

All men, by virtue of our biological makeup, have this element of rugged masculinity within us. Even the basement dwelling gamer has it, he simply satisfies it through virtual substitutes as opposed to real-world activities. The Rugged Man is why shows like Man vs Wild and Survivor Man fair so well. It is why football and other contact sports are so popular. It is why Everest was climbed and men skydive from the fringes of space.

The Style

A rugged style is defined by complete versatility. From a Danger and Play perspective there is all danger and no play. A Rugged Man’s clothing never sacrifices function for form, even if the function is a bit more subtle than what is readily apparent. His clothing:

• Allows for full body movement and range of motion – nothing too tight.
• Shows off his physical stature making him a more imposing foe – nothing too baggy.
• Is made of materials and weaves that can withstand daily abuse and nature’s defenses – denim, leather, tweed, and rough weaves.
• Has no excess for display or show – no excessive frills or embellishments

The Tricks

Focus on traditional clothing. Because we live in a world where the Rugged Man is not as necessary as he once was, clothing has not changed as drastically. For inspiration try to find old photos of men from the turn of the century. Don’t focus on their suits or city clothing so much as their work clothes. Most likely they will consist of jeans; cotton or tweed trousers; waffle-knit henleys; flannel shirts; wool stocking caps; heavy wool coats and jackets; leather belts, suspenders, and boots; and simple, natural colors with little-to-no patterns.

Look for military-inspired clothing. Things like field jackets, trench coats, earth-toned colors, and functions like epaulets or flapped pockets all originate with the military and give off a Rugged impression.

Look also for hunting-inspired clothing. Traditional hunting patterns like buffalo plaids, gun-club checks, and others are all rare these days and have a visual link to their heritage. Similar to military clothing, hunting gear was functional and the clothing had extra reinforcement in seams, close-able pockets (and more pockets), and thicker materials.

Don’t worry about wrinkles. Rugged clothing is casual and not appropriate for dressed-up events. This also means some of the preparations necessary for dressed up events are unnecessary  now. A pressed shirt isn’t any more functional than a wrinkled one – it just looks better. Therefore, your appearance will be more Rugged by allowing the natural wrinkles their place.

Embrace frayed edges and minor damage. These are work clothes, they don’t need to be perfect. A frayed cuff or collar gives Rugged clothing some character.

When there is major damage, patch over it or repair it rather than replacing the garment.

Shop at stores like LL Bean, Sierra Trading Post, and Duluth Trading Co. They cater to outdoors activities and traditional makes.

The Risks

More than any other type of clothing, the Rugged wardrobe has been co-opted by limp-wristed sissy boys gallivanting as men. The term “urban lumberjack” is on the rise for a reason. A generation of boys who grew up with the idea of masculinity being a bad thing are at odds with their own natures and the world they grew up in. Rather than embracing the virtues of true masculinity, they trick themselves into believing they’re men simply by dressing in a traditional manner. This frees them up to continue to act in any way but a masculine one and they can call out their manhood if it is ever questioned.

Because this is on the rise, you will be accused of being an urban lumberjack if you embrace the Rugged style too heavily. This can be mitigated by lifting heavy things and building your physique; actually participating in traditionally masculine activities like hunting, working on vehicles, and blue-collar work; having the body language that comes from knowing you are capable of being a physical threat to those around you; and being consistent with the same brook-no-nonsense attitude your clothing indicates.

The Reward

You will be a polarizing force. People will either hate you or love you. Many will call you trendy or hipster while others will see you as genuine. You will intimidate some and earn the respect of others. You will be physically imposing. People will joke with you less, socialize with you less, but depend on you more.

Below is a gallery of photos showcasing different elements of Rugged Style. Not every man in every shot is going to epitomize masculinity but all of them have elements of a Rugged Style.

Remember that Rugged, Refined, and Rakish styles are not all polarizing. You are free to incorporate an element of any or all three of this into your style as you learn to adequately express exactly who and what you are as a man.

For the rest of the series see:

Refined Man,

Rakish Man

Conclusion

PS – Whenever you’re ready, I have three different ways I can help you improve your style.

If you want the easiest approach that tells you exactly what you should be wearing, check out my Effortless Style program.

If you want to better understand how to use your appearance to better communicate with others and build your own confidence and mindset, pick up my book The Appearance of Power.

And lastly, if you really want to get this dialed in without going through a ton of trial and error, you may be a great fit for my 1-on-1 coaching and can schedule a call with me to learn more about it HERE.